769LikesTeam Associated B6.4 and B6.4d
10-19-2023, 08:54 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
B6.3 / B6.3D and B6.4 / B6.4D Helpful Posts
B6.4 and B6.4D specific parts release list. https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...Parts-List.pdf Team Associated 1/10th Shock Length Quick Reference Chart https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=955 How to measure Shock Shafts https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=956 Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M. The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths Kit +2 axles 73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts Option 0 axles 73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts Why would you want to change the driveshaft length? It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle). The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car. Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement. When would you want to change this? Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas. To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit. On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks. The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...) What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms. Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!) The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners. Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections. Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall. So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is. 
|
02-25-2024, 11:23 AM
#1426
Tech Rookie
what motor/esc?
I just bought a rolling chassi of the Team Associated B6.4
I wonder which is the best motor/ESC for me? I will only run indoor on carpet and astro. I am going to run 2S but want the 3S capability. I have seen videos that a 7.5 turn motor would be good. I want to be able to program the ESC. Good value for the money, not the absolutely most expensive but it should be good quality.
I saw a youtube video that there was a good team corally motor and esc that should be good for this setup but i am open to all brands that are available here in europe
I wonder which is the best motor/ESC for me? I will only run indoor on carpet and astro. I am going to run 2S but want the 3S capability. I have seen videos that a 7.5 turn motor would be good. I want to be able to program the ESC. Good value for the money, not the absolutely most expensive but it should be good quality.
I saw a youtube video that there was a good team corally motor and esc that should be good for this setup but i am open to all brands that are available here in europe
02-25-2024, 11:50 AM
#1427
Tech Adept
I just bought a rolling chassi of the Team Associated B6.4
I wonder which is the best motor/ESC for me? I will only run indoor on carpet and astro. I am going to run 2S but want the 3S capability. I have seen videos that a 7.5 turn motor would be good. I want to be able to program the ESC. Good value for the money, not the absolutely most expensive but it should be good quality.
I saw a youtube video that there was a good team corally motor and esc that should be good for this setup but i am open to all brands that are available here in europe
I wonder which is the best motor/ESC for me? I will only run indoor on carpet and astro. I am going to run 2S but want the 3S capability. I have seen videos that a 7.5 turn motor would be good. I want to be able to program the ESC. Good value for the money, not the absolutely most expensive but it should be good quality.
I saw a youtube video that there was a good team corally motor and esc that should be good for this setup but i am open to all brands that are available here in europe
02-29-2024, 02:34 AM
#1428
Blacked out
Been tinkering with this for a bit. Finally got it all blacked out.
Seen other guys on here do this and I always wanted one. This buggy is a keeper. I don't collect many RC cars I usually sell them off but I'll be holding on to this one. I still regret selling my c4.2 that was all blacked out with CF chassis and similar looking.
Seen other guys on here do this and I always wanted one. This buggy is a keeper. I don't collect many RC cars I usually sell them off but I'll be holding on to this one. I still regret selling my c4.2 that was all blacked out with CF chassis and similar looking.
Last edited by 76jimmy; 02-29-2024 at 08:34 AM. Reason: Spelling
02-29-2024, 12:10 PM
#1429
Been tinkering with this for a bit. Finally got it all blacked out.
Seen other guys on here do this and I always wanted one. This buggy is a keeper. I don't collect many RC cars I usually sell them off but I'll be holding on to this one. I still regret selling my c4.2 that was all blacked out with CF chassis and similar looking.
Seen other guys on here do this and I always wanted one. This buggy is a keeper. I don't collect many RC cars I usually sell them off but I'll be holding on to this one. I still regret selling my c4.2 that was all blacked out with CF chassis and similar looking.
What did you use for steering, C and D blocks?
02-29-2024, 01:22 PM
#1430
For a medium sized, indoor, high bite clay track, which front arms do I need? I see there are "flat" arms, B6 arms, or B64 arms.
02-29-2024, 03:57 PM
#1431
But you just want gullwing plastic or carbon (slightly harder plastic). Flat arms arent used anymore.
02-29-2024, 04:34 PM
#1432
Looks like I have gullwing ones on mine. Just wanted to see which ones I should have spares of.
