1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
|
06-13-2018, 01:42 PM
#1306
Hello all
About fan placement on B6.1D, which probably been discussed here previously, i have to cut the rear part of my side guard in order to out a motor fan
Is there any fan mount that will let us put a motor fan without cutting here and there and also clear the body well?
My second question
I just did my first race with my B6.1D last weekend
I found out that my front end got a better grip so the rear end got side ways when entering corner
Latter i tried to move upper shock mounts to the most inner holes and it seemed to fix the problem
Is this the correct way to overcome the problem or did i altered to much geometry on the car?
Thank you all for sharing
About fan placement on B6.1D, which probably been discussed here previously, i have to cut the rear part of my side guard in order to out a motor fan
Is there any fan mount that will let us put a motor fan without cutting here and there and also clear the body well?
My second question
I just did my first race with my B6.1D last weekend
I found out that my front end got a better grip so the rear end got side ways when entering corner
Latter i tried to move upper shock mounts to the most inner holes and it seemed to fix the problem
Is this the correct way to overcome the problem or did i altered to much geometry on the car?
Thank you all for sharing
The big question is did it fix the issue you had with handling. If it did, you did the right thing… for a short term fix. Any change you make has other things that it affects. There may be a better way to accomplish your goal w/ different side effects.
To give you a VERY generalized, not holey accurate, but relevant blanket statement, increasing resistance to chassis roll (stiffness) decreases traction. More specific, increasing resistance to chassis roll (stiffness) at 1 end moves traction balance to the other end. Moving the top mount, of the front shock in increases the effective stiffness of the spring. This moves the traction balance towards the rear of the car. You can also change the sway bar (if any…), or change the roll center, or change the center of gravity (cog) by moving weight around. All of these are different ways to change the chassis roll & therefore the traction balance. Each has a different side effect on other aspects of vehicle dynamics. For a MUCH more in depth discussion, look up “tunning with camber links” featuring fredswain & an alternate method to set up a car.
06-13-2018, 09:00 PM
#1307
Just picked up a b6.1d is there any must have upgraded??? Ordered the rear alum hubs and brass c block, running on hard packed dirt, medium grip... 13.5 motor
06-13-2018, 11:41 PM
#1308
Hello all
About fan placement on B6.1D, which probably been discussed here previously, i have to cut the rear part of my side guard in order to out a motor fan
Is there any fan mount that will let us put a motor fan without cutting here and there and also clear the body well?
My second question
I just did my first race with my B6.1D last weekend
I found out that my front end got a better grip so the rear end got side ways when entering corner
Latter i tried to move upper shock mounts to the most inner holes and it seemed to fix the problem
Is this the correct way to overcome the problem or did i altered to much geometry on the car?
Thank you all for sharing
About fan placement on B6.1D, which probably been discussed here previously, i have to cut the rear part of my side guard in order to out a motor fan
Is there any fan mount that will let us put a motor fan without cutting here and there and also clear the body well?
My second question
I just did my first race with my B6.1D last weekend
I found out that my front end got a better grip so the rear end got side ways when entering corner
Latter i tried to move upper shock mounts to the most inner holes and it seemed to fix the problem
Is this the correct way to overcome the problem or did i altered to much geometry on the car?
Thank you all for sharing
06-14-2018, 03:01 AM
#1309
The WTF 30mm fan fits perfect on the chassis with out cutting anything. Mount it with tape and stick it down along the same angle as the chassis. The body fits right over it. It may bulge it out just a hair but not enough to hurt anything.
Or or you can get the new fan mount from Schelle. It’s made for their battery strap. But the stock plastic one has a hole that can be used also. The fan just doesn’t sit as close as it would with the Schelle strap. But it works just as well. The one screw holds the mount in place also.
Or or you can get the new fan mount from Schelle. It’s made for their battery strap. But the stock plastic one has a hole that can be used also. The fan just doesn’t sit as close as it would with the Schelle strap. But it works just as well. The one screw holds the mount in place also.
