I think they match up perfectly. Just the holes have to be reamed a little bigger for the 4wd

SC10 is nitro? :)

yes, one body will fit both using the same holes.

I knew the build was going too smoothly overall. Okay next question

One of the screw that hold the motor guard to the transmission doesn't want to go all the way in (the other went fine) and I've slightly stripped the head. Is this okay or will that screw not being all the way in be a big deal?

Thanks as always

top or bottom? don't have a truck in front of me. Are you sure it's the right length? should be fine until you can replace it. If it's in the bottom I would just leave it out so it's not hanging down scraping the ground..

Or remove the washer they have and put a ca lock on it the other side.

I'm hoping to get a factory team kit but not sure what additional parts I need.

Are there any additional hop-ups I should invest in?

Also, what spare parts should I stock up on?


Any advice helps,
Thanks.

Hey guys Im fairly new to the sc world, I finally got my truck where I wanted it as far ad handling wise. I know this question has popped up like 25 times but it takes way to long to read every post.
But should I also run sway bars? Or do you think
It's a waist of money?

Purchased an FTSC10, just about completed with assembly and had a few question.

*The rear shocks springs seem to really rub/bind on the body. The springs themselves appear to be spun correctly and the threaded collar and bottom spring retainer are aligned correctly. Anyone else experiencing this and have a 'fix' or workaround?

*I haven't glued up the tires yet and given the new hex hub conversion kits, I'm kind of glad I haven't. Does anyone know if the 9110(1-3) wheels are the same hex size and off-set as any existing wheels out there (i.e. compatible with)? Ideally I would like to go with a flourescent yellow or all-white wheel, something not currently offered in the aforementioned range of wheels.

depends on the surface, high bite track with little to no bumps = will benefit if you have sway bars.

Yeah the track I drive has huge bumps and jumps. It's basically a 1/8th scale track. So looks like they wouldn't benefit me at all. Thanks for
The tip!

The problem is where the end of the spring is wound, it doesn't sit square on the seat. Mark the side that hits with a sharpie and bend the bottom coil slightly with a large pair of needlenose pliers on the other side to square it.

I use a set of duck bill pliers similar these:

http://www.toolrage.com/ProdImages/SKT-17828.jpg

David Mayhew remarked when he saw them "That's the biggest pair of pliers I've ever seen anyone use on an RC car!" Which is true, but they are totally dialed for prying off rod ends without totally molesting the plastic, and squaring springs. The jaws are slimmer than conventional needle nose pliers, and they are wider giving more surface area to bend stuff.

SCT StocK
 

My son and I want to race stock SC10 with 17.5 motors. We have a pretty good setup but still lacking on the motor end. Could some please tell me what the best motor, esc, and battery would be to keep us up with everyone else. At this time people seem to just pull away from us.

Mike

I run a Novak 17.5 Ballistic Spec geared at 75/26. I recommend using a Tekin RS speedo. Batteries aren't really that important for this application and I've run 25C batteries with no problem (our old track had a 25C limit for the 17.5 Spec class).

I have 2 25C SMC Lightning Volts batteries if you're interested, cheap.

Edit: You'll find gearing to be very important in these spec classes. 75/26 is gearing to its limits and you have to watch your runtime. Go beyond a duration of a qual or main and you will overheat.

That's it in a nutshell. Ask at your local track, too. Likely you'll find the same thing. Most guys are gearing right to the thermal limit by the end of the qual/main.

I like the Tekin speed controls, too. For some reason, even in blinky, they seem to run just about any motor with a given gear ratio a little bit cooler than just about any other esc. They've got great breaks, too, but they're very punchy. Smooth is not a word used when refering to Tekin power delivery. Tunability and durability, are, though. Heck, even if you're just running blinky, it's worth it. Plus, it holds it's resale value VERY well.

Battery wise, check out the GensAce 2S 40C. AMAZING price, rock solid, and perform better than my Venom batteries, hands down!

Motors....well, that's a Ford/Chevy/Dodge debate. They all run well, and can all be tuned. If I were buying a new 17.5 to run spec in a truck, I'd run one of the RevTechs (orange motors) direct from Fantom with a standard rotor (they call 'em APEX, but it's assembled and tested to not be a dud before shipping). A close second would be a Fantom Duo3 (black motors) with a standard rotor (they call 'em ION3. Same deal as the APEX on assembly and testing). Fantom motors are cheaper than their original brand counterparts (go figure!), and since the bushed days, I've never had a bad one. Can't say that about the original manufacturer, though.