1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
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09-10-2019, 03:15 PM
#3047
09-10-2019, 03:57 PM
#3048
I've found that 95% of the time, a few lightweight pieces like pucks and cut gears don't help you finish better in the main if you have a quality rig already. That 5% exception is when there's a jump section that you can clear just because of that extra "pop" you get from the added acceleration. Tracks should be designed to avoid those scenarios, but it does happen and then everyone thinks you need all the hot parts to be competitive.
09-10-2019, 05:30 PM
#3049
attempting to get my b6.1 FL setup converted over to carpet as much as possible with laydown trans etc. I took the laydown from my FL and put in my t6.1 - in any case I am attempting to get it all back together now properly.
My question this second is regarding the direct drive setup that seems to have came on it. My t6.1 appears to have a slipper and a diff shaft for this all together.
can anyone recommend if the direct drive is good for carpet if not what all i should buy to replace it with slipper? thanks in advance much appreciated!
My question this second is regarding the direct drive setup that seems to have came on it. My t6.1 appears to have a slipper and a diff shaft for this all together.
can anyone recommend if the direct drive is good for carpet if not what all i should buy to replace it with slipper? thanks in advance much appreciated!
09-10-2019, 06:53 PM
#3050
I've found that 95% of the time, a few lightweight pieces like pucks and cut gears don't help you finish better in the main if you have a quality rig already. That 5% exception is when there's a jump section that you can clear just because of that extra "pop" you get from the added acceleration. Tracks should be designed to avoid those scenarios, but it does happen and then everyone thinks you need all the hot parts to be competitive.
09-10-2019, 07:19 PM
#3051
I agree that you don't need it but sometimes like you said there is a sketchy jump or a jump right after slow corner you can make while taking the corner tighter than others and even 2 tenths every lap on a track like mine where every lap is 16 or 17 seconds, over 5 minutes thats about 3.5 second which is a lot. It also keeps motor temps down a noticeable amount. Like any upgrade part it won't make you a consistent racer but it will make your car faster even if its only a little bit. All I suggested is that if you're going to pick one, why not pick the factory lite for $10 more when it will be more optimized for 17.5 than the D.
So why did the national champ choose to use a slipper and cva's in 17.5 buggy, on a track where everyone ran slicks? There must be a reason, right?
My point is direct drive and pucks aren't always superior in 17.5 buggy. Dreighton's car was more than sufficient to win nats, without worrying about rotating mass etc.
09-10-2019, 07:58 PM
#3052
I tried pucks for a while and just couldn't lay down the power. Switched back to steel parts and went a few tenths faster. Both on my TLR 4.0 and my B6.1.
09-10-2019, 08:10 PM
#3053
Dreighton and Galen mccrearty both never run pucks. I think they were the only ones in the A main at nats that didn't. Nor do I. The light weight helps acceleration sure, but the pucks plastic on aluminum doesn't create traction like steel on steel of the regular parts.
I tried pucks for a while and just couldn't lay down the power. Switched back to steel parts and went a few tenths faster. Both on my TLR 4.0 and my B6.1.
I tried pucks for a while and just couldn't lay down the power. Switched back to steel parts and went a few tenths faster. Both on my TLR 4.0 and my B6.1.
09-10-2019, 08:18 PM
#3054
Oh and no it wasn't the added weight of the steel parts giving more rear traction. I added a 25 or 30g rear weight under the trans on my 4.0 to test that, and it helped but still wasn't the same as the steel parts.
But yeah keep running the pucks they are awesome. haha
But yeah keep running the pucks they are awesome. haha
09-11-2019, 08:36 AM
#3055
Oh and no it wasn't the added weight of the steel parts giving more rear traction. I added a 25 or 30g rear weight under the trans on my 4.0 to test that, and it helped but still wasn't the same as the steel parts.
But yeah keep running the pucks they are awesome. haha
But yeah keep running the pucks they are awesome. haha
09-11-2019, 09:13 AM
#3056
I don't think it's made anymore, but the MIP Bi-metal diff is a good way to reduce rotating weight while retaining the steel CVD's. They are still in stock in some places if you look around. Combine that with a Schelle/AVID slipper setup and you can retain both benefits with a good rotating weight reduction. Not sure what there is to do once you wear out the outdrives..
09-11-2019, 01:10 PM
#3057
I don't think it's made anymore, but the MIP Bi-metal diff is a good way to reduce rotating weight while retaining the steel CVD's. They are still in stock in some places if you look around. Combine that with a Schelle/AVID slipper setup and you can retain both benefits with a good rotating weight reduction. Not sure what there is to do once you wear out the outdrives..
09-11-2019, 01:42 PM
#3058
Tech Addict
Back when matty g was driving the b6.1 he would use the steel outdrives and the aluminum pinned bones from MOD. Always one of, if not the fastest buggy on the track for the stock class and many times competitive with the mod drivers. With the current strength of stock motors and lipo batterys I think the need for the lightest possible drivetrain isn't what it used to be. A few years ago when motors were weaker the pucks made a massive difference, now it can almost be omitted if you run good bearings and strong electronics.
09-11-2019, 07:11 PM
#3059
Tech Initiate
B64/74 rear arms
I don't remember seeing the final answer to why these are put on the B6.1
And what additional changes/parts are needed
And what additional changes/parts are needed
09-13-2019, 09:27 AM
#3060
Am I the only one that hates all the new 2wd bodies? I wish there was a cab rearward body available that also didn't look like someone stepped on the body.