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Team Associated B6.4 and B6.4d

04-20-2022, 06:36 PM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.4 and B6.4d

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Last edit by: Kraig

B6.3 / B6.3D and B6.4 / B6.4D Helpful Posts

B6.4 and B6.4D specific parts release list.
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...Parts-List.pdf

Team Associated 1/10th Shock Length Quick Reference Chart
https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=955

How to measure Shock Shafts
https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=956

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

What is the difference between 2 gears and 4 gears in the gear diff?
Please read these posts by Roger M.

Maybe this has been answered but what are the little orings in diff do for tuning?
Please read these posts by Roger M.

Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M.

The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths

Kit +2 axles

73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts
75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts

Option 0 axles

73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts
75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts

Why would you want to change the driveshaft length?
It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle).
The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car.
Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement.

When would you want to change this?

Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas.
To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit.

On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks.
The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...)

What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms.
Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!)

The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners.

Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections.

Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall.

So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is.

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04-11-2022, 11:31 AM

Silverbullet555

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Team Associated B6.4 and B6.4d

Well, there it is.

RC10B6.4 Team Kit | Associated Electrics

czarc and Speed 8 like this.

04-11-2022, 12:13 PM

RazorRC

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13mm shocks? Hmm.

04-11-2022, 12:13 PM

mikeyscott

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I'll be ordering one just because

- hopefully there will be a carry over of parts. I imagine in the UK we'll be rocking with the short chassis again.

04-11-2022, 12:41 PM

walter white

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very cool to see a new car drop. looks like a decent amount of B6.3 parts will carry over. so all the spares on hand aren't obsolete. very bad decision on associated part calling it the B6.4 though. just made a huge nightmare for search engines. type associated B6.4 in google search right now all you get is B64 4wd stuff. can take google search 6 months to a year to learn the algorithm enough to understand the difference between B6.4 and B64.

bashir3, Blackplastic, aspiringracer and 2 others like this.

04-11-2022, 12:42 PM

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RazorRC

13mm shocks? Hmm.

I think tekno runs 13mm shocks on there 1/10 4wd buggy. Worse case give those running it and vice versa some more shock spring options.

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04-11-2022, 12:43 PM

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by walter white

Could be worse, heard of folks having "interesting" return results when looking for Losi's "XXX"

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04-11-2022, 12:49 PM

walter white

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

I think tekno runs 13mm shocks on there 1/10 4wd buggy. Worse case give those running it and vice versa some more shock spring options.

Schumacher has been 13mm for a while. springs are weird on the bottom though. probably need the Schumacher bottom cups to use there springs on the associated. hopefully associated will have a decent selection of 13mm springs.

04-11-2022, 12:50 PM

Piles

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Shame the opportunity to rid the car of the notchy gearbox wasn’t taken. And personally I would have liked to have seen the diff with more height adjustment.

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04-11-2022, 01:05 PM

mes

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Piles

Shame the opportunity to rid the car of the notchy gearbox wasn’t taken. And personally I would have liked to have seen the diff with more height adjustment.

With new shocks, new chassis and new front end, it would just have been a few details such as easy access swaybar and battery mounts, it would not have been hard to make it a B7. As the footprint of the chassis and body seems to be different, one can only wonder why. I bet some people will not be happy that their B6 series shells will not carry over although it is still called a 6 series buggy.

As it is, I still like what I see under the new body and hope that the kits will arrive sooner rather than later. ETA at the Ruddog Distribution HQ is the middle of May, which would be perfect for my vacation. My decision has not been made, but I might happen to build a dedicated rain car for the first time since the TLR 22 3.0 because my new club's track is notorious for bad luck with weather. 🙈

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04-11-2022, 01:16 PM

#10

Silverbullet555

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Quote:

Originally Posted by walter white

I thought the new car would be a B7 to make the clean break and not confuse the B64 searches.

04-11-2022, 01:30 PM

#11

Silverbullet555

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Lots of B6.3's just hit the market.

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04-11-2022, 01:52 PM

#12

RazorRC

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverbullet555

Lots of B6.3's just hit the market.

I sold mine last week.

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04-11-2022, 02:04 PM

#13

bagged17f350

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I sold mine 2 weeks ago! well all 3 of them lol

04-11-2022, 03:26 PM

#14

Silverbullet555

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RazorRC

I sold mine last week.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bagged17f350

I sold mine 2 weeks ago! well all 3 of them lol

Converting one to an oval car and upgrading my kid's B6.1.

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04-11-2022, 03:54 PM

#15

Molina336

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I’ve done so much to my 6.3 that I don’t know if this will benefit me much. Can 1mm shock difference really be that much? I just put the Willspeed -2mm bulkhead in, and I’ve done a lot to the rear end plus fox shocks, all carbon parts Revolution chassis. Might give it a bit.

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