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Originally Posted by ffpm46
(Post 8519611)
What are you guys driving tire wise, front and back for lets say a small technical track with lots of traction?
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 8513826)
No
There is a male & female out drive |
Originally Posted by Sprikler
(Post 8522538)
If that was the case they would they not have different part numbers. I am a dumby when it comes to the 1/10 scale stuff and the electric stuff. I will take it apart tonight and rebuild it again. I appreciate the help fellas!!!
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Just picked up a used SC10 roller.
Looking to upgrade it. RPM stuff on my list already. Was wondering what shocks/springs worked good on this ? |
Originally Posted by Firefox
(Post 8522989)
Just picked up a used SC10 roller.
Looking to upgrade it. RPM stuff on my list already. Was wondering what shocks/springs worked good on this ? |
Originally Posted by Sprikler
(Post 8522538)
If that was the case they would they not have different part numbers. I am a dumby when it comes to the 1/10 scale stuff and the electric stuff. I will take it apart tonight and rebuild it again. I appreciate the help fellas!!!
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Originally Posted by ffpm46
(Post 8519611)
What are you guys driving tire wise, front and back for lets say a small technical track with lots of traction?
Ive heard people say Caliburs and Barcodes both work well on clay.:nod: |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 8523575)
same part # cept left & right out-drive printed on the part tag instead..
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on the slipper does the spring normally need compressed all the way? basically i have to have it all the way tight/compressed so it does not slip too much. i tried the new pads and didn't help much. i've tied new pads, cleaned disks with alcohol and de glazed them but still slips way too much unless i have the spring almost all the way compressed. this is with the old original spring too and not the new v2 spring.
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Originally Posted by sc10rr
(Post 8526425)
on the slipper does the spring normally need compressed all the way? basically i have to have it all the way tight/compressed so it does not slip too much. i tried the new pads and didn't help much. i've tied new pads, cleaned disks with alcohol and de glazed them but still slips way too much unless i have the spring almost all the way compressed. this is with the old original spring too and not the new v2 spring.
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Originally Posted by sc10rr
(Post 8526425)
on the slipper does the spring normally need compressed all the way? basically i have to have it all the way tight/compressed so it does not slip too much. i tried the new pads and didn't help much. i've tied new pads, cleaned disks with alcohol and de glazed them but still slips way too much unless i have the spring almost all the way compressed. this is with the old original spring too and not the new v2 spring.
Hold both wheels and blip throttle, wheels should only lift about 3 in... Old slipper spring had to be tighten almost all the way , V2 slipper lock nut is usually about two or three threads past on top shaft... |
i'll try a new spring but i do have the new v2 spring but it wont seat on the old sliper disks so im guessing i need the new v2 disks as well for that spring to work.
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Are the RPM "Heavy Duty Rod Ends 4-40" the correct ones for the SC10 ?
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...hires/7337.htm http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...c/SC_Parts.htm thanks |
Originally Posted by sc10rr
(Post 8527299)
i'll try a new spring but i do have the new v2 spring but it wont seat on the old sliper disks so im guessing i need the new v2 disks as well for that spring to work.
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Originally Posted by Firefox
(Post 8527497)
Are the RPM "Heavy Duty Rod Ends 4-40" the correct ones for the SC10 ?
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...hires/7337.htm http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...c/SC_Parts.htm thanks |
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