Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

No, the larger tip simply helps transfers heat to the parts.

Solder diameter isn't going to affect that.

jdtwenty6

iTrader: (25)

Thanks

jdtwenty6

iTrader: (25)

Randy, well I decided to invest in the hakko 888 do I'm just going to wait to get that unit so it is easier. What setting of temp or watt or whatever should I set it at to solder the motor and esc? Thanks a lot for your help.

Deja Vu

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys...

I am running the RX8/Pro4 4600 in my SCTE with Futaba radio and a Hitec servo. I have a cap installed on the receiver, plus there is a PT connected. I recently started getting a significant lag between the ESC and motor (to the point the truck will coast to a stop before it takes off again). At first I thought it was the receiver dropping voltage, but then last night I noticed through the truck window that I could see the LEDs climbing and lowering as I worked the trigger, but the truck didn't move. I did this a few times an then it took off again.

The motor gets up to the mid 180s during a 5 minute race. It doesn't seem to lag during a couple of warm up laps, but as soon as it sees any temps, it starts. I re-soldered the wiring and tried a different sensor cable. The truck drive train is freshly rebuilt and free.

Would the best bet be to pull the motor, clean, replace bearings and lube? It seems OK on the bench, but there is an obvious issue once warmed up and under load. Anything else I should check? Forgot to mention...using 6500mah/90C batteries. Same results with any of 3 batteries.

(Edit: I did try adding a motor fan last night, but that seemed to overdraw the receiver.)
(Edit 2: Would a power cap on the ESC +/- input maybe help?)

Thanks guys...

No Idea!!

can some one point me in the right direction, on timing please, i have a long straight,and want to maximise, my top speed on that straight, thanks running 212 in a cobra on 4s

thanks again

sirio76

what motor and pinion are you running?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Timing isn't needed in 1/8. All it will do is Add heat in which we dont want.

No Idea!!

It's I just want to gain on the straight, up a pinion

Now on 16/ 1900 Kv

No Idea!!

16/1900 kv

jha07

iTrader: (3)

Can someone explain to me why the RX8 only has Dual mode, but on the RS it has both Dual and Sensored only. Lots of people run Sensored only on the RS. Does it offer an advantage over Dual?

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Sensored only is best used with 2 pole motors, which are more common in 10th scale. The rx8 was designed to run the t8 4-pole motors and they operate worlds better in dual mode. Sensored only can even be detrimental when used on 4 pole motors.

jha07

iTrader: (3)

So when using 2 pole motors, what advantage does Sensored only have over Dual mode?

TY@TEAMTEKIN

You can increase the RPM output of a 2-pole motor drastically by using sensored timing advance, what we call Boost. 4-pole motors don't respond to timing boost as well as 2-poles and running them in Dual Mode gives you better efficiency while still retaining precise lower RPM control by using the sensors.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Dual mode allows you to run absolute 0 degrees of timing, but can only go up to 30 degrees. Sensored only starts at whatever the sensors are reading and can add an additional 75 degrees between boost and turbo. Most 2 pole motors (for maximum power) like to start around 15-30 degrees and more timing can be added incrementally as their rpm increases; as much as 55 to 65 when running high turn motors like a 17.5. Since dual mode is only capable of adding 30 degrees (100 on the timing advance slider), sensored only provides more power for stock or spec classes like 17.5, 13.5, or 10.5. If you are running an 8.5 or faster motor, then dual mode could be used to soften the power for a more precise feel and more motor control as well as cooler temperatures.

babydaddy

iTrader: (8)

I hope you guys can help
I have a RX8 3 hole. The speedo was working fine and I just wanted to turn the brake up slightly.I used hotwire to do it and I realized there was a software update from 212 to 223 so I proceeded with it before making the adjustment. After performing the update and making the adjustment, I recalibrated my esc to the radio. I did a quick test in the house and noticed its like a on and off switch. I played with the timing turning it all the way down, lowered the profile to 1 with no change. As soon as I barley touch the throttle, it takes off aggressively. I tried to revert back to version 212 and after it completes, the esc is does not light up or make arming tones however the transponder is blinking so the bec seems to be working. I reverted back to 223 and everything comes back up. I called Tekin and the man basically said 223 may behave that way to try a current limiter or try reverting back making sure not to uplug it prematurely. I tried 3 more times to revert back with the same dead to the world results. I went back to 223 again and set a current limiter with no better results. I have a big race this Saturday and I am desperate for ideas.
Thanks in advance