Anyone else notice that the ball diffs on the FT make a nasty clicking sound? Have pulled down the transmission, checked all the gears, rebuilt the ball diff with a new set of diff balls and thrust bearing, even put in new CVD's

Still clicks

Check your idler and the bearings.

almost all the 3rd party parts are junk

Idler is brand new, all bearings were cleaned and relubed and spin freely, as soon as I get a rough spot on a bearing I replace it.

Then keep running it until whatever's making noise breaks

I have recently replaced both my idler and top shaft. The teeth looked good but there was some wear that caused clicking. I had replaced the idle first but still clicked. The top shaft was the key after that.

Love my ball diff.

Would you happen to have a part number mate?

Alternatively, would upgrading to V2 shocks be worth it? I know you still need to be very careful when rebuilding them to prevent leaking though.

To piggyback on that, is there a notable performance difference between
v1 to v2 shocks?

About the same performance , the big difference is the V2 is much easier to assemble...

Have not read anyone converting to the hexes for the axels. Sorry if I missed it.
Is converting a good idea or not?
Thanks and God Bless

Yes it's a great thing to do but wait for AE to get the parts out from their SC10 RS. Then you will have the best fit of parts.

Has anyone seen a release date on the SC10 RS ????

I predict the Oriline Pro Trac conversion for the SC10 and the new SC10 hexes (same offset) will eventually be the standard for SC racing, like standard buggy wheels.

Hemi, what buggy wheels do you consider standard?

anyone have a spare KIT manual that you have laying around?

i seemed to have lost mine and while PFDs are great, sometimes you are in the middle of no where and need a manual...

thanks..