Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread >

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Like Tree22Likes

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-06-2014, 04:07 AM
  #16936  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 257
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by S Miller
So Im looking for an aluminum front bulkhead or just a reliable place to buy the stock one. I found Absolute Hobbyz on ebay and they also have a website. anyone purchased from them before? I need to get this ordered as our winter race season starts this Saturday. Would hate to miss the very first race of the year.

Car has been very good to me, this part broke when I was landed on by another car.
I order from Absolute Hobbyz often, there legit.
triple7s is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 04:29 AM
  #16937  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 652
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by S Miller
So Im looking for an aluminum front bulkhead or just a reliable place to buy the stock one. I found Absolute Hobbyz on ebay and they also have a website. anyone purchased from them before? I need to get this ordered as our winter race season starts this Saturday. Would hate to miss the very first race of the year.

Car has been very good to me, this part broke when I was landed on by another car.
I buy all my Durango parts from Tower or order them from my LHS.
TLRrunner is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 09:01 AM
  #16938  
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,176
Default

Originally Posted by tobamiester
Super. Thats what i was looking for, but couldn't find for some reason.

I switched over to U-joints as i replaced all my bearings with Ceramics. Feels like a different car so need to make a few setup changes to adjust.
If you are looking for more side grip on a bumpy and dusty track, I would upgrade the rears drives shafts (not the center one) to U-joints. This will make the back feel more locked coming into turns, but coming out of turns, it will be less planted as the CVD allow more power to be put to the wheels on power out of a corner. It really depends on how you drive. If you do decide to run a U-joint in the rear (not center shafts), I would suggest running the 2 way slipper and drilling 6 or 8 2mm holes on the rear pad to allow it to be more front drive bias. This will make the front wheels pull you out of a corner, instead of the rear trying to push. I don't really like putting it on the front as much, as it gives more side traction in the corner which gives you more steering. The car already turns enough. However, running on carpet or astro, maybe you might want to consider running u joints in front.
Dino_D is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 09:42 AM
  #16939  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
re-do73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: pleasant hill, mo.
Posts: 263
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default 5MM carbon towers

Made some progress on towers over the weekend. The design is done, and the material is ordered. Im going to do a small run this time, and gage interest from there. Ill get some screen shots of the design up tonight
re-do73 is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 10:59 AM
  #16940  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
the incubus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Florida
Posts: 3,057
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

OK Gents,

I finally broke a rear hub 2 weeks ago and I figured I'd finally get new rear hubs. After studying many vehicles' systems, I was leaning towards ones similar to the stock setup where the ball studs sit horizontally opposed because it keeps the entire system free moving, but I did a little testing for myself. I took my broken block and drilled a small hole and mounted a ball stud to it and then checked movement to see how it affected the whole rear system… It didn't hinder anything in any way outside ONE key issue I've always disliked from the get. I'm sure many of you have seen your ball cups marred gouged up a touch from binding with the wheels at times. Well, with the ball studs mounted vertically opposed, the ball cups move inward a bit and fully clear the wheels and I saw there was no chance for binding and I immediately knew I'd order the Exotek Rear Hubs.

Got them on Friday and installed them and there movement and the gained clearance for the ball cups were consistent with my findings on the broken one. The one thing I will say that I was not expecting is that they are not side specific. They are identical and can be used on either side just the same. There are 2 small holes for set screws to retain the bearings, should they ever become loose and gain free movement or play. On the right side these holes reside in the rear and when flipped for the left side, the holes face forward. It's just something I didn't expect and thought I'd share in the event someone bought them and thought they received two of the same side. Makes sense since they are 0 and the rear toe in is changed via their Exotek RR suspension hangers, which come in different angles. I run the 3 RR Hanger with 0 Blocks and the car is perfect, but I have the 3.5 and the 4.0 that I've never tried.

Anyone with experience using all 3, feel free to let me know what advantages/disadvantages there are with each.


the incubus is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 01:05 PM
  #16941  
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,176
Default

Originally Posted by the incubus
OK Gents,

I finally broke a rear hub 2 weeks ago and I figured I'd finally get new rear hubs. After studying many vehicles' systems, I was leaning towards ones similar to the stock setup where the ball studs sit horizontally opposed because it keeps the entire system free moving, but I did a little testing for myself. I took my broken block and drilled a small hole and mounted a ball stud to it and then checked movement to see how it affected the whole rear system… It didn't hinder anything in any way outside ONE key issue I've always disliked from the get. I'm sure many of you have seen your ball cups marred gouged up a touch from binding with the wheels at times. Well, with the ball studs mounted vertically opposed, the ball cups move inward a bit and fully clear the wheels and I saw there was no chance for binding and I immediately knew I'd order the Exotek Rear Hubs.