06-14-2018, 06:42 AM
#1310
Tech Apprentice
Hideeho
The big question is did it fix the issue you had with handling. If it did, you did the right thing… for a short term fix. Any change you make has other things that it affects. There may be a better way to accomplish your goal w/ different side effects.
To give you a VERY generalized, not holey accurate, but relevant blanket statement, increasing resistance to chassis roll (stiffness) decreases traction. More specific, increasing resistance to chassis roll (stiffness) at 1 end moves traction balance to the other end. Moving the top mount, of the front shock in increases the effective stiffness of the spring. This moves the traction balance towards the rear of the car. You can also change the sway bar (if any…), or change the roll center, or change the center of gravity (cog) by moving weight around. All of these are different ways to change the chassis roll & therefore the traction balance. Each has a different side effect on other aspects of vehicle dynamics. For a MUCH more in depth discussion, look up “tunning with camber links” featuring fredswain & an alternate method to set up a car.
The big question is did it fix the issue you had with handling. If it did, you did the right thing… for a short term fix. Any change you make has other things that it affects. There may be a better way to accomplish your goal w/ different side effects.
To give you a VERY generalized, not holey accurate, but relevant blanket statement, increasing resistance to chassis roll (stiffness) decreases traction. More specific, increasing resistance to chassis roll (stiffness) at 1 end moves traction balance to the other end. Moving the top mount, of the front shock in increases the effective stiffness of the spring. This moves the traction balance towards the rear of the car. You can also change the sway bar (if any…), or change the roll center, or change the center of gravity (cog) by moving weight around. All of these are different ways to change the chassis roll & therefore the traction balance. Each has a different side effect on other aspects of vehicle dynamics. For a MUCH more in depth discussion, look up “tunning with camber links” featuring fredswain & an alternate method to set up a car.
06-14-2018, 06:44 AM
#1311
Tech Apprentice
I already did because couldn't figured out a better way to do it
06-14-2018, 07:48 AM
#1312
Brushed motors create more of a drag brake effect. The B6.1 was never designed to run with a brushed motor, so you are going to have a bunch of extra steering because the drag of the brushed motor is going to make weight transfer forward as you let off for a corner. If you had something other than a cheap HW brushed speed control, you might be able to get rid of some of that extra drag brake. Mid-motor cars have plenty of steering already, so extra drag brake from a brushed motor is only going to make the car harder to drive.
Adjusting the upper shock position is going to change how the car jumps and how the car corners. As long as your car still handles the jumps how you like after you made the change, then you are okay. Instead of making that adjustment, I would tell you to use less steering input going into corners.
Adjusting the upper shock position is going to change how the car jumps and how the car corners. As long as your car still handles the jumps how you like after you made the change, then you are okay. Instead of making that adjustment, I would tell you to use less steering input going into corners.
06-14-2018, 08:05 AM
#1313
Brushed motors create more of a drag brake effect. The B6.1 was never designed to run with a brushed motor, so you are going to have a bunch of extra steering because the drag of the brushed motor is going to make weight transfer forward as you let off for a corner. If you had something other than a cheap HW brushed speed control, you might be able to get rid of some of that extra drag brake. Mid-motor cars have plenty of steering already, so extra drag brake from a brushed motor is only going to make the car harder to drive.
Adjusting the upper shock position is going to change how the car jumps and how the car corners. As long as your car still handles the jumps how you like after you made the change, then you are okay. Instead of making that adjustment, I would tell you to use less steering input going into corners.
Adjusting the upper shock position is going to change how the car jumps and how the car corners. As long as your car still handles the jumps how you like after you made the change, then you are okay. Instead of making that adjustment, I would tell you to use less steering input going into corners.
06-14-2018, 08:30 AM
#1314
Tech Master
The new springs are wound with a different wire grade so they can have a larger inter-coil gap (less coils) which gives a much more "progressive feel" on the track. This isn't to be confused with true progressive spring, that is a different animal all together.
The V2 springs make the car feel more agile and direct, carry more corner speed along with jumping and landing better.
