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Need some setup help
Novak 10.5 87-19 gearing 5000mah 35c all the way back ball diffw/ lub 1/8 turn loose slipper 6-7 threads showing any less and lose power truck is set low with stock springs oil 2 med clips outside hole tires stright up/down, proline bow tie m3 a little worn front toe out Track OCRC Hard packed clay Truck is good for jumps, tight turns great but sweeper turn wide turns or the stright it wants to drift out, Can only get about 1/2 throttle for stright. Any help would be great! |
4WP,
Get the rear wheels toed in, that is a huge improvement on the SC10. Use one of the rear toe in setups from this thread. I use Losi hubs, by far the easiest to get done. Look back a few pages for everything you need. Get one of the dialed setups from inside these pages too. The fastest guys at OCRC have listed everything you need to know. Stock springs and oil is NOT the hot ticket. Get searchin, it will payoff bigtime. |
Originally Posted by 4WPSC10
(Post 6577284)
Need some setup help
Novak 10.5 87-19 gearing 5000mah 35c all the way back ball diffw/ lub 1/8 turn loose slipper 6-7 threads showing any less and lose power truck is set low with stock springs oil 2 med clips outside hole tires stright up/down, proline bow tie m3 a little worn front toe out Track OCRC Hard packed clay Truck is good for jumps, tight turns great but sweeper turn wide turns or the stright it wants to drift out, Can only get about 1/2 throttle for stright. Any help would be great! How do you like that 10.5? I am running stock class, but seems too slow now and also not as competitive as open SC. I am thinking either 13.5 or 10.5. Any thoughts? |
I LOVE 10.5, when I was choosing I figured hey i can always turn it down with the 13.5 if its not enough ooo well no going up. Do it right the first time plus with OCRC adding 35ft its gonna come in handy. Raced a Blitz today and on the straight not even full throttle had 2 lenghts.
Ill try some things not one to copy set ups since everyone drives different, I love a loose car not out of control HAHA Thx and see you guys at the track I normally have either the 4wheelparts or K&N body. |
Used my SC10 for the first time today, this things rips with the mamba in it, pulls wheelies at top speed! its great fun, handling is very realistic which makes it good fun trying to keep it on all fours. Can anyone recommend a ratio for a mamba 6900, iv got the 87 spur with a 19 pinion but i think the motors getting a bit hot. Also anyone else find that the dogbones seem to be a tad short? one of mine was half hanging out today, thought i stripped the spur but found that as the axle was turning one side of the dogbone pin would stay in the outdrive but the other would grind on the arm.
Thanks for the help so far! |
Add another red oring to which ever drive cup you need and it will keep the dog bone in place.
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Originally Posted by Fast XXXS
(Post 6578144)
Used my SC10 for the first time today, this things rips with the mamba in it, pulls wheelies at top speed! its great fun, handling is very realistic which makes it good fun trying to keep it on all fours. Can anyone recommend a ratio for a mamba 6900, iv got the 87 spur with a 19 pinion but i think the motors getting a bit hot. Also anyone else find that the dogbones seem to be a tad short? one of mine was half hanging out today, thought i stripped the spur but found that as the axle was turning one side of the dogbone pin would stay in the outdrive but the other would grind on the arm.
Thanks for the help so far! the 6900 is about a 6turn its a bit much for a sc10 but well.. 14 15 or 16/87 should get your temps down. |
Originally Posted by JPMSRacing
(Post 6577030)
I see a rear sway bar, what effect does it have on this truck??? Does it decrease rear traction and make the rear slide, or does it decrease the chassis roll enough to reduce the steering?
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Originally Posted by crazysavage
(Post 6579385)
The rear sway bar will decrease roll in the rear but allow more weight to transfer to the front, that will drive the front outside tire into the ground quicker and harder as you start your turn and it will slow down the lifting effect on the front end when you hit the gas and all this together will increase initial turn in and improve steering as you get on the gas. Dial it in right and use right,you will decrease your lap times.
After my experience with the SC10 I can't imagine trading rear grip for front with a rear bar? |
Originally Posted by crazysavage
(Post 6579385)
The rear sway bar will decrease roll in the rear but allow more weight to transfer to the front, that will drive the front outside tire into the ground quicker and harder as you start your turn and it will slow down the lifting effect on the front end when you hit the gas and all this together will increase initial turn in and improve steering as you get on the gas. Dial it in right and use right,you will decrease your lap times.
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Originally Posted by Laguna_Dude
(Post 6580915)
I agree. And for the SC10 (vs. my T4 which lost rear side grip), it actually increased rear side and forward grip. Was able to do controlled slides and get on the gas earlier in turns. Keeps that rear inner tire on the ground. Also, keeps body-roll to minimum and keep it responsive and in control at all times. It was one of the best mods I've done. And for $9, you really do see a big benefit. Next would be the 1-degree rear hubs and better tires.
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2 Attachment(s)
I had alot of requests for more chassis braces. I made another batch and are now available.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...skidplate.html |
i too would like the part #'s for the rear sway bar PLEASE!!!!
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9635 B4 / T4 Sway Bar Kit
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Originally Posted by trx450racer174
(Post 6578819)
Add another red oring to which ever drive cup you need and it will keep the dog bone in place.
Smokinu- Thanks for that, ill have to go get some more pinions. Yes the 6900 is probably to much but its great fun to drive. I am only bashing, open grass fields. |
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