SC10 Thread
#9183
Just a quick question to see what you guys do about situations like this:
I recently have only been able to race 1x a week at my local track. However, often when I leave the track, both of my two LiPo batteries (2s) will be fully charged. I have been just letting them sit for the week, fully charged, and have not been putting them in storage mode for the week. Now, I would assume this wouldn't hurt anything, but I just wanted to check with you guys before I continue to do it. Will doing this potentially decrease the life of my battery or cause any harm to it? Thanks!
Update:
Just did the hex conversion on my FT last night... using all AE parts, with the exception of JConcept adapters in the rear. Lovin' it!
I recently have only been able to race 1x a week at my local track. However, often when I leave the track, both of my two LiPo batteries (2s) will be fully charged. I have been just letting them sit for the week, fully charged, and have not been putting them in storage mode for the week. Now, I would assume this wouldn't hurt anything, but I just wanted to check with you guys before I continue to do it. Will doing this potentially decrease the life of my battery or cause any harm to it? Thanks!
Update:
Just did the hex conversion on my FT last night... using all AE parts, with the exception of JConcept adapters in the rear. Lovin' it!
#9184
Tech Initiate
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 20
From: Ohio
I know they were on his truck, not sure on the B4.1. Don't know #. Cavalarri had them on his truck too. Red rear, not sure what color on front. I know he didn't have red on front.
#9185
KBR-
Go back to the base SC10 setup.
Things to check-
Diff. Hold spur gear & spin tire on one side. Other side should spin about one revolution then come to a stop. If it rolls more diff is to loose. If it only rolls about a half turn your diff is to tight. Does your diff feel gritty? Might need rebuilt.
Rear hubs forward. Where they mount in the A-arms. Should be two shims. I have the Factory Team truck. Don't know about the others. Put the two shims to the rear. Moves the hub forward. Gives you more push coming out of turns.
Front camber link is in proper location. Remove any shims under the ball studs on the tower.
Tires- Double Dees on front, Bar Codes on rear. Or similar combination. AKA Grid Irons front, Wishbones or Rebars rear.
Go back to the base SC10 setup.
Things to check-
Diff. Hold spur gear & spin tire on one side. Other side should spin about one revolution then come to a stop. If it rolls more diff is to loose. If it only rolls about a half turn your diff is to tight. Does your diff feel gritty? Might need rebuilt.
Rear hubs forward. Where they mount in the A-arms. Should be two shims. I have the Factory Team truck. Don't know about the others. Put the two shims to the rear. Moves the hub forward. Gives you more push coming out of turns.
Front camber link is in proper location. Remove any shims under the ball studs on the tower.
Tires- Double Dees on front, Bar Codes on rear. Or similar combination. AKA Grid Irons front, Wishbones or Rebars rear.
#9186
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 144
From: holland
Just a quick question to see what you guys do about situations like this:
I recently have only been able to race 1x a week at my local track. However, often when I leave the track, both of my two LiPo batteries (2s) will be fully charged. I have been just letting them sit for the week, fully charged, and have not been putting them in storage mode for the week. Now, I would assume this wouldn't hurt anything, but I just wanted to check with you guys before I continue to do it. Will doing this potentially decrease the life of my battery or cause any harm to it? Thanks!
Update:
Just did the hex conversion on my FT last night... using all AE parts, with the exception of JConcept adapters in the rear. Lovin' it!
I recently have only been able to race 1x a week at my local track. However, often when I leave the track, both of my two LiPo batteries (2s) will be fully charged. I have been just letting them sit for the week, fully charged, and have not been putting them in storage mode for the week. Now, I would assume this wouldn't hurt anything, but I just wanted to check with you guys before I continue to do it. Will doing this potentially decrease the life of my battery or cause any harm to it? Thanks!
Update:
Just did the hex conversion on my FT last night... using all AE parts, with the exception of JConcept adapters in the rear. Lovin' it!
Last edited by bzb; 01-21-2012 at 10:19 AM.
#9187
Just a quick question to see what you guys do about situations like this:
I recently have only been able to race 1x a week at my local track. However, often when I leave the track, both of my two LiPo batteries (2s) will be fully charged. I have been just letting them sit for the week, fully charged, and have not been putting them in storage mode for the week. Now, I would assume this wouldn't hurt anything, but I just wanted to check with you guys before I continue to do it. Will doing this potentially decrease the life of my battery or cause any harm to it? Thanks!
