TeamDurango

Hi guys, we've just published a build guide for the gearboxes on the DESC410R short course and DEX410 buggy. Take a look:

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=2584

JosephS

iTrader: (5)

Holy smokes! Talk about timing. I'm sitting here looking at my broken down diffs. I recently purchased a lightly used 410r and found a chinked gear. Thanks for the info Team Durango.
Just checked out the build guide. Very well done durango. And thanks again. Good to have a clear understanding of what was wrong.

Dondor

iTrader: (2)

Post a how to on getting the arms to fall free )

One other question for anyone... how do you get those balls out of the aluminum hinge pin mounts?

missouri racer

iTrader: (7)

i have a dex410r with alumnium upgrades (suspension holder ff,fr, and rf also caster block on the front left and right) and a reedy lipo for sale asking $325
if intesrested pm for more information

xrider

iTrader: (5)

You may want to lightly sand your spacers to help the arms not bind.

As for the balls in the hinge pins, try and add some heat. After there out polish the thick point so there more free. Most of mine fell right in, a few had to be polished.

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

Is the aluminum steering plate for the 2010 spec a must-have for 410R owners? Or is the extra hole for the steering links not that noticeable a difference?

How about the rear aluminum suspension holders?

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

I put this sterring plate on my "R" version but my setup does not make use of the extra holes. It is a better quality piece but is not a "must have." I bought because I was trying everything under the sun to correct my steering servo issue before Tresrey released the aluminum version.

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

Does anyone have the part number for the AE axle shims that are used on the rear hub/pins?

syllag1969

iTrader: (4)

taken from B4 manual,page 10: #7368 (3/16 axle shim)is the part number

hope this is what you were looking for

majorsmx521

iTrader: (44)

any word on bigbores for the dex?
thanks
Rob

aradaiel

iTrader: (49)

I'm positive they're not cracked. The amount of flex between the motor and saver in the chassis is pretty extreme. I can bend it over my knee enough to pop the shaft in and out.

It hasn't been an issue with the tie rod though. I just refuse to pay $90 for the sidebraces.

Yes, I'm running at IR-CR.


I was thinking about my diff hoop and the ring/pinion thing. I've got a pretty bad high spot on my rear ring that may be causing the case to flex, possibly. I've got new rings to throw on, I'm going to do that before April Fools.


I tried drilling out my pistons and found that with stiffer oil I'm not sure if it's any faster. The car seems like it has more traction but it's a bit harder to drive. My lap tims are very simmilar.

TeamDurango

If you have a bad high spot you might find rebuilding following our new gearbox build guide fixes it. The high spot could either be down to shimming or an incorrectly installed crown gear - but it's likely fixable without buying any new parts.

Team Durango 410 Gearbox Build Guide

xrider

iTrader: (5)

I wonder if the big bores are the same shocks as used on the DESC410R? I found 3 different PN's on Losi parts house.

TDR230004 23mm stroke
TDR230025 29mm stroke
TDR230026 35mm stroke

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

Just finished building my R. I noticed that the towers have 2 extra holes for the shocks. Based on grapejuice's setup using the middle holes front and rear, do I use the innermost second hole or 3rd hole which places it right at the middle of the 5 holes?

Do you use the rubber stoppers for the shocks,especially if you have the boots?

And after trying to adjust camber and toe using a turnbuckle wrench, the ballcups would immediately pop out. Is this normal or are these junk and just find a more suitable alternative?

TeamDurango

The rubber stoppers are only if you're not using boots

It's best to grease the rods and run them in/out of each ballcup when assembling to ensure they are free and stop them popping off whilst adjusting.