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Old 06-18-2009 | 10:05 PM
  #1681  
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Originally Posted by BuggyKing
hey Jake I like those Bowties. They work good.

chea..cough, cough, cheat..cough, cheaters.
Now no more tire excuses?
Maybe now I'll have an excuse, I won't have cheater tires in the stock class.
Oh, wait.
Now you'll have to run in the Mod class with all the mondo powered, psycho trucks. Put yer helmet on, it's gonna be a rough ride.
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Old 06-18-2009 | 10:12 PM
  #1682  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
chea..cough, cough, cheat..cough, cheaters.
Now no more tire excuses?
Maybe now I'll have an excuse, I won't have cheater tires in the stock class.
Oh, wait.
Now you'll have to run in the Mod class with all the mondo powered, psycho trucks. Put yer helmet on, it's gonna be a rough ride.
Nahh I just run the stockers for racing. Wink Wink Wink. You can run them to. Im just tired of running a crap tire.
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Old 06-18-2009 | 10:23 PM
  #1683  
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Originally Posted by KidAgain
The upgrades are the CVD's but there not cheap and not foolproof.

CVD
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/item_photos/7383.jpg

Dogbone
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/item_photos/7361.jpg
thnx man where can i get these..
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Old 06-19-2009 | 06:42 AM
  #1684  
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Default epic rims

Has anyone used the proline epic front rim? If so , how did you mod it? Just counterbore it for one bearing or two?
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Old 06-19-2009 | 06:50 AM
  #1685  
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Originally Posted by rapster402
i have tried running slash beadlocks on the sc10 and as stated the rears work with hexes, but on the front, the bearings and axle arnt your only issue..the offset is completely wrong and the tyres hang out the gaurds about 10mm.. or 3/8 to you guys. even trying the slash rear wheels didnt fix the track issue. would need to run shorter arms... not worth the fuck around. they do look alot better though.. give it time, aftermarket wheels will be on the way
asked and answered
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Old 06-19-2009 | 09:19 AM
  #1686  
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Originally Posted by tedstryker
thnx man where can i get these..
check with your LHS,if they dont have them im sure they can order them.or go to a mail order company and get them.Amainhobbies always seems to have alot of parts in stuck,and so does Stormer Hobbies.
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Old 06-19-2009 | 10:26 AM
  #1687  
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Originally Posted by ballisticsart
t4 arms are notoriously brittle in the hands of unseasoned driver!! but did you know the GT2 arms are almost a direct fit and are damn near bullet proof. all the geometry is the same but you must use a gt2 outer hinge pin. rpm arms are great if your bashing but not so good for racing, they seem to make the truck feel real lazy

I just got all the GT2 stuff but I soon realized the rear shock mounts are much higher on the arms? What are you guys doing about this?
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Old 06-19-2009 | 10:42 AM
  #1688  
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Originally Posted by balistic
I just got all the GT2 stuff but I soon realized the rear shock mounts are much higher on the arms? What are you guys doing about this?
Using Losi hubs to keep it simple.
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Old 06-19-2009 | 10:43 AM
  #1689  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
Using Losi hubs to keep it simple.
X2
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Old 06-19-2009 | 10:54 AM
  #1690  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
Using Losi hubs to keep it simple.
X3
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Old 06-19-2009 | 11:02 AM
  #1691  
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Default weight

Hello...i was just wondering as far as where u race at ...is there a weight requirement & if so what is it
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Old 06-19-2009 | 11:18 AM
  #1692  
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I myself have not raced mine yet at a local track. But most tracks will run this in a Mod SCT class so weight is not an issue pretty much run whatcha brung is it.
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Old 06-19-2009 | 11:26 AM
  #1693  
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Originally Posted by balistic
I just got all the GT2 stuff but I soon realized the rear shock mounts are much higher on the arms? What are you guys doing about this?
drill new shock mount holes in the arm directly below the existing holes, then grind off the old shock mount holes.
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Old 06-19-2009 | 11:30 AM
  #1694  
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Originally Posted by RcRacing4Ever
Hello...i was just wondering as far as where u race at ...is there a weight requirement & if so what is it

Roar Rules. 74 oz
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Old 06-19-2009 | 11:40 AM
  #1695  
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Originally Posted by truck driver
drill new shock mount holes in the arm directly below the existing holes, then grind off the old shock mount holes.
Walking through this I thought that would be the answer. I did notice however that the outside hole in the GT2 arms in the inside hole on the SC10 arms.

I moved the shock to the front of the shock mount also, I don't know if that will work when I change the holes in the arms?
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