Update:
Just did the hex conversion on my FT last night... using all AE parts, with the exception of JConcept adapters in the rear. Lovin' it!
I recently have only been able to race 1x a week at my local track. However, often when I leave the track, both of my two LiPo batteries (2s) will be fully charged. I have been just letting them sit for the week, fully charged, and have not been putting them in storage mode for the week. Now, I would assume this wouldn't hurt anything, but I just wanted to check with you guys before I continue to do it. Will doing this potentially decrease the life of my battery or cause any harm to it? Thanks!
Update:
Just did the hex conversion on my FT last night... using all AE parts, with the exception of JConcept adapters in the rear. Lovin' it!
I use mine to much to leave in storage mode.
Some discharge them. some don't.
I use my cars to discharge mine and just don't charge them back up when I am not going to use them. Mine only sit charged for about a day before they get used again.
oh and Lake.
I took 1st, 1st and 1st last night at the races
#9188
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 18
KBR-
Go back to the base SC10 setup.
Things to check-
Diff. Hold spur gear & spin tire on one side. Other side should spin about one revolution then come to a stop. If it rolls more diff is to loose. If it only rolls about a half turn your diff is to tight. Does your diff feel gritty? Might need rebuilt.
Rear hubs forward. Where they mount in the A-arms. Should be two shims. I have the Factory Team truck. Don't know about the others. Put the two shims to the rear. Moves the hub forward. Gives you more push coming out of turns.
Front camber link is in proper location. Remove any shims under the ball studs on the tower.
Tires- Double Dees on front, Bar Codes on rear. Or similar combination. AKA Grid Irons front, Wishbones or Rebars rear.
Go back to the base SC10 setup.
Things to check-
Diff. Hold spur gear & spin tire on one side. Other side should spin about one revolution then come to a stop. If it rolls more diff is to loose. If it only rolls about a half turn your diff is to tight. Does your diff feel gritty? Might need rebuilt.
Rear hubs forward. Where they mount in the A-arms. Should be two shims. I have the Factory Team truck. Don't know about the others. Put the two shims to the rear. Moves the hub forward. Gives you more push coming out of turns.
Front camber link is in proper location. Remove any shims under the ball studs on the tower.
Tires- Double Dees on front, Bar Codes on rear. Or similar combination. AKA Grid Irons front, Wishbones or Rebars rear.
#9189
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 254
KBR-
Go back to the base SC10 setup.
Things to check-
Diff. Hold spur gear & spin tire on one side. Other side should spin about one revolution then come to a stop. If it rolls more diff is to loose. If it only rolls about a half turn your diff is to tight. Does your diff feel gritty? r.
Go back to the base SC10 setup.
Things to check-
Diff. Hold spur gear & spin tire on one side. Other side should spin about one revolution then come to a stop. If it rolls more diff is to loose. If it only rolls about a half turn your diff is to tight. Does your diff feel gritty? r.
Mark
#9190
Actually got my truck working good in a low traction,bumpy, dusty surface today. What helped alot was altering my throttle.curve to take.the bottom.end out so it wouldnt spin. Moving the camber link inward helped me come out of turns better instead of spinning out.on exit.
#9193
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 18
Actually got my truck working good in a low traction,bumpy, dusty surface today. What helped alot was altering my throttle.curve to take.the bottom.end out so it wouldnt spin. Moving the camber link inward helped me come out of turns better instead of spinning out.on exit.
#9195
Picking up an SC10 for the first round of the SC Showdown at my home track coming up in March, what have the setups been for using Losi BB springs?
I'm all set up now on my buggy, but I'm just trying to figure out what would be equivalent to a Green and Gray rear and a Red, Gold, and Blue front. Pink Losi rear seems to be like an Ae Green, what do you guys think to match a Gray Ae rear, go up to Orange?
I'm lost on truck fronts; haven't touched an SC10 or T4 in almost a year.
I'm all set up now on my buggy, but I'm just trying to figure out what would be equivalent to a Green and Gray rear and a Red, Gold, and Blue front. Pink Losi rear seems to be like an Ae Green, what do you guys think to match a Gray Ae rear, go up to Orange?
I'm lost on truck fronts; haven't touched an SC10 or T4 in almost a year.



