774LikesTeam Associated B6.4 and B6.4d
10-19-2023, 08:54 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
B6.3 / B6.3D and B6.4 / B6.4D Helpful Posts
B6.4 and B6.4D specific parts release list. https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...Parts-List.pdf Team Associated 1/10th Shock Length Quick Reference Chart https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=955 How to measure Shock Shafts https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=956 Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M. The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths Kit +2 axles 73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts Option 0 axles 73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts Why would you want to change the driveshaft length? It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle). The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car. Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement. When would you want to change this? Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas. To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit. On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks. The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...) What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms. Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!) The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners. Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections. Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall. So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is. 
|
01-16-2023, 03:47 PM
#676
Tech Adept
Kashima shock kits come with 23mm front shock shafts. You will either need to put 2mm internal limiters inside of the front shock bodies or buy 21mm shock shafts.
01-16-2023, 09:23 PM
#677
Tech Rookie
Hi all, my kit came with 2 #8680 ball bearings that I can't find any instructions on where they should go.. did anyone else run into this? I've been through the manual 3x and cannot find any usages of those particular bearings. Thanks!
01-16-2023, 10:40 PM
#678
Tech Addict
These are the internal ball bearings to the ball differential.
01-16-2023, 10:41 PM
#679
If you bought the carpet car with the gear diff, the two bearing left over are for the ball diff.
01-16-2023, 11:15 PM
#680
Tech Rookie
Thanks!
01-17-2023, 02:14 AM
#681
Tech Addict
01-17-2023, 05:57 AM
#682
why would you build kashima shocks without using the internals and shock ends you already have? Unless you plan on switching back and forth I dont see why you wouldnt rob those parts from the stock shocks..I know the chrome shafts are the "upgrade" but I prefer the TiN shafts, they seem to last longer.
01-17-2023, 07:42 AM
#684
Tech Initiate
Does anyone have a setup they would be willing to share for 2CRC in Idaho for a B6.4 17.5? I see a number of posts here from people who live in the area and race there. I’m just getting back into it after about 25 years away.
01-17-2023, 09:02 AM
#685
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I've heard that the steel electronics plate and servo plate help prevent traction rolling on carpet due to having a lot of weight low, which lowers CG.
1. is this true?
2. would running the steel front bulkhead also help?
3. would more or less anti-squat help?
1. is this true?
2. would running the steel front bulkhead also help?
3. would more or less anti-squat help?
01-17-2023, 11:23 AM
#686
Does anyone race at Radio Control Hobbies and Raceway in CT? I've been out of the hobby for over 30 years and want to race stock 17.5 class. Looking for B6.4 tips, gearing, any help would be appreciated. Thanks
01-17-2023, 05:47 PM
#688
I do. To my knowledge, the B6.4 with the kit setup (minus sway bars and a 7k 2 gear diff) is the way to go. I'll be getting one this week to replace my B6.2. For that track, schumacher mezzo rear tires and low profile cut staggers are the tires of choice. A Hobbywing justock esc is good enough for getting started and running for a while. 29 tooth pinion and 72 tooth spur is the standard there. If your just coming back, then most 17.5 motors will be good enough to get you into the groove. Radio Control Hobbies and Raceway (RCHR) has everything mentioned above and everything else for you to get up and running. They race 17.5 buggy on Wednesdays at 7PM and Saturdays at 5PM.
01-17-2023, 07:18 PM
#689
The steel bulkhead tends to give the car more front weight. I don't know if it helps traction rolling.
Anti-squat usually helps with on and off throttle. My experience, albeit on dirt, is that more anti-squat makes the car loose on throttle. Your experience may be different on carpet.
I think most people try and trim their tires or glue the sidewalls to prevent traction rolling, especially the front tires. Or they look for less aggressive tires. Another option would be to lower your ride height.
01-17-2023, 11:20 PM
#690
As mentioned, the extra weight is about getting the front to grip and rear to rotate.
Good luck