773LikesTeam Associated B6.4 and B6.4d
10-19-2023, 08:54 AM - Wikipost
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B6.3 / B6.3D and B6.4 / B6.4D Helpful Posts
B6.4 and B6.4D specific parts release list. https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...Parts-List.pdf Team Associated 1/10th Shock Length Quick Reference Chart https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=955 How to measure Shock Shafts https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=956 Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M. The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths Kit +2 axles 73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts Option 0 axles 73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts Why would you want to change the driveshaft length? It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle). The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car. Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement. When would you want to change this? Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas. To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit. On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks. The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...) What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms. Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!) The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners. Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections. Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall. So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is. 
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11-23-2022, 05:46 AM
#541
Anyone ever have issues with your aluminum servo horn having slop? The horn was a brand new Associated aluminum 25t I put on a Futaba servo. I put a drop of loctite like normal and tightened down the screw.
No matter what I do, it has slop, I can actually see the horn moving almost front to back but at an angle. So its not really front to back or side to side but at an angle when you turn the wheels by hand holding onto the tires.
I thought the horn was loose, not the case, the screw is tight but the horn almost fits too loose I guess.
It makes me crazy with this much slop in the steering, was debating trying a different servo to see it it is better with a Savox vs. the Futaba in it now.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
No matter what I do, it has slop, I can actually see the horn moving almost front to back but at an angle. So its not really front to back or side to side but at an angle when you turn the wheels by hand holding onto the tires.
I thought the horn was loose, not the case, the screw is tight but the horn almost fits too loose I guess.
It makes me crazy with this much slop in the steering, was debating trying a different servo to see it it is better with a Savox vs. the Futaba in it now.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
11-23-2022, 06:27 AM
#542
Anyone ever have issues with your aluminum servo horn having slop? The horn was a brand new Associated aluminum 25t I put on a Futaba servo. I put a drop of loctite like normal and tightened down the screw.
No matter what I do, it has slop, I can actually see the horn moving almost front to back but at an angle. So its not really front to back or side to side but at an angle when you turn the wheels by hand holding onto the tires.
I thought the horn was loose, not the case, the screw is tight but the horn almost fits too loose I guess.
It makes me crazy with this much slop in the steering, was debating trying a different servo to see it it is better with a Savox vs. the Futaba in it now.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
No matter what I do, it has slop, I can actually see the horn moving almost front to back but at an angle. So its not really front to back or side to side but at an angle when you turn the wheels by hand holding onto the tires.
I thought the horn was loose, not the case, the screw is tight but the horn almost fits too loose I guess.
It makes me crazy with this much slop in the steering, was debating trying a different servo to see it it is better with a Savox vs. the Futaba in it now.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
11-23-2022, 06:33 AM
#543
I have noticed this enough times to start using only the pinch bolt style like ASC1370 rather than ASC1366. First, make sure the screw holding the horn to the servo is not too long allowing it to bottom-out in the servo threads before clamping the horn to the servo. Lastly, you can try pinching some Teflon tape or similar between the horn and the servo to take up play as an effort to use what you have.
Thanks for the pointers. I too see a pinch type servo horn in my future.
Thumbs up
11-23-2022, 07:21 AM
#544
It kept them from traction rolling while others still were
11-23-2022, 02:06 PM
#546
If it's not enforced use whatever you want I guess.
11-24-2022, 08:51 PM
#547
Anyone ever have issues with your aluminum servo horn having slop? The horn was a brand new Associated aluminum 25t I put on a Futaba servo. I put a drop of loctite like normal and tightened down the screw.
No matter what I do, it has slop, I can actually see the horn moving almost front to back but at an angle. So its not really front to back or side to side but at an angle when you turn the wheels by hand holding onto the tires.
I thought the horn was loose, not the case, the screw is tight but the horn almost fits too loose I guess.
It makes me crazy with this much slop in the steering, was debating trying a different servo to see it it is better with a Savox vs. the Futaba in it now.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
No matter what I do, it has slop, I can actually see the horn moving almost front to back but at an angle. So its not really front to back or side to side but at an angle when you turn the wheels by hand holding onto the tires.
I thought the horn was loose, not the case, the screw is tight but the horn almost fits too loose I guess.
It makes me crazy with this much slop in the steering, was debating trying a different servo to see it it is better with a Savox vs. the Futaba in it now.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
11-24-2022, 11:04 PM
#548
Tech Initiate
Got myself a bit confused. On the b6.4d kit set up is the laydown gearbox (91791) What is the other gearbox included with the kit? The stand-up (91788) or the layback (91790)? Will the gearbox not included in the kit fit the 6.4d?
11-24-2022, 11:19 PM
#549
The dirt model used to come with the laydown and layback gearboxes, the layback moves the motor back for more rear weight.
11-25-2022, 12:19 AM
#550
Tech Apprentice
11-25-2022, 08:22 AM
#551
Tech Initiate
Got it. Thank you. I'm guessing the stand-up gearbox (91788) won't fit the b6.4d? Acociated's website doesn't list it as compatible.
11-25-2022, 10:11 AM
#552
It should be compatible, someone just hasnt officially listed it. The .4 has the same holes in the back of the chassis as my .2s and the .3s so it should just bolt on.
Although it'll help, a layback transmission and the correct tires will be better than the standup transmission and the wrong tires. Maybe try the AKA impacts if its a loose type track, they can work REALLY well on those surfaces.
Although it'll help, a layback transmission and the correct tires will be better than the standup transmission and the wrong tires. Maybe try the AKA impacts if its a loose type track, they can work REALLY well on those surfaces.
11-25-2022, 02:18 PM
#553
Tech Initiate
I appreciate all the help, thank you. The track I am on seems to be either grove or super fluffy, like baseball field fluffy. The real problem is that I am not a good enough driver to stay out of that super fluff. Practice Practice Practice.
11-25-2022, 07:36 PM
#554
Tech Adept
How is steering affected when removing the 1mm washer from the steering rack that the ballstud connects to? I've seen setups with 0mm, 1mm (stock), and 2mm.
11-25-2022, 10:34 PM
#555
By removing one or two washers allows the outside wheel to turn more in relation to the inside (less akerman effect). I tried this out last time on medium high grip carpet and it gives more steering. With the washer in the steering is smoother and I believe in lower grip (where its easy to overload the outsidecwheel) should generate more steering.