1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
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01-14-2019, 09:25 AM
#2296
The 6.1 with a ball diff would be really good on medium to high bite clay. The question would be how much setup change between conditions would you be willing to tolerate. My understanding of carpet racing (don't race it myself) leads me to believe that the base setup would be very different, with diff height, axle height/roll center, and spring rates/ride height all being different. That might get tiresome after a while.
Thanks again!
01-14-2019, 09:43 AM
#2297
Tech Addict
The 6.1d comes with the taller tower and shocks but many people racing on clay do fine with the shorter shocks and lay down that come with the carpet version. It would be possible to just buy the carpet version and swap stuff over for different tracks but like David said, it would be an inconvenience.
01-14-2019, 09:56 AM
#2298
I drive at a high bite clay track and there are plenty of 6.1's running there. I actually converted my 6.1D to a gear diff but I used the xray composite gears. Depending on how smooth your clay track is the 6.1 should be fine. You casn unhook the sway bars on one side and swap tires and go. If it doesnt work out and the changes are too much just purchase the D.
01-14-2019, 10:25 AM
#2299
Thank you for the feedback and you are right about the setup differences. I do find I make adjustments to those somewhat regularly even running dedicated cars so it may not be too bad. I'll look at some of the Associated setup sheets for carpet and clay. If they aren't too far off it may be workable. Worst case is I just end up with dedicated cars like I have now.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
you only need to change to ball diff ... shock springs ... take out front and rear anti roll bars ,and of course change your settings from carpet to clay.
Don't forget tires too.
01-14-2019, 10:30 AM
#2300
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
Hey All, I am considering making the switch to Associated for 2wd buggy. I run primarily carpet with some high bite clay thrown in. Currently running a dedicated car for each. Wondering how suitable the 6.1 factory team would be for pulling dual duty? I was thinking of picking up the FT for carpet and a ball diff and maybe a few other parts for when I want to run clay. Anyone doing this with success? It would be nice to consolidate my cars a bit but if the dirt car is significantly better on clay I'd likely just get one of each.
Thanks
Thanks
01-14-2019, 02:55 PM
#2301
When carpet off road first popped up in our area several years ago, I'd treat it as a seasonal thing. Indoor during the cold months, outdoor when the sun was shining. It wasn't too tough at the time to spend a weekend swapping a few parts, tweaking settings in order to set the car up for the new season. A few things have happened since then that have kinda "forced" me to buy in to separate chassis for carpet and dirt. A jack-of-all-trades car just isn't cutting it for me anymore with most manufacturers now offering carpet specific cars with setups that are at the opposite end of the spectrum as compared to their dirt counterparts. I tried doing this with the 22 4.0, and the hassle (gearbox setup, shocks, pretty much every suspension setting, electronics layout to move weight forward, etc...) and cost of converting the car from dirt to carpet ($70 for the gear diff alone) made me decide to leave the car in carpet mode and just buy a separate dirt chassis. The changes are just too broad between carpet and most dirt surfaces. Of course there are exceptions, but more often than not, you're going to make life easier (albeit more expensive) by having separate cars.
We now have one outdoor track that's open during warmer months, and several carpet tracks that are open all year long. The dirt track is open every two weeks, each carpet track is open several days every week. Having multiple cars allows me the option to grab and go with whatever I feel like running that day. I don't care who you are, changing over a car setup to do something similar would suck.
We now have one outdoor track that's open during warmer months, and several carpet tracks that are open all year long. The dirt track is open every two weeks, each carpet track is open several days every week. Having multiple cars allows me the option to grab and go with whatever I feel like running that day. I don't care who you are, changing over a car setup to do something similar would suck.
01-15-2019, 03:19 AM
#2302
Hey guys, I have a B6.1D and I have decided to run on carpet. I wont be running dirt and carpet at the same time, so I will just swap stuff a couple times a year for now (and if I do I will just buy another one!). Anyway, for the B6.1D I have bought the B6.1 gear diff, laydown, and F&R sway bars. I have a question on the rear tower and shock bodies. Is it worth it to buy the low shock tower and short shock bodies? I have also heard of B6.1 guys running the long bodies with the short tower, so is that an option? Thank you!
01-15-2019, 04:50 AM
#2303
Tech Master
Hello from the UK new owner from of a B6.1 awesome car.
Just got a couple of set up questions.
The trailing arms come with 3 and 4mm what are the difference in running them.
Wing position has the option to run the wing further back what does that do from kit position.
Seen the likes of Neil Cragg running the Flat front arms from the 6.1d and also runs B64 rear arms again what’s the differences from kit.
Apologies if these have been covered in earlier posts
John
Just got a couple of set up questions.
The trailing arms come with 3 and 4mm what are the difference in running them.
Wing position has the option to run the wing further back what does that do from kit position.
Seen the likes of Neil Cragg running the Flat front arms from the 6.1d and also runs B64 rear arms again what’s the differences from kit.
Apologies if these have been covered in earlier posts
John
Wing position;
Simply put the further the wing is spaced back the more leverage it has so the more effect it will have.
