769LikesTeam Associated B6.4 and B6.4d
10-19-2023, 08:54 AM - Wikipost
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B6.3 / B6.3D and B6.4 / B6.4D Helpful Posts
B6.4 and B6.4D specific parts release list. https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...Parts-List.pdf Team Associated 1/10th Shock Length Quick Reference Chart https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=955 How to measure Shock Shafts https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=956 Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M. The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths Kit +2 axles 73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts Option 0 axles 73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts Why would you want to change the driveshaft length? It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle). The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car. Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement. When would you want to change this? Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas. To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit. On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks. The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...) What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms. Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!) The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners. Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections. Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall. So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is. 
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01-18-2023, 03:34 AM
#691
While lowering the CofG will help you don't often read of people experiencing traction rolling with modern cars so I would suggest it's a setup issue. Have a look at the carpet setup as it is probably generating too much traction, lengthening the top links, harder springs and thicker oil will help.
As mentioned, the extra weight is about getting the front to grip and rear to rotate.
Good luck
As mentioned, the extra weight is about getting the front to grip and rear to rotate.
Good luck
01-18-2023, 06:22 AM
#692
I do. To my knowledge, the B6.4 with the kit setup (minus sway bars and a 7k 2 gear diff) is the way to go. I'll be getting one this week to replace my B6.2. For that track, schumacher mezzo rear tires and low profile cut staggers are the tires of choice. A Hobbywing justock esc is good enough for getting started and running for a while. 29 tooth pinion and 72 tooth spur is the standard there. If your just coming back, then most 17.5 motors will be good enough to get you into the groove. Radio Control Hobbies and Raceway (RCHR) has everything mentioned above and everything else for you to get up and running. They race 17.5 buggy on Wednesdays at 7PM and Saturdays at 5PM.
01-22-2023, 02:29 PM
#694
Any new carpet setups or new things to try? I have been running the Brent Theilke setup from the JConcepts race for a while bu think i could use some tuning.
My local track just got new commercial grade office carpet and have been toldit has ok grip so far.
I ran yesterday on Astroturf and it was horrible. It was the worst the buggy has every been even though i was running the same tires as everyone else.
What are some things you would change if your buggy was lacking grip front and rear, almost a four wheel drift.
The first thing i did was take out the 6.1 D block and add 3deg rear toe, helped very little, and still had little steering.
I also should have taken out the direct drive and installed my slipper, didnt have enought time running two classes and no time between rounds.
Any helpful advice?
Thanks as always.
My local track just got new commercial grade office carpet and have been toldit has ok grip so far.
I ran yesterday on Astroturf and it was horrible. It was the worst the buggy has every been even though i was running the same tires as everyone else.
What are some things you would change if your buggy was lacking grip front and rear, almost a four wheel drift.
The first thing i did was take out the 6.1 D block and add 3deg rear toe, helped very little, and still had little steering.
I also should have taken out the direct drive and installed my slipper, didnt have enought time running two classes and no time between rounds.
Any helpful advice?
Thanks as always.
01-23-2023, 12:47 AM
#695
Any new carpet setups or new things to try? I have been running the Brent Theilke setup from the JConcepts race for a while bu think i could use some tuning.
My local track just got new commercial grade office carpet and have been toldit has ok grip so far.
I ran yesterday on Astroturf and it was horrible. It was the worst the buggy has every been even though i was running the same tires as everyone else.
What are some things you would change if your buggy was lacking grip front and rear, almost a four wheel drift.
The first thing i did was take out the 6.1 D block and add 3deg rear toe, helped very little, and still had little steering.
I also should have taken out the direct drive and installed my slipper, didnt have enought time running two classes and no time between rounds.
Any helpful advice?
Thanks as always.
My local track just got new commercial grade office carpet and have been toldit has ok grip so far.
I ran yesterday on Astroturf and it was horrible. It was the worst the buggy has every been even though i was running the same tires as everyone else.
What are some things you would change if your buggy was lacking grip front and rear, almost a four wheel drift.
The first thing i did was take out the 6.1 D block and add 3deg rear toe, helped very little, and still had little steering.
I also should have taken out the direct drive and installed my slipper, didnt have enought time running two classes and no time between rounds.
Any helpful advice?
Thanks as always.
Have you tried the kit setup with largrr pistons and no anti roll bars, should drive nicrly on astro.
01-23-2023, 03:33 AM
#696
If you can post your setup it might help people offer some advice, not all astro is high grip and running the 6.1d to give you zero rear toe is really only for very high grip carpet with cactus tyres that lock the rear in.
