I see what your talking about. Yes there is alittle play but it shouldn't affect the drive. You can always put a small shim between block and your eclip.

I was just wondering how much grease do you put in the diff, do you pack it or do you just put enough to coat the gears?

i think ive got an outdrive catching on an a arm thats why my truck isnt rolling freely. may need to dremel the arm alittle. anybody else had this?

Yes, it's a 13.5 brushless and I think 10.5 will be waaaaay too fast.
Thanks, I think this might be just what I need for my driving style.
This hype is more about the type of racing and the scale look and handling than the pure race performance of the trucks cuz they don't have that going for them. If you haven't already raced the Slashes, you're missin out on some simple but serious fun.
Saw and answered your post the other day, yes the axels can hit the arms and may need to have material removed to clear.

I'm assuming the servo saver assembly is the same for the T4 and the SC10. I managed to shorten a couple of Slash wheel hub pins to replace the missing pins that hold the outdrives in the diff gear assembly. The diff works perfectly and is very smooth, so the only thing left is to replace the stripped servo saver. Hopefully it's the same as the T4 and one of the local shops has them in stock. I'll definitely pre thread it without the spring in it this time.

Well i ran my SC10 yesterday and it definitely needs a lot of tuning to get it right. The biggest mistake I made was to run the AKA inserts! BIG MISTAKE! The track I run on (NorCal Hobbies) sounds exactly like yours. The inserts are way to hard for the rear of the truck. I can not even come close to hitting 3/4 throttle by the end of the straight without the rear coming around on me. Thats with my Tekin RS tuned to the lowest I can tune it. I added 1oz in the front and 1oz to the rear and that helped a bit. I lowered the front ride height and raised the rear and that helped too. 1 degree of camber front and rear and camber links are set to the longest settings in the rear.

The next biggest thing to work on is the diff. Black grease is a little to thin IMO. I am gonna try 10k. One of our track pros noticed that any time I tried to give it some power in the straight, 1 tire would balloon up and steer the truck.

Second. These trucks are hard to drive in any wind other then none at all. No amount of brake could keep the front down with a little bit of a breeze. It effected my slash too but not even close to how bad it effected the SC10. I am thinking maybe a piece of lexan sheet under the front bumper to keep it from the body from being a parachute. Anyone have other ideas?

All in all, these trucks are a blast to drive after driving a slash. Its nice to have some power. Sorry for the long post.

You could try putting some vent holes in the body to let the air pass thru.I know the body may be too pretty for that but an idea.

These things are pretty fast with just a 13.5 and they act like they are just too light to stick to the ground.

I'm considering even more weight or going really light on the suspension stuff.
Ultra light oil and springs, go so far as to make it bicycle in the turns then bring it back to more firm from there.

Trying to figure out how to beat down the AKA foams like an 8th scale would do after a set or two of tires, that is supposed to be the hot ticket or maybe a new set of 8th foams that start out a little softer but stiffer than the stockers.

A good heavy coat should be enough. I wouldn't pack it.

I think a big lipo would help. Like a 8k SMC

i ran mine today and it is very assy under any kinda power. Very hard to power slide cause it just comes around. Im gonna put the lower shock mounts in the outer holes instead of the inners. Where you guys running yours? Im also changing the front shocks to 45 weight. I may also go with the proline switch tires like I did on my slash. I like them allot.
My slash feels allot more stable but until I swap tires I wont know exactly why. Ive also had allot more time with the slash.
Whats everyone opinion on the rear sway bar for the t4? I almost think it might be bad to stiffen the rear anymore then what it is now.

I think grease in the diff is the way to go though. With the rear trying to come around on power a stiffer diff will only make it worse.
also the 4600 mamba with the 18 pinion feels pretty good. I would think its somewhere around 35-36 MPH.

ive got ae 2k in my diff havent run it yet but thinner diff oils would probley work ok i definetly wouldnt try 10k man i would think that thick fluid wouls make this little diff a locker. heck i never ran 10k in my 1/8th scale dont see tryin it on a 10th scale. i watched one run yesterday at my track and despite my track being kinda loose the sc10 didnt look very good with the stock set up on it. the rear end just wanted to step out and it didnt wanna turn very well. a longer camber link is definetly a must but for my track its gonna need some tuning.

I'm extremely frustrated with my SC10 right now. The kit was missing parts, my damn sensor cable is too short to reach the motor, you can't mount the esc far back enough, and for the brief second I did drive it across my living room floor, the transmission/diff sounded so horrible, I am about to just give up on this thing.

Hey Dragondude,
I had the same feeling about this truck.
Very hard to drive, ass end coming around and couldn't touch the throttle anytime.

Definitely do the long camber link in the rear. Night and day.

Get the ride height perfect. WITH the body on, big difference.

ADD WEIGHT. Front, front of battery box and rear of chassis. And again get the ride height perfect.

I ran without the weight in the rear and it was good but still "assy", then I added the weight in the rear and it got pretty planted.

I'm punching this thing everywhere, almost.

I'm gonna do the 30 degree caster blocks for more off power steering and less on power steering in hopes it will cure the assyness.

Well mine is done. on the steering rack issues. first thread the bolt in the servo saver then back out and install spring...This is what i have always done on my asso cars. I also added a little more weight then i have been reading so far. 2.5 ounces in rear and 2 oz in front. I am also running 7000 weight diff fluid... And every factory team part. And i have to say that my trick slash couldnt hold a candle to this thing. very planted, easy to drive, takes the rough, fly's nice, hands down way better truck.. IMO...