Running the wing back is useful if your car is flying a little too nose down for example.
On lower grip but fast tracks running the wing spaced back is preferable to using a steeper angle/higher gurney flap as it gives you the increased loading effect without any more drag to slow the car down
Steering axle trail;
The more axle trail you have the more stable the car is.
On high grip tracks where reducing castor would make the car too twitchy using less axle trail can give you the improved direction change without feeling as nervous as reduced castor and actually loses less late corner steering too.
Run the 4mm trail axles unless you feel the car needs better direction change such as a small track with lots of chicanes or similar.
Flat Vs Gullwing front arms;
This is a "feel" related thing on high grip surfaces, very track and driver dependant. It is all about where in the corner the car generates the highest steering load.
Basically the flat arms give you more initial steering at the expense of mid-exit steering. A lot of us use them on EOS carpet because there is so much grip available the car barely pushes at any speed but equally the rear is so locked it is difficult to get the car to enter the corner with gullwings.
Gullwings give you less initial but more mid-exit steering.
If the track is open and flowing where confidence is everything and / or you feel the front is pushing mid-exit then go to the gullwings.
If the track is tight and direction change is everything in terms of laptime then bolt on the flat arms.
Always use the correct tower for the arms.
B64 hard rear arms on B6.1;
This is a bit of a hangover from the B6 on EOS carpet, which incidentally is the only place I would normally run B64 arms.
There are a couple of reasons why you might want to try this;
1) they have a very different flex characteristic to the B6.1 hard harms and actually improve the way the car lands from big jumps on to the flat landings as often found on EOS style tracks, this is more apparent the harder the surface is the carpet is laid on top of!
This flex characteristic also helps unlock the rear a little
2) they provide a little longer wheelbase which helps rotation on high grip carpet by effectively moving the weight forward in the now longer wheelbase unlocking the rear further. The B6.1 generates a ton of rear grip, it is why some of the guys are down on 1deg of rear toe too.
Now a bonus answer to a question you didn't ask .... driveshaft dogbone length...
A few of us prefer the shorter 65mm bone on EOS carpet as it helps support the car on power giving more rotation, the drivers that like it tend to be those that prefer the car to rotate a bit harder as you get on power rather than gaining forward bite and thus push/understeer. This is totally a driver based thing but if you feel your B6.1 is still too locked in on EOS carpet then they are worth a try rather than messing with crazy roll-centres etc.which could effect other areas of the handling package.
I hope that helps, if you need anything else please let me know, always happy to help anyone, especially another Brit.
01-16-2019, 05:51 AM
#2304
Tech Initiate
Hopefully I can help.
Wing position;
Simply put the further the wing is spaced back the more leverage it has so the more effect it will have.
Running the wing back is useful if your car is flying a little too nose down for example.
On lower grip but fast tracks running the wing spaced back is preferable to using a steeper angle/higher gurney flap as it gives you the increased loading effect without any more drag to slow the car down
Steering axle trail;
The more axle trail you have the more stable the car is.
On high grip tracks where reducing castor would make the car too twitchy using less axle trail can give you the improved direction change without feeling as nervous as reduced castor and actually loses less late corner steering too.
Run the 4mm trail axles unless you feel the car needs better direction change such as a small track with lots of chicanes or similar.
Flat Vs Gullwing front arms;
This is a "feel" related thing on high grip surfaces, very track and driver dependant. It is all about where in the corner the car generates the highest steering load.
Basically the flat arms give you more initial steering at the expense of mid-exit steering. A lot of us use them on EOS carpet because there is so much grip available the car barely pushes at any speed but equally the rear is so locked it is difficult to get the car to enter the corner with gullwings.
Gullwings give you less initial but more mid-exit steering.
If the track is open and flowing where confidence is everything and / or you feel the front is pushing mid-exit then go to the gullwings.
If the track is tight and direction change is everything in terms of laptime then bolt on the flat arms.
Always use the correct tower for the arms.
B64 hard rear arms on B6.1;
This is a bit of a hangover from the B6 on EOS carpet, which incidentally is the only place I would normally run B64 arms.
There are a couple of reasons why you might want to try this;
1) they have a very different flex characteristic to the B6.1 hard harms and actually improve the way the car lands from big jumps on to the flat landings as often found on EOS style tracks, this is more apparent the harder the surface is the carpet is laid on top of!
This flex characteristic also helps unlock the rear a little
2) they provide a little longer wheelbase which helps rotation on high grip carpet by effectively moving the weight forward in the now longer wheelbase unlocking the rear further. The B6.1 generates a ton of rear grip, it is why some of the guys are down on 1deg of rear toe too.
Now a bonus answer to a question you didn't ask .... driveshaft dogbone length...
A few of us prefer the shorter 65mm bone on EOS carpet as it helps support the car on power giving more rotation, the drivers that like it tend to be those that prefer the car to rotate a bit harder as you get on power rather than gaining forward bite and thus push/understeer. This is totally a driver based thing but if you feel your B6.1 is still too locked in on EOS carpet then they are worth a try rather than messing with crazy roll-centres etc.which could effect other areas of the handling package.