Got them on Friday and installed them and there movement and the gained clearance for the ball cups were consistent with my findings on the broken one. The one thing I will say that I was not expecting is that they are not side specific. They are identical and can be used on either side just the same. There are 2 small holes for set screws to retain the bearings, should they ever become loose and gain free movement or play. On the right side these holes reside in the rear and when flipped for the left side, the holes face forward. It's just something I didn't expect and thought I'd share in the event someone bought them and thought they received two of the same side. Makes sense since they are 0 and the rear toe in is changed via their Exotek RR suspension hangers, which come in different angles. I run the 3 RR Hanger with 0 Blocks and the car is perfect, but I have the 3.5 and the 4.0 that I've never tried.

Anyone with experience using all 3, feel free to let me know what advantages/disadvantages there are with each.


[Todd Hodge] Inboard toe-in will give your car more support in the rear. This will give you a car that drives flatter over the rear and will transfer more weight to the front of the car during off-power transition. With outboard toe-in, you will have less support in the rear which will result in less overall rear traction. The car will also hold more of a set over the rear of the car and less initial steering in off-power transition.

[Todd Hodge] Yes, I would say on asphalt rubber tire racing, inboard toe-in could be better since it will have more traction. Outboard toe-in is better for higher bite situations where the car needs to be freed up.

Quote above is from Todd from Team Losi.

In summary, lets say you have 3 inboard and 1 outboard, vs 4 inboard. Inboard will always have a bigger effect that outboard. In my 410 I normally use the +1 rear hubs to give me 4 degrees toe so I can get on power earlier on the exit but still have the tight cornering like someone using 3 degrees especially if I am running on mid to low traction clay or dirt.

Inboard will give you more grip in the turns as the suspension compresses and locks in the rear. But this can cause mid corner push.

Whereas outboard toe acts closer to 3 degrees in the corner, but you still have the 4 degrees toe as you exit out of a corner. It frees up the rear to rotate a bit more in a turn and give you a bit more steering.

If you are asking about using 0 inboard and 4 outboard, its gonna be very loose in mid corner and only works on super high bite tracks like carpet touring car.
Dino_D is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 01:12 PM
  #16942  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
 
FastPete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Orland Park IL
Posts: 5,311
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by triple7s
I order from Absolute Hobbyz often, there legit.
+1 good place.

I have some HW for you Triple 7's!
FastPete is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 01:38 PM
  #16943  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
the incubus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Florida
Posts: 3,057
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for that info.

Just like my 3.0 Exotek RR Hanger in the pic, I have a 3.5 and a 4.0 I've never tried. My car feels well setup (i.e. DIALED) with the 3.0 so I was wondering if either of the other 2 would improve my setup or throw it off balance slightly.

I think Exotek has done their homework and the entire system works, with either their hubs, or the stock plastic ones. Thankfully I had bought a box of miscellaneous spares off a friend who switched form Durango to Tekno and there was a set of the older 0 hubs with the small bearings on both sides and it allowed me to finish my day just fine without anything being off kilter.
the incubus is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 01:47 PM
  #16944  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
MrHistory's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 597
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Absolute Hobbyz

Absolutehobbyz.com is one of my favorite online shops. They process orders very fast (usually ship out same day as you order if you place early enough in the day). Nice people
MrHistory is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 05:33 PM
  #16945  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
re-do73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: pleasant hill, mo.
Posts: 263
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

here are some screenshots of the 5mm towers. I have added some material around the camber link mounts and up top on the shock mount ears

re-do73 is offline  
Old 10-06-2014, 09:56 PM
  #16946  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
 
303slowdown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rapid City SD.
Posts: 2,300
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

It there an aluminum servo horn that is the same length as the stock plastic horn that anyone knows of.
Thanks
303slowdown is offline  
Old 10-07-2014, 12:18 AM
  #16947  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 102
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by re-do73
here are some screenshots of the 5mm towers. I have added some material around the camber link mounts and up top on the shock mount ears

How accurate are the hole positions. ..did you scan them in or just measure them off the existing towers. ..looks great thou
Aussie RC is offline  
Old 10-07-2014, 04:25 AM
  #16948  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
re-do73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: pleasant hill, mo.
Posts: 263
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Aussie RC
How accurate are the hole positions. ..did you scan them in or just measure them off the existing towers. ..looks great thou
Measured from the original towers
re-do73 is offline  
Old 10-07-2014, 04:33 AM
  #16949  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 102
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by re-do73
Measured from the original towers
How accurate r they between the oringinal and yours.
Aussie RC is offline  
Old 10-07-2014, 04:36 AM
  #16950  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 102
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by re-do73
Measured from the original towers
Do towers flexibility have an impact on traction...the more stiffer tower on hard high traction tracks and more flexible towers on loose lower traction tracks...would you agree...I am not sure.
Aussie RC is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.