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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

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Old 02-25-2019, 02:03 PM
  #2476  
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Originally Posted by trigger
Besides the quick diff access, are the any differences between the b6.1 and the b6 suspension geometry? sorry for silly question.
I believe the new B6.1 rear A-arms are swept forward more as well as a bit different geometry on the rear tower.
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Old 02-26-2019, 09:56 AM
  #2477  
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I just built my kit and I have a question about the shocks. I searched and couldn't find anyone else asking this, but searching up shocks or mounting, etc comes up with a lot of results.
The shocks seem to have a lot of play in them. I have checked the manual several times and seem to be using the right shock bushing mounts, but I am able to wiggle the shocks back and forth. The other few kits from different manufacturers I have built have never done this. Both the front and rear shocks are the same way. Is this how it is supposed to be or did I miss something? Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:19 AM
  #2478  
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Being able to move the shocks forward and back on the shock tower is pretty normal for this car. As long as there isn't excessive up and down play, you are good.

Last edited by Krio; 02-26-2019 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:39 AM
  #2479  
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Originally Posted by CaptainOne
I just built my kit and I have a question about the shocks. I searched and couldn't find anyone else asking this, but searching up shocks or mounting, etc comes up with a lot of results.
The shocks seem to have a lot of play in them. I have checked the manual several times and seem to be using the right shock bushing mounts, but I am able to wiggle the shocks back and forth. The other few kits from different manufacturers I have built have never done this. Both the front and rear shocks are the same way. Is this how it is supposed to be or did I miss something? Thanks.

Assuming you mean the shock moves freely on the shock tower and the wishbone; then this is a desirable trait. All the shocks should be free on the tower and wishbone at full extension (maximum droop) and also at full compression. (Chasis bottoming out)
If they dont do this, especially at some point through the compression, then the shock shaft is being pushed along a different plane than the shock body and the piston will bind within the shock body. Some Yokomo cars of late have these issues.
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Old 02-26-2019, 01:30 PM
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Thank you both for the reply. My RB6.6 only has a little bit of play at the shock tower mount and my Serpent SRX2 has them tight without any movement on the rear shock tower and only a little play on the front shocks. I feel safe running it now since it is normal. Thanks again.
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:14 AM
  #2481  
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Looking for a roller at a responsible price!
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:21 AM
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Has anyone found a pair of Ball Link Pliers that work with the RC10B6.1 Ball cups?
I don't like using long nose pliers since they scratch everything up.
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Old 02-27-2019, 10:45 AM
  #2483  
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Originally Posted by ChrisK11
Has anyone found a pair of Ball Link Pliers that work with the RC10B6.1 Ball cups?
I don't like using long nose pliers since they scratch everything up.
They should be easy enough to pop on with your fingers! Try that before using pliers.
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Old 02-27-2019, 12:41 PM
  #2484  
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Originally Posted by Prostreet314


I believe the new B6.1 rear A-arms are swept forward more as well as a bit different geometry on the rear tower.
nope, exact same geometry. B6.1 rear shock tower is 2mm lower to compensate gearbox height
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Old 02-27-2019, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by b1narych0ice
They should be easy enough to pop on with your fingers! Try that before using pliers.
If you can remove them that easy (with fingers) you need to replace your Ball Cups.
Pliers would also help with the steering links, sway bar links, etc.
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisK11
Has anyone found a pair of Ball Link Pliers that work with the RC10B6.1 Ball cups?
I don't like using long nose pliers since they scratch everything up.
Put heat shrink over the jaws of your pliers.
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Old 03-01-2019, 08:40 AM
  #2487  
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I couldn’t figure out a good way of mounting the fan on the chassis so I made this mount from an old b44 rear bumper I had lying around. It’s my version of the Schelle mount. It worked perfectly and is very secure.
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Old 03-01-2019, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by fazznick
I couldn’t figure out a good way of mounting the fan on the chassis so I made this mount from an old b44 rear bumper I had lying around. It’s my version of the Schelle mount. It worked perfectly and is very secure.
That is exactly what I did but mine is on just a folded plastic part of an old credit card. Looks ghetto vs yours but same idea. I have put in many practice nights and races with it and it has never failed.. I did it as a temp solution but to my amazement it just holds on. DIY free solutions that work are the best. It is like they put that whole in the battery strap just for that purpose.. I could not figure out what else it would be for?

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Old 03-01-2019, 10:43 AM
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A popular modification at one point was to use a turnbuckle between the battery brace and transmission in place of the chassis brace/waterfall. This would allow you to move the battery further back. Was definitely more common with the B6 and the laydown transmission. The 6.1d with the layback kind of fixed the weight bias that people were trying to get with that mod.

The original B6 battery holder didn't have the hole. They made a running change before the 6.1 was released.

Last edited by Krio; 03-01-2019 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:07 PM
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The turnbuckle vs the waterfall also allowed more flex and it helped the steering feel of the car
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