Thanks bud, but I thought you meant you were cutting the bumper, not the actual body. I'm glad you took the pic, I appreciate it.

Most of the Losi TEN-SCTE drivers trim the actual bumper in the rear and leave the middle section so the bumper doesn't cut into the body and the body can be left intact. You kinda have to if you go to races that abide by ROAR rules, and their stupid rear tail light rule.

I've tried both the associated and proline hex front wheel conversions and I like the proline better because I can raise or lower the axle for more tuning options. Yes there is some slop, but I think it's more the bearings than the spindle itself.

I got some questions for those guys who know more about suspension

I had a race last night. 2wd ran great. I did notice a few things.
Current setup is
Castle 3800kv 18T pinion. throttle set at 100% brake at 60% with 100% EPA ( i know I need to adjust this)
Threaded Shocks, 30wt rear/ 35 wt front
Rear green springs, Front red springs.
HD slipper pads. hardly any slip.
gridiron rear tires
CVA axles.

-1 front camber -1 rear camber. -.5 front tow. stock tear hubs
It has great corner speed and traction I am just getting nothing going straight. It just seems to lift the rear end and kill the tires. and when it does get going and any speed it slides everywhere.

I also noticed in a right hand sharp turn it will pick the right rear wheel up during braking. I can see it lock and not touch the ground.

any thoughts?

That's the next thing im gonna get for mine. My slash has one
and wish my SC10 did. Did you have to drill a few holes in your chassis?

This may sound insane but the 1410/3800 4 pole might just be to much motor for the light weight 2wd trucks ?
I have the 1410 in my 6+lb Losi SCTE 4wd and its has ungodly power on 2s so I can only imagine what it'll do in a much lighter platfom IE Torque steer ??

sounds like you have the slipper locked up , check it out ..

It is tight. I like it tight. I hate slip. most of the turns on the track I race on is a tight. turn-jump style track. I like the no slip to get you over the jumps out of the turns even if you take a inside line.

I may try to just reduce the throttle to 80% and see how it handles. after than and May try 32.5wt in the rear shocks to help keep the wheel down when turning.

100% possible. It makes my SC10 4x4 fly.

Tight is bad , mass tire spin & off power weight transfer severe.

Basically does what your problem is about...

also



Helps makes the diff last way longer.


If you loosen you will go way faster ....

about how loose should the slipper be? I was looking for info on line on how adjust it, but mostly just shows how you physically turn the screw (like we need a guide for that haha). Is there some time of system used to adjust how much tension to screw down to?

Hold both tires tight and blimp the throttle.

ft of truck should rise just a inch or two no more ....

I don't see any rear toe in your specifications. I use 0.5 degree rear hubs and they improve forward traction a lot. I use the 3.5 block and 0.5 at the hubs.

Also, were is your battery and what added weight do you have? With you set-up you should have your battery one pad back from the front postion AND add 3 oz. to the rear of the battery tray. This makes a huge difference.

Also what is the track surface like? What rear camber link length did you use?

That is a lot of motor for this chassis and loosening the slipper can help a little. I would also look at end point and punch settings. Do you have any kind of throttle frequency control to smooth out the throttle? Also you could drop teeth on your pinion. I am assuming you are running 18/87 now. Why not 15/87 or 16/87? It would increase low end torque and limit top speed allowing you to keep your EPA at 100% and then tune your punch control. What ESC are you using?

Let us clarify that what it is that's tight determins weither it's bad or not?

+1 on this. I also will punch the throttle on the track surface and listen for the noise of the slipper. It should slip for at least 2 feet. If not then you are too tight.

I think the bumper actually helps keep the body from trashing out. My Jammin just tears out the rear end of the bodies so fast cause it flexes enough to contact the rear wheel. I always expect the rear end to tatter fairly fast. The SC10 never had so much issue for me.

I like the mud flaps too. I don't plan to cut my rear bumper so I can add the mud flaps back in for the next race!