02-29-2024, 05:23 PM
#1434
All revolution Design. Nice stuff. I wanted black hexes but I was impatient so I just used oven cleaner on so e blue ones.
03-02-2024, 05:00 AM
#1435
Got out of the hobby back in 2014. Sold off all of my high speed junk. It’s been fun getting back into it the cheap way. Plus I have a son now to share the hobby with.
Last edited by Beasty Shout; 03-06-2024 at 07:23 PM.
03-03-2024, 11:32 AM
#1436
B6 4D Wet Car
Just converting my old b6 4 dry car to a wet car and have moved over the narrow pivots from my old b6.1d wet car. I have also moved across the 12mm shocks (planning on back to back testing with the 13mm shocks) and just remembered that the b6 1d were slightly longer with a different tower. Do you think it worth switching the tower over? The old b6.4 shocks used longer eyelets so I think they will be similar in overall length.
03-03-2024, 11:33 AM
#1437
The b6.1 dirt tower ending in 70 is the taller tower, but the carpet short tower ending in 69 I think is what most of us ran on high grip dirt. So if just check and see which you have but if I remember right thats the PN changes to look for.
03-04-2024, 05:12 AM
#1438
Tech Master
Just converting my old b6 4 dry car to a wet car and have moved over the narrow pivots from my old b6.1d wet car. I have also moved across the 12mm shocks (planning on back to back testing with the 13mm shocks) and just remembered that the b6 1d were slightly longer with a different tower. Do you think it worth switching the tower over? The old b6.4 shocks used longer eyelets so I think they will be similar in overall length.
Overall shock length is one thing but the main performance differences come from managing the balance of up-travel vs. down-travel. With the longer shock bodies + taller tower we could effectively run the piston less in to it's total travel for a given ride height which makes the damping more consistent in the normal range of motion. It is very subtle and only the very best drivers can exploit the difference in feel.
03-05-2024, 11:23 AM
#1439
Tech Rookie
Also, now I feel like a complete noob again and have two questions for the group if anyone can help:
1. Do you use the front lexan wing for a specific type of racing? I see it off most of the cars I have seen, so I was confused about when to use it or not.
2. I just got the chassis yesterday and I've started to look it over. It has no electronics in it, or wheels, etc. FYI.
I have looked for the info on this, but mine is behaving somewhat differently than the other posts I have seen about the transmission/slipper. When I rotate one rear axle, the other axle spins in the same direction (which I understand is correct with no motor in it), but when I hold the spur gear and try to rotate one axle, I can't rotate it at all. Is that the normal function?
03-06-2024, 02:06 AM
#1440
Looking good! I am in the exact same position. Getting back into racing after a bit over 10 years and bringing my 9 year old in to it as well. Grabbing a Pro2 SC10 RTR for him to learn with and I picked up a used B6.2 chassis I need to buy everything for to learn with. Thanks for sharing!
Also, now I feel like a complete noob again and have two questions for the group if anyone can help:
1. Do you use the front lexan wing for a specific type of racing? I see it off most of the cars I have seen, so I was confused about when to use it or not.
2. I just got the chassis yesterday and I've started to look it over. It has no electronics in it, or wheels, etc. FYI.
I have looked for the info on this, but mine is behaving somewhat differently than the other posts I have seen about the transmission/slipper. When I rotate one rear axle, the other axle spins in the same direction (which I understand is correct with no motor in it), but when I hold the spur gear and try to rotate one axle, I can't rotate it at all. Is that the normal function?
Also, now I feel like a complete noob again and have two questions for the group if anyone can help:
1. Do you use the front lexan wing for a specific type of racing? I see it off most of the cars I have seen, so I was confused about when to use it or not.
2. I just got the chassis yesterday and I've started to look it over. It has no electronics in it, or wheels, etc. FYI.
I have looked for the info on this, but mine is behaving somewhat differently than the other posts I have seen about the transmission/slipper. When I rotate one rear axle, the other axle spins in the same direction (which I understand is correct with no motor in it), but when I hold the spur gear and try to rotate one axle, I can't rotate it at all. Is that the normal function?
Re the diff, best to take it out and eork out if uts a ball diff or gear diff. You are correct it should spin the other way when you hold the spur gear. If it's a ball diff, new balls and a rebuild kit should have you sorted.
Good luck.