In low grip conditions the more linear nature of the V1 springs will find more grip at the expense of the other features above but if grip is really that low then those are the characteristics that you'd be looking for anyway.
I run the V2 springs on everything apart from my wet astroturf setups now where I still use the V1 springs, believe me wet astro is about as low-grip a surface as you'll ever drive an RC car on!
As for spring selection the difference in the apparent stiffnesses of the V1 anf V2 springs is more down to a combination of the fact the measurements are taken over the majority of the full compression travel of the spring and the 'progressive feel' nature of the new winding styles rather than AE suddenly making major changes to their spring rates.
If you go colour-for-colour and ignore the rates you'll not go far wrong and the overall balance of your car will remain as you are used to. I'd not try mixing V1 & V2 springs on the same car though.
Hope that helps.
The V2 springs make the car feel more agile and direct, carry more corner speed along with jumping and landing better.
In low grip conditions the more linear nature of the V1 springs will find more grip at the expense of the other features above but if grip is really that low then those are the characteristics that you'd be looking for anyway.
I run the V2 springs on everything apart from my wet astroturf setups now where I still use the V1 springs, believe me wet astro is about as low-grip a surface as you'll ever drive an RC car on!
As for spring selection the difference in the apparent stiffnesses of the V1 anf V2 springs is more down to a combination of the fact the measurements are taken over the majority of the full compression travel of the spring and the 'progressive feel' nature of the new winding styles rather than AE suddenly making major changes to their spring rates.
If you go colour-for-colour and ignore the rates you'll not go far wrong and the overall balance of your car will remain as you are used to. I'd not try mixing V1 & V2 springs on the same car though.
Hope that helps.
06-14-2018, 08:51 AM
#1315
Yeah, I usually run 10-15% drag brake on my 2wd, but that is on high grip tracks. He is racing in Indonesia, I would bet his track is not high grip.
06-14-2018, 06:08 PM
#1316
I have run roughly the same amount of drag brake in my cars since the 90's. I picked settings that mimicked my brushed setup when I switched to brushless. I've always found that some amount is necessary for weight transfer & steering.
06-15-2018, 05:25 AM
#1317
Tech Apprentice
Brushed motors create more of a drag brake effect. The B6.1 was never designed to run with a brushed motor, so you are going to have a bunch of extra steering because the drag of the brushed motor is going to make weight transfer forward as you let off for a corner. If you had something other than a cheap HW brushed speed control, you might be able to get rid of some of that extra drag brake. Mid-motor cars have plenty of steering already, so extra drag brake from a brushed motor is only going to make the car harder to drive.
Adjusting the upper shock position is going to change how the car jumps and how the car corners. As long as your car still handles the jumps how you like after you made the change, then you are okay. Instead of making that adjustment, I would tell you to use less steering input going into corners.
Adjusting the upper shock position is going to change how the car jumps and how the car corners. As long as your car still handles the jumps how you like after you made the change, then you are okay. Instead of making that adjustment, I would tell you to use less steering input going into corners.
You have to constantly give a throttle to make the car easier to handle in corners
I tried using big pinion to lessen the drag brake effect and it seemed to work okay
What i am trying to say is the drag brake effect is there but not as bad as i thought it would be
06-15-2018, 05:29 AM
#1318
Tech Apprentice
Tracks here are all low grip and some are combine with dry loose and dusty, and so running drag brake intentionaly set from esc is undesireable
06-15-2018, 06:35 AM
#1319
To overcome the drag brake you can move you throttle trim to the high side on your radio to put some “creep” in the car.
Move the trim until the car moves forward from a stop and no trigger input. Then back the trim back a few clicks
Move the trim until the car moves forward from a stop and no trigger input. Then back the trim back a few clicks
06-15-2018, 06:47 AM
#1320
I highly recommend against doing this. It can prematurely wear out your electronics. Sitting at 0 rpm produces a system with basically 0 resistance (less than 0.1 ohms) and the fets switching and sending power to the motor at high frequency results in relatively large current spikes producing voltage ripples that aren't great for the battery or capacitors. Plus the FETs are switching at a time when they would normally be off.