big greg

iTrader: (119)

i seen one thermal over a month ago, nananana boo boo, lol, the novak motor itself is to weak to run a 1/8 scale realiably, rotor is to darn small!

big greg

iTrader: (119)

double post

avrcguy

iTrader: (11)

I tried searching the thread, but was unable to find what the maximum operating temp is for the T8 motors. I personally haven't seen over 150 on mine, but still would be nice to know.

Tekin? Anyone?

TEAM-AE-4-EVER

Interesting... wonder if that is the case with the V3 combo from Castle as well? I don't understand why NEU or Tekin in this matter would not use a SINTERED ROTOR over a weaker Bonded Rotor? Is it because of costs? It just doesn't make sense? I guess only someone from Tekin can answer that question properly... hopefully we get an answer when they come in to work tomorrow and log-in and catch-up on the stuff on here...



hlpressly, again I refer to my question to the Tekin team above...





Accel, I specifically remember TY from Tekin posting T8 Motors would now be assembled through a better process: "hydraulic press fit and should be a lot stronger."... I guess it wasn't tested enough or the replacement motor you got didn't go through the Hydraulic Press Fit process at all?!

By the way, sorry to hear about the poor odds you and your buddies are going through... its certainly not very encouraging to say the least




Yup, like you I'm still waiting on a reply... a few pages and counting... Hopefully by Monday at 9am Idaho time...

Krio

iTrader: (159)

I don't think people understand when it is said the rotor is sintered or bonded. It is the Magnets that are either sintered or bonded, but you have to attach the magnets to the shaft somehow.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

The magnets are sintered, not bonded. Sintered vs. bonded isn't just how the magnets are attached to the rotor shaft. There are glue joints that we're having issues with in production that have since been corrected.

Bonded magnets are magnetic materials usually in powder form mixed with a bonder to make magnets.

Sintered magnets are created with materials pressed and formed with high temps and heat without the bonder material.

Clearly the magnets are stronger than the glue joints right now, lol.

As always we're here to make it right and take care of any issues.

advanaw11

iTrader: (4)

should i use the clutch kit that came with the techno rc kit or go direct???????????????????????????????????????????? ???????????


i cant decide.!!!!!!!!!!!! i feel like im going to brake it when its direct. but i dont want to deal with buying clutches = [

any imputs mr randy pike??? btw this is on a sc8

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

Your clutch shoes will last a very long time, much longer than if used in a nitro where they constantly drag. You should be able to get months of regular running/racing on a single set. The clutch bells last many times longer than pinions in our experience, we have yet to wear out a clutch bell with our conversions.

But with anything, give it a shot, try both methods and stick with the one that makes you faster on the track.

big greg

iTrader: (119)

i believe ive read up to 200 degrees or so, similar to the neus for neomagnet strength i believe, i was wondering this to as mine got up to 170 a couple times

advanaw11

iTrader: (4)

im more concerned about the stress im giving the motor and esc. i would like to go direct. but unsure i might burn out the esc or like some people on this thread they motors comes appart. im sure every one is running direct

afonsospt

iTrader: (1)

No no,I did swap batterys one time.It wasnt 30min non stop.

@teeforb I could go 5S,temps would be lower for sure,but I have 5 4S packs

js058515

iTrader: (6)

I have been running the Tekno clutch for almost a year now and have yet to replace a clutchbell or set of shoes. Of course I don't race just track bashing as I call it, either way your concern shouldn't be what you will have to replace. You probably want to just decide on something and start using it. From there you can start playing with different setups and fine tune your SC8. Not to be mean, but we can only give you advice on what has worked for each and everyone of us. Not everyone has tried every setup out there and we can't totally prevent you from burning up your ESC just by telling you what to run.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

Will it void my warrenty if I mod the case a tiny bit for a better fan? I know the answer, but I thought I would ask anyway since the stock fans are junk! Lost 1 fan blade during the first heat. Lost a 2nd blade during the 2nd heat and it jammed the fan. Ran the main with 3 blades left. Other than that, my system is running good. I ran a 2050 in my RC8 geared 44/16 for 15 minutes in the main and only had to put back 3300 into my battery. Others in my club were not as fortunate this weekend....

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

If you trim off the little nub in the center of the fan shroud and install one of these, your fan will last.

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Racing-Dust-Co...20176002r30389

kufman

iTrader: (6)

If I install that, I might as well just remove the fan. I really shouldn't have to buy anything, Tekin needs to come up with a fix! I have been bolting fans directly to the top of ESC's for years and I have never had one fail this quickly. In fact, I have never had a fan fail prior to this. I use this fan on other ESC's and have never had a problem. It is too tall for the Tekin case, but the blades are much stronger.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...ductId=212783&