Anyone been having problems snapping cvds or dogbones? Not from crashing but for no real reason.

I drive really smooth in Expert Mod so it's not like I'm tough on the car, my only thought is that it happens when running a lot of power. I'm running a 4800kv Tekin Redline Unsensored. So for the mod guys? Anyone having this problem?

Wow, snapped CVD's? Never had that. My son is pretty heavy handed with an Orion 550 in his 2WD SC10 and he hasn't snapped one before.

I run an 8.5 ballistic in mine and i havent had this problem. i run it at 100% throttle epa at an indoor high grip small indoor track and anywhere between 75-90% epa on low to medium traction outdoor tracks.

this is on a used ft sc10, and from what i can tell original cvds. the outdrives that came with it were quite worn, but i had a spare ball diff that i threw in there before i started running it.

Yup, I've snapped two dogbones and one CVA. It happens right where the shaft connects to the ball. I just put new CVAs so lets see what happens

i have snapped the ft cvd's as well and have since went to the strc big bone shafts. much better design and heavy duty! haven't had any problems yet running mod class with them.

Could it be an issue with your slipper a little to tight? Im not running Mod any longer and am not having that problem. Just a thought?

I've heard of some aftermarket arms causing issues with binding at the C clamp, do you run stock arms?

If I were you I would check out your shock travel. If you are noticing them break on the compression stroke, do you have your shock ends unthreaded or not threaded on the shaft all the way? If you have too much up-travel the driveline could be binding against the outdrive ID then being pushed into the slot as it rotates around. If this happens it will snap a driveline. Same can be said for too much down travel (dropping into the outdrive slot). SO... check your shock travel.

Thanks for all the replies! I run the AE FT arms on all four corners. I have to check the threads on the shock shaft. I believe I have it tightened to where you can't see thread anymore, and am running two limiters. I'll check tomorrow

So Cal, I'm going to assume that your out drives are fairly fresh? If they're worn really bad they will snap the dog bone end like nothing but again you don't seem like the type of guy to run stuff that clapped out. Other than really worn out drives I've never seen a bone snap under normal conditions, even with big power.

good morning gents
the Super G finally got some track time last night after a month of rain and we found out this stuff of steering a little truck around a track ain't as easy as it looks!! my hat's off to you guys that rip it lap after lap!
with a little time on the truck i'm wondering (i'm the crew chief after all) what i should be planning to keep things <\turning/> . i hosed it off one time after the G went collecting grass trimmings in the back yard but used compressed air last night and liked that a lot better. other than keeping it clean, are there wear points that need lube on a regular basis? i keep reading your posts each day and we're learning a lot. saw some folks at the track last night and we picked up some pointers there as well.
hopefully we'll be at the starting line soon enough and maybe even get a lap in without skipping/flipping/tumbling across the barriers.
Thanks!
Dad o' G

Lol hopefully you didn't see my signature

But I do keep out drives fresh. I'm thinking it may have been a fluke that I had them go or something was binding that I didn't realize. I'm keeping an eye on it now that everything is all fresh

Anyone running 3/1 pistons on there truck,I'm running 2/2 now,my t4 was good with 3/1 so I'm just curious to some input.my track is pretty smooth wett indoor clay with some tight stuff with some good jumps,but nothing to big

This is what I run..

Front: 3/35W/RD...Rear: 1/35W/GRN

Found that to be the best. I haven't messed with anything really since then, I want to shave about a half second so I might be changing things up soon though.

Im running RPM Arms on the front. With the RPM chassis brace and RPM Front Bulkhead and RPM Front bumper. If you wanna run RPM Arms you have to get the GT2 hinge pins, because on the package it says so. Most people at my track are running thier SC10's this way. Especially on big 8th scale tracks,
with large jumps. I can see running RPM Arms on the front just ive never broke
a stock rear A-arm yet. And I got several weekends on my truck.
My truck is a tank and I like it this way, especially in mod class.
A little bit of extra protection for the front always helps.
My Arms didnt bind after I installed them, so if yours are binding then you did something wrong.