774LikesTeam Associated B6.4 and B6.4d
10-19-2023, 08:54 AM - Wikipost
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B6.3 / B6.3D and B6.4 / B6.4D Helpful Posts
B6.4 and B6.4D specific parts release list. https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...Parts-List.pdf Team Associated 1/10th Shock Length Quick Reference Chart https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=955 How to measure Shock Shafts https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=956 Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M. The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths Kit +2 axles 73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts Option 0 axles 73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts Why would you want to change the driveshaft length? It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle). The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car. Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement. When would you want to change this? Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas. To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit. On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks. The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...) What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms. Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!) The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners. Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections. Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall. So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is. 
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02-11-2023, 01:06 PM
#722
Tech Initiate
The silly things are the easiest to check. I'd start with batteries. Not just the car battery, but your transmitter. You can also check all the connections to make sure they are not loose and none of the wires are frayed.
02-13-2023, 06:51 PM
#723
Tech Initiate
What oil weight are you running with the 2.5 pistons and 1.7 front 1.8 rear?
02-14-2023, 05:28 AM
#724
Tech Adept
02-15-2023, 01:20 PM
#725
I finished building a brand new b6.4 after upgrading from a b6.1 about a week ago. I gutted the b6.1 and transferred the same electronics over tot he b6.4. My first thoughts were the b6.4 definitely has a ton more corner speed than the older b6.1. However it definitely feels more chunky if that's the right way to describe. It felt heavier and more sluggish to accelerate. I guess it is intrinsically a heavier car with the 13mm shocks and the longer chassis. Is this consistent with what others have seen? Maybe I need a motor upgrade? I'm running the justock esc with the hobbywing G3R 17.5t motor tuned to pull ~6 amps. Mostly stock everywhere. Car weighed in at 1520 grams on the track scale. Racing on CRC black carpet as well.
02-15-2023, 02:41 PM
#726
Has anyone on here tried using the Vision carbon chassis in their B6.4d? Thoughts on it would be appreciated - I typically run on clay.
Thanks
Thanks
02-15-2023, 03:25 PM
#727
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I never understood why people like using carbon chassis on a car that is already so close to minimum weight...the aluminum chassis puts weight low which helps to keep center of gravity low, a very important part of tuning the car. Not to mention how expensive the carbon chassis are...
02-17-2023, 06:25 AM
#728
Sorry if this has been asked before. Going to picked up a B6.4, but wanted to know what spare parts i should have on hand? Obviously front arms, but some local guys are telling me front shock towers? If that’s the case should I go with aluminum? Also what would be the 3 or 4 must upgrades to have? Any help is appreciated.
02-17-2023, 07:06 AM
#729
Sorry if this has been asked before. Going to picked up a B6.4, but wanted to know what spare parts i should have on hand? Obviously front arms, but some local guys are telling me front shock towers? If that’s the case should I go with aluminum? Also what would be the 3 or 4 must upgrades to have? Any help is appreciated.
From there I'd just have the usual suspension parts on hand, a-arms, hubs, steering blocks. Start with 1 or 2 of each and if you find you are breaking certain items more just pick up extras of that. Better to have it on hand that hope someone in the pits will or the hobbyshop if there is one has it on the wall.
02-17-2023, 09:41 AM
#730
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Sorry if this has been asked before. Going to picked up a B6.4, but wanted to know what spare parts i should have on hand? Obviously front arms, but some local guys are telling me front shock towers? If that’s the case should I go with aluminum? Also what would be the 3 or 4 must upgrades to have? Any help is appreciated.
And the for 6.4 I'd highly suggest the aluminum front bulkhead.
02-18-2023, 05:32 AM
#731
Minimum for me was alumn bulkhead, alumn steering and servo horn, ceramic bearings. Then better turnbuckles and Ti screws. Beyond that consider Ti drive slipper shaft, carbon servo brace, and FT hard carbon for any of those areas you break.
02-18-2023, 05:55 AM
#732
Sorry if this has been asked before. Going to picked up a B6.4, but wanted to know what spare parts i should have on hand? Obviously front arms, but some local guys are telling me front shock towers? If that’s the case should I go with aluminum? Also what would be the 3 or 4 must upgrades to have? Any help is appreciated.
Front arms would be the next most common and an aluminum bulkhead as the plastic ones break.
Upgrades: Initially the machined internal shock spacers and the bulkhead I mentioned above.
Buy an aluminum servo horn but don't put it on until you break the plastic one.
I'd run the plastic steering components for a while until you get better if you're new at this. They do absorb some impact.
3.5MM turnbuckles
That's it for club racing.
02-19-2023, 06:44 PM
#733
GREAT info, thanks!
It sounds like the easiest solution for those (like me) who don't want to block up holes, drilling 2 additional 1.0 or 1.1 holes in the pistons may be the best bet. Would you recommend sticking with kit pistons (2x1.6F/2x1.7R) and then drilling 2x1.0 in the front and 2x1.1 in the rear? Would your recommendation change for carpet/astro/clay?
How are you blocking the holes when using the 3 hole pistons?
How long until AE comes out with blank 13mm pistons?
Does anyone have a good piston drilling set they recommend?
It sounds like the easiest solution for those (like me) who don't want to block up holes, drilling 2 additional 1.0 or 1.1 holes in the pistons may be the best bet. Would you recommend sticking with kit pistons (2x1.6F/2x1.7R) and then drilling 2x1.0 in the front and 2x1.1 in the rear? Would your recommendation change for carpet/astro/clay?
How are you blocking the holes when using the 3 hole pistons?
How long until AE comes out with blank 13mm pistons?
Does anyone have a good piston drilling set they recommend?
02-19-2023, 08:41 PM
#734
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
I never understood why people like using carbon chassis on a car that is already so close to minimum weight...the aluminum chassis puts weight low which helps to keep center of gravity low, a very important part of tuning the car. Not to mention how expensive the carbon chassis are...