triple7s

iTrader: (4)

I order from Absolute Hobbyz often, there legit.

TLRrunner

iTrader: (9)

I buy all my Durango parts from Tower or order them from my LHS.

Dino_D

If you are looking for more side grip on a bumpy and dusty track, I would upgrade the rears drives shafts (not the center one) to U-joints. This will make the back feel more locked coming into turns, but coming out of turns, it will be less planted as the CVD allow more power to be put to the wheels on power out of a corner. It really depends on how you drive. If you do decide to run a U-joint in the rear (not center shafts), I would suggest running the 2 way slipper and drilling 6 or 8 2mm holes on the rear pad to allow it to be more front drive bias. This will make the front wheels pull you out of a corner, instead of the rear trying to push. I don't really like putting it on the front as much, as it gives more side traction in the corner which gives you more steering. The car already turns enough. However, running on carpet or astro, maybe you might want to consider running u joints in front.

re-do73

iTrader: (13)

Made some progress on towers over the weekend. The design is done, and the material is ordered. Im going to do a small run this time, and gage interest from there. Ill get some screen shots of the design up tonight

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

OK Gents,

I finally broke a rear hub 2 weeks ago and I figured I'd finally get new rear hubs. After studying many vehicles' systems, I was leaning towards ones similar to the stock setup where the ball studs sit horizontally opposed because it keeps the entire system free moving, but I did a little testing for myself. I took my broken block and drilled a small hole and mounted a ball stud to it and then checked movement to see how it affected the whole rear system… It didn't hinder anything in any way outside ONE key issue I've always disliked from the get. I'm sure many of you have seen your ball cups marred gouged up a touch from binding with the wheels at times. Well, with the ball studs mounted vertically opposed, the ball cups move inward a bit and fully clear the wheels and I saw there was no chance for binding and I immediately knew I'd order the Exotek Rear Hubs.

Got them on Friday and installed them and there movement and the gained clearance for the ball cups were consistent with my findings on the broken one. The one thing I will say that I was not expecting is that they are not side specific. They are identical and can be used on either side just the same. There are 2 small holes for set screws to retain the bearings, should they ever become loose and gain free movement or play. On the right side these holes reside in the rear and when flipped for the left side, the holes face forward. It's just something I didn't expect and thought I'd share in the event someone bought them and thought they received two of the same side. Makes sense since they are 0° and the rear toe in is changed via their Exotek RR suspension hangers, which come in different angles. I run the 3° RR Hanger with 0° Blocks and the car is perfect, but I have the 3.5° and the 4.0° that I've never tried.

Anyone with experience using all 3, feel free to let me know what advantages/disadvantages there are with each.

Dino_D

[Todd Hodge] Inboard toe-in will give your car more support in the rear. This will give you a car that drives flatter over the rear and will transfer more weight to the front of the car during off-power transition. With outboard toe-in, you will have less support in the rear which will result in less overall rear traction. The car will also hold more of a set over the rear of the car and less initial steering in off-power transition.

[Todd Hodge] Yes, I would say on asphalt rubber tire racing, inboard toe-in could be better since it will have more traction. Outboard toe-in is better for higher bite situations where the car needs to be freed up.

Quote above is from Todd from Team Losi.

In summary, lets say you have 3 inboard and 1 outboard, vs 4 inboard. Inboard will always have a bigger effect that outboard. In my 410 I normally use the +1 rear hubs to give me 4 degrees toe so I can get on power earlier on the exit but still have the tight cornering like someone using 3 degrees especially if I am running on mid to low traction clay or dirt.

Inboard will give you more grip in the turns as the suspension compresses and locks in the rear. But this can cause mid corner push.

Whereas outboard toe acts closer to 3 degrees in the corner, but you still have the 4 degrees toe as you exit out of a corner. It frees up the rear to rotate a bit more in a turn and give you a bit more steering.

If you are asking about using 0 inboard and 4 outboard, its gonna be very loose in mid corner and only works on super high bite tracks like carpet touring car.

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

+1 good place.

I have some HW for you Triple 7's!

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for that info.

Just like my 3.0° Exotek RR Hanger in the pic, I have a 3.5 and a 4.0 I've never tried. My car feels well setup (i.e. DIALED) with the 3.0 so I was wondering if either of the other 2 would improve my setup or throw it off balance slightly.

I think Exotek has done their homework and the entire system works, with either their hubs, or the stock plastic ones. Thankfully I had bought a box of miscellaneous spares off a friend who switched form Durango to Tekno and there was a set of the older 0° hubs with the small bearings on both sides and it allowed me to finish my day just fine without anything being off kilter.

MrHistory

iTrader: (2)

Absolutehobbyz.com is one of my favorite online shops. They process orders very fast (usually ship out same day as you order if you place early enough in the day). Nice people

re-do73

iTrader: (13)

here are some screenshots of the 5mm towers. I have added some material around the camber link mounts and up top on the shock mount ears

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

It there an aluminum servo horn that is the same length as the stock plastic horn that anyone knows of.
Thanks

Aussie RC

How accurate are the hole positions. ..did you scan them in or just measure them off the existing towers. ..looks great thou

re-do73

iTrader: (13)

Measured from the original towers

Aussie RC

How accurate r they between the oringinal and yours.

Aussie RC

Do towers flexibility have an impact on traction...the more stiffer tower on hard high traction tracks and more flexible towers on loose lower traction tracks...would you agree...I am not sure.