the 4 screws screw into the top plate. I thought the same till i went to fix it and was mad at myself lol

Alright so the question I asked way back in the thread was only half answered so will ask the second part again. I bought the brushed rtr sc10and the track I will be running on in the winter doesn't have any jumps yet. I am curious if the motor will hold up to the carpeted track and if the stock truck can take the punishment that the trucks here seem to regularly take from being collided with.

You should not have any problems with the durability of the truck, the only thing I would do is replace the ball cups as the ones that come on the RTR are very cheap. The brushed motors that come in the RTR's are kinda hit and miss, I had one that lasted forever on a big jump dirt track, my buddies crapped out after two weeks. The biggest thing you need to watch out for is temp because on carpet you will have really good traction and that will put more stress on the motor. You may be able to gear it down a bit depending on the size of your track to put less strain on the motor. IF you do end up needing a new motor, get a traxxas 12T Titan. They are cheap, have plenty of power and usually last a long time if you break them in. Hope that helps!

idk what your smoking but the 12t titan has the highest replacement rate possible

lol, I thought he meant the hingepin brace that screws into the bulkhead. I still get a kick out of how AE made the alloy version of the brace a hopup when the B4 / T4 came out. Especially when the metal version of the hingepin brace came on the T3 out of the box.

so i took the 10.5 to practice tonight.
gearing 84/20
boost at 35

truck consistently came off at less than 110. I geared it conservatively because i had stock tires on. but this sunday i plan on a 22 pinion. with barcodes on the rear and goosebumps up front

EDIT: it ran like a bat out of...

Got an SC10 Factory Team kit for Christmas. Before I start putting it together does anyone have any tips? I have built many airplanes but never put an RC car together. I am upgrading from a Slash with an SCRT LCG chassis.

I was talking about the tiny screws that go into here:

I tried some strips of paper but, they backed out as soon as the track got rough. I guess I will try a longer screw before I just buy some new parts.

I second that post Does anyone have any tips about putting together the FT SC10? ... I ordered mine and it should be here on Friday, cant wait!

@Diesel48, I would post you two good links that were sent to me, but I don't have the ability to by the rctech for some reason... so if you look over the previous 4-5 pages of this thread, you will find two awesome links that were posted for me by other members on here. They are both in regards to setting up and wearing in your ball differentials and also sanding down your diff. rings, and they will surely come in handy when building your FT kit. Hope this helps a little

Ohh... and if you haven't yet checked it out, go to teamsc10.com .... it's an awesome source of SC10 info for people just getting into SC10's.. like myself.

Just follow the instructions. They are pretty good. I would toss the stock front tires for some better ones depending on if you are racing or not. The kit set-up is even pretty good as a starting point.

Take your time breaking in your diff. I'm assuming you have not built a ball diff before. Check out Youtube for some ball diff break in vids. Bfast has some good tips and vids. If you don't break in your diff correctly it will not last long and won't work well. The diff is a great tuning aide to get the vehicle to corner correctly.

When you build your shocks, make sure to get the rebound of the shock shaft the same on all 4 shocks. This is pretty easy with the bleed screw on the V2 shocks. Take your time and do it right.

The only thing I updated right away on my truck was the stock ball cups. I went with RPM cups. The stockers wear quickly and begin to pop off.

Enjoy the build! It goes together very easily if you follow the directions closely. Good luck!

Thanks for the tips guys. What about switching the to Hex's right away? Is this something that is worth doing or just keeping the stock setup as is. I have a Savox SC-1258TG servo on the way. Does anyone now what spacer and servo arm to use for this?

BTW- a 7700kV motor is just a bit too much for the SC10. Don't ask me how I know this.

i got one for x-mas as well and instantly went to hex. i believe the savox uses a futaba spline.

which hex kit did you use? Is there a kit that comes with all the parts you need?

thats what I thought initially. You can try longer screws for sure or a shoe goo, or a combo of both. If you can fit screws that are a bit bigger that my help too. If it is an issue on your track of those screws backing out, etc, you could just do an alloy bulkhead. Never did that on the AE cars, but the Academy stuff I ran came stock for the buggy at least with the alloy bulkhead so you didn't need the alloy front hingepin brace.

Here is the part number for the AE hexes:

ASC9883

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBKEJ&P=7


Are you wanting to do hexes for the fronts too?

Me personally I ordered the hexes for the rear, the front bearing setup I don't have a problem with, and the steering knuckles are cheaper too.