Have you tried the kit setup with largrr pistons and no anti roll bars, should drive nicrly on astro.
Have you tried the kit setup with largrr pistons and no anti roll bars, should drive nicrly on astro.
This is my current setup.
The first thing i did was to put the 6.4 D-block back on with 3deg of rear toe, i also unhooked the front sway bar.
01-25-2023, 02:10 PM
#697
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Loving this car on black carpet with Jconcepts tires!
We are currently using the kit setting on the rear link: center hole inside with 4mm under ballstud, 2mm under outer stud with 2mm spacers.
Saw a local fast guy is running 2mm under the inside stud (kit mount, not the +2 FT mount), with the outer mount reversed and 1mm of spacers (I believe this would make the link 3mm longer?)
What would those two changes do on the track?
We are currently using the kit setting on the rear link: center hole inside with 4mm under ballstud, 2mm under outer stud with 2mm spacers.
Saw a local fast guy is running 2mm under the inside stud (kit mount, not the +2 FT mount), with the outer mount reversed and 1mm of spacers (I believe this would make the link 3mm longer?)
What would those two changes do on the track?
01-25-2023, 03:23 PM
#698
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Loving this car on black carpet with Jconcepts tires!
We are currently using the kit setting on the rear link: center hole inside with 4mm under ballstud, 2mm under outer stud with 2mm spacers.
Saw a local fast guy is running 2mm under the inside stud (kit mount, not the +2 FT mount), with the outer mount reversed and 1mm of spacers (I believe this would make the link 3mm longer?)
What would those two changes do on the track?
We are currently using the kit setting on the rear link: center hole inside with 4mm under ballstud, 2mm under outer stud with 2mm spacers.
Saw a local fast guy is running 2mm under the inside stud (kit mount, not the +2 FT mount), with the outer mount reversed and 1mm of spacers (I believe this would make the link 3mm longer?)
What would those two changes do on the track?
Everything is a compromise.
01-25-2023, 03:50 PM
#699
Loving this car on black carpet with Jconcepts tires!
We are currently using the kit setting on the rear link: center hole inside with 4mm under ballstud, 2mm under outer stud with 2mm spacers.
Saw a local fast guy is running 2mm under the inside stud (kit mount, not the +2 FT mount), with the outer mount reversed and 1mm of spacers (I believe this would make the link 3mm longer?)
What would those two changes do on the track?
We are currently using the kit setting on the rear link: center hole inside with 4mm under ballstud, 2mm under outer stud with 2mm spacers.
Saw a local fast guy is running 2mm under the inside stud (kit mount, not the +2 FT mount), with the outer mount reversed and 1mm of spacers (I believe this would make the link 3mm longer?)
What would those two changes do on the track?
01-26-2023, 05:32 PM
#701
Right now i have the steel bulkhead at 25deg, what change would i feel if i put the 0 deg aluminum bulkhead on.
01-26-2023, 11:23 PM
#702
If you have your steal bulkhead with 25' at front then you will only have 20' of total kickup, try turning it around to give you 25' kick up (confusing I know).
Others things to look at would be removing a rear inner camber link washer and moving you wishbones forward to lock the rear in more.
01-27-2023, 05:38 AM
#703
I mixed myself up. deleted it. I was thinking about the 20deg block they had out also mixes things up even more.
02-03-2023, 01:28 PM
#704
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I understand the 6.4 +2 front axle is the same height as the 6.3 +3 height....is the difference in the new caster block or the new steering block?
I'm wanting to try the 6.4 caster with 6.3 steering block combo to make the front wider on carpet, and need to know how to achieve kit 6.4 +2 setting, thanks! (this worked well on the truck)
I'm wanting to try the 6.4 caster with 6.3 steering block combo to make the front wider on carpet, and need to know how to achieve kit 6.4 +2 setting, thanks! (this worked well on the truck)
02-03-2023, 11:26 PM
#705
I understand the 6.4 +2 front axle is the same height as the 6.3 +3 height....is the difference in the new caster block or the new steering block?
I'm wanting to try the 6.4 caster with 6.3 steering block combo to make the front wider on carpet, and need to know how to achieve kit 6.4 +2 setting, thanks! (this worked well on the truck)
I'm wanting to try the 6.4 caster with 6.3 steering block combo to make the front wider on carpet, and need to know how to achieve kit 6.4 +2 setting, thanks! (this worked well on the truck)