titotime

iTrader: (2)

Here are some more pics of my modded Mblox. I hope this clears things up. The flange bearing must be installed on the center diff outdrive cup.



I used a Ridgid Oscillating EDGE/Belt Spindle Sander. Started with 80grit and finished off with 220grit paper. Heres a link for the sander.

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Oscillat...r/EN/index.htm

2dialed

not really a designer but alittle something to prevent chassis flex under the center drive shaft. this chassis doesn't really have chassis braces,i suppose the battery box is the chassis brace.... but if u cut on it like i did to fit wider batteries then it weakens it

titotime

iTrader: (2)

Really nice mod! I myself was not happy with factory chassis flex, mainly the rear chassis flex. Between the center diff and the radio tray, too much longitudinal flex with in my opinion causes excessive center drive train wear.
My own mod seems to help the similar issue. Glad to see someone else noticed the issue I had. Sure helped my car out a bunch with minimal alteration to the buggy. Thanks 2dialed for the update, you really seemed to fix the issue. Great work!
Heres a pic of mine with the awesome Elite RC motor mount.

2dialed

yeah, i got to see brandons mounts when he came down to revelation for thanksgiving... very nice machine work but it looks like he made it to fit the nitro version with the center diff. only 2 screws to the chassis instead of 3. at least with the nitro chassis u can go 4mm chassis extended and regular chassis braces. do u guys run over at union city? have u ever been to lakeport

sylvain.damours

iTrader: (4)

Hey titotime, what's the part number to do your mod?

titotime

iTrader: (2)

My mod consists of a 4mm turnbuckle and some ball ends from a torque rod off my Kyosho Inferno GT. A truggy steering turnbuckle should work with a Kyosho torque rod ball stud anchor for attaching to Hyper9e radio box plate.

Something like this, but not this exact one.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Torque-Rod-Set
Take a look to see if you have one lying around that is the right length.
I had to cut the turnbuckle a little to fit to length.

longbill76

iTrader: (11)

Actually I made it fit the 9E and it also happens to work on the 9 2.0/GL
The 3rd screw was intended to keep the motor mount stable due to the split diff design, the 3rd screw actually hinders the horizontal/side to side flex that a buggy needs, what the 9E lacked was a lateral brace which your mod will take care of..
You & Titotime are on the right track with reducing the lateral flex..

Simple & effective, great tip for the Hyper dudes..

jon9e

hi there,sorry bit off the subject but does anyone know who sells the cnc rear support brace for the hyper 9e,its the brace above the centre diff.......

Cain

iTrader: (294)

try specialRC on ebay.

jon9e

none on specialrc cain,any more idea,s,

Cain

iTrader: (294)

search for hyper 9

here is a direct link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hyper-9-E-Versio...0#ht_500wt_956

Scruff_dog

ON SpecialRC, here is a link
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Hyper-9-E-Ver...item414c802e73

jon9e

thanks guys,goin to have to order one from specialRC because nobody does these in the uk,going to cost me a small fortune but HEY,THANKS AGAIN,

balistic

iTrader: (113)

I looked at Kortz's car and he doesn't run that brace so I took mine off. I have already bent two motor mount (front right) bolts and done some damage to the motor mount.

reracer

iTrader: (4)

It's difficult to look at the pro's cars and determine what will work best for the everyday racer. Yea, Jeremy doesn't run hardly any "option" parts, but that's because he's a great driver, and is only concerned about finishing one race. If something does start to fail, then it just gets replaced by the sponsor. He's not paying for the parts like you and I.

As far as the motor mount is concerned, it's best to find a good support for the motor, or at least get some dense foam to put under there.

Just my $.02