I hope that helps, if you need anything else please let me know, always happy to help anyone, especially another Brit.
Wing position;
Simply put the further the wing is spaced back the more leverage it has so the more effect it will have.
Running the wing back is useful if your car is flying a little too nose down for example.
On lower grip but fast tracks running the wing spaced back is preferable to using a steeper angle/higher gurney flap as it gives you the increased loading effect without any more drag to slow the car down
Steering axle trail;
The more axle trail you have the more stable the car is.
On high grip tracks where reducing castor would make the car too twitchy using less axle trail can give you the improved direction change without feeling as nervous as reduced castor and actually loses less late corner steering too.
Run the 4mm trail axles unless you feel the car needs better direction change such as a small track with lots of chicanes or similar.
Flat Vs Gullwing front arms;
This is a "feel" related thing on high grip surfaces, very track and driver dependant. It is all about where in the corner the car generates the highest steering load.
Basically the flat arms give you more initial steering at the expense of mid-exit steering. A lot of us use them on EOS carpet because there is so much grip available the car barely pushes at any speed but equally the rear is so locked it is difficult to get the car to enter the corner with gullwings.
Gullwings give you less initial but more mid-exit steering.
If the track is open and flowing where confidence is everything and / or you feel the front is pushing mid-exit then go to the gullwings.
If the track is tight and direction change is everything in terms of laptime then bolt on the flat arms.
Always use the correct tower for the arms.
B64 hard rear arms on B6.1;
This is a bit of a hangover from the B6 on EOS carpet, which incidentally is the only place I would normally run B64 arms.
There are a couple of reasons why you might want to try this;
1) they have a very different flex characteristic to the B6.1 hard harms and actually improve the way the car lands from big jumps on to the flat landings as often found on EOS style tracks, this is more apparent the harder the surface is the carpet is laid on top of!
This flex characteristic also helps unlock the rear a little
2) they provide a little longer wheelbase which helps rotation on high grip carpet by effectively moving the weight forward in the now longer wheelbase unlocking the rear further. The B6.1 generates a ton of rear grip, it is why some of the guys are down on 1deg of rear toe too.
Now a bonus answer to a question you didn't ask .... driveshaft dogbone length...
A few of us prefer the shorter 65mm bone on EOS carpet as it helps support the car on power giving more rotation, the drivers that like it tend to be those that prefer the car to rotate a bit harder as you get on power rather than gaining forward bite and thus push/understeer. This is totally a driver based thing but if you feel your B6.1 is still too locked in on EOS carpet then they are worth a try rather than messing with crazy roll-centres etc.which could effect other areas of the handling package.
I hope that helps, if you need anything else please let me know, always happy to help anyone, especially another Brit.
Thank you for the information. I’ve not raced 2wd in a about 3 1/2 years and in that time the cars are a lot different
01-17-2019, 12:25 PM
#2305
Tech Master
iTrader: (70)
Frustrating build question
New b6.1. When the front shocks are completely extended I have dramatic toe in. When they are compressed I have dramatic toe out. This is built to specs but I am clearly missing something as other cars do not do this. Any help on ideas would be great.
front shock travel is 21mm
zero bup steer washer
steering rack assembly fine.
2mm Ackerman. I also tried 1mm
tie rod length set to spec
when the car is resting on wheels look like 0 toe to 1/2* out
thanks
front shock travel is 21mm
zero bup steer washer
steering rack assembly fine.
2mm Ackerman. I also tried 1mm
tie rod length set to spec
when the car is resting on wheels look like 0 toe to 1/2* out
thanks
01-17-2019, 12:33 PM
#2306
Is it possible that your right and left steering spindles are backwards? The only thing I can think of that would create that effect is if either height of the arm at the steering hub or steering rack were way off and it'd be harder to do that by accident on the steering rack, I think.
01-17-2019, 06:13 PM
#2309
Tech Rookie
Diff not working?
Hey guys, I just got my b6.1 factory lite kit and was assembling it. I was playing with the rear axles that connect to the diff and when I spin it it spins the same way on the other side. Is that suppose to happen, I know on my other cars it doesn’t.
01-17-2019, 06:17 PM
#2310
To my eye, the steering drag link looks close to the classes, but I don't have my car in front of me for reference. Are your steering links close to parallel with the a-arms (height of ball studs inner & outer, relative to arms' pivots)?
edit: looks like you're running a carpet setup, with the spindles spaced all the way up? That would be enough of a height difference to create bump-steer. I'm not sure how that'd be addressed with the stock parts. Short neck outer ballstud?
edit: looks like you're running a carpet setup, with the spindles spaced all the way up? That would be enough of a height difference to create bump-steer. I'm not sure how that'd be addressed with the stock parts. Short neck outer ballstud?
Last edited by Davidka; 01-17-2019 at 06:31 PM.