Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

Already running ManicRC fans. The blades can still catch on the stock case bars. Even if they don't break off, it can stop the fan from spinning and, depending on your setup, cause it to run hotter than normal.

devilchrist

iTrader: (32)

always ran my tekin without a fan no problem. never hit more than 120. running 5S and 1700kv. i do have a vent on my body though aimed at the esc and motor.

prdmetalworks

I have heard about soooo many problems with this speed control & I have always stood up for it because it has never let me down! Well, today was the day!

A little backround first - I run an RC8T with an RX8 / T8 2000kv on 4S

I flipped the switch to on, set it down on pit lane & walked up the stairs to the drivers stand. I take off down pit lane at about 1/8th throttle & notice that my steering trim seems a little off, so instead of running a lap, I do a U turn & run up the straight a couple of times at about 2 mph just to get it trimmed. On my way back down the straight to start my 1st practice lap, I'm still only going maybe 5 mph & she just quits!

I figured the battery came unplugged or something due to the fact that I have NEVER had a problem with this truck. After checking all the obvious stuff & trying some differant packs just to rule it out, I still have nothing! No lights, no chimes - NOTHING! I never even got above 5 mph or so, so heat wasn't the problem, never hit a jump - just flat / slow running?

I know how everyone says that Tekin's customer service is second to none, so I'm sure they would either repair, or replace it, but I dont want to wait 2 months to get my ESC back! I am currently leading the points & dont really want to give up any races to the other guys. Is there anything I could check out myself w/o ruining my warranty? Will opening the case void the warranty?
:flam ing:

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Maybe the switch is bad. Try cutting it off and soldering the wires together.

bohdi

iTrader: (12)

2 months????? what....are you walking it to Idaho?
2 weeks tops depending on how quick you get it there has been my experience.

prdmetalworks

I was just taking a guess? It seems that every time I have tried to have a warranty service performed (never tried Tekin before) it takes so long, I should have just chalked it up as a loss & bought a new one?

I was thinking about the switch too, but didn't want to cut the wires & give them a reason to not warranty it. I did however try to jump across the terminals & still nothing?

I guess I'm still hoping for an easy fix, but it's not looking good!

bigjayjay1

iTrader: (86)

Man relax take a deep breath this is RC things will go bad its part of the game thats why I always care spare for everything

fievel

iTrader: (5)

they will have you up and running it no time, like someone posted before, it will take 2 weeks at the max. Give them a call they may be able to work something out so you can have it by next Friday. They really do have great customer service.

prdmetalworks

Yea, I'm sure they will get it back asap. I'd love to have a spare of everything, but 1/8th scale is new to me. I just jumped in because the class was taking off before the outdoor season even started, so I figured why not?

Well $1400 later, I am starting to take it a little more serious & actually doing pretty good! Oh well, we'll see what happens.

Oh yea, I just tried to email Tekin for an RA# & got an imediate email back, saying they will be out on Thurs & Friday for a local race. Hopefully someone will be around tomorrow to give me a number.

Just made a deal with a friend to borrow a Novak HV speed control - hope it's up to the task so I dont have to buy him a new one!

avrcguy

iTrader: (11)

I feel your pain. I've dealt with a few companies that were ungodly slow with repairs. Have to say LRP was BY FAR the worst. But rest assured Tekin is much quicker. I'd say 2 weeks might be a tad bit optimistic. I personally shipped out an RX8 for repair on the 1st, and got word today that it was shipping out today or tomorrow. So in my case it's probably gonna be about 2-1/2 to 3 weeks. Still FAR FAR better than most.

I'm pretty confident that I can say Tekin isn't going to deny you warranty service for bypassing the power switch.

BTW. Does your ESC power on at all? If not, will it try to power on if you press down on the top of it? If so, there is a chance that the FET on the bottom of the lower board has come loose. If you're really good with a soldering iron, you can fix it yourself. But don't attempt it unless you're confident in your soldering skills.

But obviously, if you can be without it for a little while, your safest bet is to send it in. Just give them a call. It may take a few tries to get through, but once you do, they'll fix you up right!

Ezrem

iTrader: (13)

Best bet is to call and get an RA#. Always call. Email can get lost in a spam filter, or just get overlooked. A ringing phone gets answered. Even when they're out for weekend races, there is someone manning the phones that can give them out.

Turnaround time is about 2 weeks or slightly less after they get the ESC in their hands, for me at least. It would be a little shorter but I sent two in within a few days of each other. One doing LED's 1,2,6,7 (bad motor type, though the motor tested out fine), and one that was brand spanking new that failed somewhat...more spectacularly, shall we say, on its first shakedown run.

Failures do suck, but they're a fact of life with electronics. The fact that Tekin works with us to make sure we get back on the track makes the RX8 the best thing going, if you ask me.

prdmetalworks

I dont get anything at all - not even well pressing down on the soldering posts.

shano83

iTrader: (8)

hey guys whats the maximum running temp of the 2050kv t8 motor
cheers

TD-Ent

iTrader: (75)

Ok, finally got my replacement RX-8 wired up last night for testing.

Question # 1 - pre-tinned solder is so hard, my new checkpoint solder station will not flow it with wires very easily. What do you guys use for solder/irons?

Question # 2 - Hooked it up to my hotwire, and the hotwire says that the RX-8 is not compatible and is old. My Hotwire is on the new 4. whatever.

Question # 3 - Still have the old 4 hole case, did I get an old RX-8 back?

Question # 4 - It will not calibrate. - It does the neutral, forward, and then it will not read the reverse to calibrate. I can run it, just had to adjust the throttle trim to get the motor to stop spinning. It will accept hotwire updates, but not easily.

Question #5 - It's also running extremely warm compared to the one I sent in. Current is set back to 50, brakes and reverse are off, 3 for a throttle curve. ESC isn't cooking, but it's running 120-130. Timing is at 10. I've running a 1900 on 4s 40c packs. Losi 8e tekno kit with 16/48 gearing. I have 3 large vent holes in the body with the back of the body opened up, so it's getting plenty of air. I've never had the fan run with this thing, and I'm not even on the big track yet, just testing on my small backyard track. I hate to see what's going to happen tomorrow with my temps.

I've already done a hard reset on the ESC, quadruple checked my radio settings, changed end points and everything to try and re-calibrate. Tried about 8 different calibrations on it with different settings.


HELP!!!

Ezrem

iTrader: (13)

That Team Checkpoint TC-950 station is the same as a Hakko 936, more or less. I think it may have a smaller iron, which may be your problem. The 936 uses tips that are about 1/4" in diameter underneath the shroud that locks them into place. The extra material helps them hold on to heat better. If you have the smaller tip size, you might need to use slightly higher temperatures over less time to get the job done.

This happens every time I ever hook an RX8 up to a hotwire. Pretty sure you can update the ESC in the advanced section of the HotWire software, but I think all the software builds are the same for the RX8 anyway, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Page back 2-3 pages, and there are several helpful posts from Randy and Ty about identifying which case you have. Some are hand modded so it's not as simple as 3 vs 4 holes.

I think I had this problem once, and my end points were dialed down on my radio. You might check that.

120-130 has been pretty standard for me with my systems. I would keep an eye on it, but I wouldn't get too worried if I were you.