a locked slipper does no good , makes driving the truck way less forgiving and you will only saw off the corner pipes due to sudden weight transfer to ft end ...



typical mistake I see all the time

Thanks.

Do you mean it should raise and then begin to slip/spin?

Yes , when testing if the truck just wheelies and no slipper slipping ?

means the slipper is locked up .


If you lock it up , traction will be limited due to extra wheel spin, steering on power will suffer and mass steering off power will only make entering the turn difficult ...


Too loose is not good either ....


Will not clear the jumps and acceleration will suffer......

WOW, that beaver joke sailed clearly right over your head

Which ever came on the truck in the RS RTR package. I will have to check when I get home tonight. -Just checked, 3.5 block and not sure on the hub's It doesn't list the deg.

3oz in the rear behind the battery under the large foam lock. battery is basically moved forward.

Indoor Clay. traction is very different though out the night depending on when and how much they water it.

ESC is a CC Sidewinder. No Frequency control that I know of in the SW. Or have seen. I am running 17/87 temp is at 130 after a 5min heat no timing.


Mostly trying to get it dialed in a little better for the 5 more races we have.I am switching to ether a Noval Pro ESC/Ballistic 13.5T or a Viper R/C VTX10/VST 13.5T before next series when I move to Prolite.

Camber links are what came in the kit already. Looks to be inner /center or inner/inner from what the pic shows on my phone for the manual.

You def need to consider setting up the Castle TC, it'll smooth out that brute power that motor has and make it much more drivable. Start with #2 or #3 and go from there, you notice a lot less power but give it a chance your lap times will improve.

Your hubs are 0 degree from the stock kit. If you can add 0.5 deg hubs it would help forward traction even on clay.

Your weight addition Should be perfect.

I would drop to 16 to manage the speed or use exp on the ESC or radio.

I would recommend the Havoc Pro SC/Ballistic 13.5 combo. If you are allowed to run timing you can with that ESC and the ballistic is fantastic. I have run 17.5, 13.5 and 8.5 on grippy clay and they all had plenty of power for the class I was in. I would say the 8.5 was a hand full.

The kit set-up shows the longest rear camber link with inside center and outside hub. This helps reduce camber rate upon acceleration keeping the tire virticle and therefore providing the best traction possible. Now what do you have fro anti squat? 1 deg or 2 deg. the Kit set-up shows 2 deg which is what you want.

I hope I have helped. You may want to tone down the performance with the radio or ESC. I use a significant EXP onthe throttle to provide more range of authority in lower speeds. Then you can always pull the trigger for the top speed.

You have helped a bunch,
The anti squat is 2degs.
My radio does not have exp just EPA. I had to turn down the EPA on the 4x4 for the brakes so it stopped doing stoppies when I would late brake a few spots.
our 13.5T class does not allow ESC timing but they do for motor timing I am told.

We have a race again tomorrow. So far I am thinking of redoing the throttle curve and or taking the power out put down to 80% with the castle link.

and Bondonutz. Castle TC? as in Traction control? I am not sure the SW has that unless you mean the punch control?

If you have Castle link then you should use the Traction control features to help the low speed wheel spin. This is like an electronics slipper clutch. In the Novak and Tekin world this is often called current limiting. The Pros don't use it much cause they have supper finger control. Us not-so-Pro drivers need some help. I have used the current limiting and it really can help reduce low speed wheel spin (that out of control slide out that you mentioned). I would also make your throttle curve concave. Flatten it out until more than half speed and then ramp it up fast. This helps mid-field control a ton. I have programmed an "S" curve into my Kinetics when I ran them.

My buddy has the Concave throttle curve and he said it seemed to help him out the most. I will try that. and look into the "Punch control" on the castle link

Waiting for a few phone calls back for a price on a Novak setup. everyone seems to be out of stock.

ShortCourseOnly

I noticed your sig. I run the same esc/motor combos you run on my FT SC10 and 4X4 and wanted to ask you about your setup on the FT SC10. I was running the 10.5 ballistic in my sc10 but need to go to the 17.5 no timing class (only motor timing allowed)as I'm not good/fast enough for the mod racing class. I have been running no esc timing or motor timing. Left the motor at stock 30* and geared 29/75 coming off track after 6-7min at around 160* temp. But I just can't keep up with the guys running 17.5 with motor timing. I tried playing with motor timing bumping motor 5* to 35* and gearing 28/81 as suggested by another racer running another brand esc/motor combo. I came off the track after 5 min run fried at 210*. Motor wasted. Rebuild my 17.5 new again but am weary of timing and what gearing. Any suggestions would be appreciated it. Or anyone running Novak Havoc Pro SC/17.5 Ballistic combo. Thanks in advance.


I run on clay indoor track about 6900 sq ft.- West Coast RC

I run my 17.5 sc10 always geared with a 75 spur, and run anywhere between 26-28T pinions and 30-45deg motor endbell timing on my ballistic. depends on the track.

you just have to make sure you temp often and you can avoid frying the motor again. start low.

Thanks for the input. I will try your suggestion feeling good that you are running the same motor. I have an idea of where to start. Thanks.

i had the same ESC as you for months (recently switched all my ESCs to Tekin) and always ran 75/26 with no issues. it would definitely run hot if i went beyond 8 mins though, however 8 mins is all you need for most mains.

i did run 75/28 on it when i went to a very large outdoor track, no heat problems either.

edit: currently i am at 75/28 at stock (30deg) timing on the can. my last run was 2 weeks ago in a smallish indoor track and my temps were perfect. it did run hot during one practice run but im pretty sure i went beyond the 8 min mark

im running the same setup pretty much, cept my motor is made by bonzai. I run 28/75 and the timing set to 30 degrees via the ESC. I run anywhere from 140-150F after a 6-7min heat.

I ried 24-25 pinion, but didnt seem fast enough for the straight-a-way.