Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Check your battery connections , I had the same problem when the connection was either loose or had some dirt in them .

weavty1

iTrader: (12)

So, at a big race this last weekend.. I go to plug in my batteries and... No lights, no fan, a tiny spark between the bullet connector and battery hard case socket (as usual), but again, no power, no lights, no motor chime, no fan, nothing... and i've checked all of my packs.. (about 14 of them, kinda hoping it was maybe a bad pack, or a busted jumper wire, but all checked out good).

I opened up the RX8 case (it's a three-hole, red heatsink, btw.. fairly new), and nothing seemed to be amiss with any of the solder joints, diodes, capacitors, etc... Everything looks bueno.

Any idea..? Oh and I'm running mine hard-wired (no on/off switch), and I double-checked the solder joint, I made on that, and re-soldered everything.. Still no bueno.

Thanks gents!

dexon555

Randy,

Can you settle a question about the current limiter function. Does the current limiter affect the initial amount of current when the throttle is initially pulled or does it limit the total current sent to the motor all the time?

Everyone has a different opinion it seems.

Thanks.

bmxracer39x

iTrader: (8)

Same problem here...checked battery input post for voltage which is at 8.4volts...so I'm getting voltage to the RX8...I even plugged in my hotwire, which worked and I was able to see my current settings...just no power when plugged into battery.

Any ideas? Or should I call for service?

Thanks

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Adjusts to initial throttle response during acceleration.

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire_rs.html

sirio76

As far as I know current limiter affect initial throttle only, living full rpm unaffected.

mcion

iTrader: (32)

Looking for some insight, Got a Tekin T8 1900 with RX8 on a XB9 converted electric. The car comes with 46t spur and the diff case ratio is 3.33333 or 40t/12t. I have been between 15t, 16t, and 17t pinions trying to find the right combo. A friend of mine has the same setup and buggy as I and uses a 15t and likes it, but I feel like the 17t suits my driving style better as I am able to be more consistent and faster with it, the problem is the 17t is getting the esc pretty hot, all dots flashing after a pack and motor temping at 200 to 210, where the 15t is at about 5 - 6 dots flashing temping at 150 - 160 and motor still coming off at 190 - 200. What can i do to reduce the torque like a 17t would and gain the top end i want without introducing the extra heat?

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Not much to add really. On the motor ABC wires there should be NO connectors. These wires carry a lot of power and any connections or connectors added to them will only add resistance and or cause a problem when they loosen up while racing.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Unplug the fan, unplug the sensor harness, unplug the Rx8 from the receiver, power it up. Result?

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Only the initial power hit. I refer to this as the first 6ft of car travel.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Unplug the fan, unplug the sensor harness, unplug the Rx8 from the receiver, power it up. Result?

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

current limiter! You're over gearing it to soften the power down low right? If this is the case use the current limiter and the correct gearing.

bmxracer39x

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the reply Randy!

After unplugging fan, sensor and recvr....I get all the LED's flashing.

Jordan Anderson

iTrader: (6)

As a result of the above and because I couldn't get a T8 sensor PCB quickly, I raced with the RX8/T8 combo sensorless yesterday. It ran great sensorless!

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Ok, now systematically plug in each item until it no longer works. Shut it on/off each time you plug an item in.

All led's flashing means the Rx8 is alive...something is shorted either, fan rx or sensor board pcb or harness.