Castle Hill RC Onroad
I have just recieved the rules and a questionaire from the guys organising the F1 competition in Vic to create a sanctioned rules. Will bring it down to the track on Friday . Might have a meeting with F1 drivers and those that interested in F1 to go through it so we can return it back to the guys in Victoria.
Tech Elite
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Hey Rob, no need to be cautious with the 13.5 if it smokes then it was for a good cause, I will grin and bear it. It actually looked like a hoot .. i wanna see how much gearing u can get in it whilst still being a responsive Hobbywing Diesel, i say go fit .. no issue if it blows !
Apart from hitting the pole at terminal velocity, it was real fun to drive even with the car broken and handling poorly. I think I can squeeze some more top end speed from it with extra tooth or 2 on the pinion and/or less teeth on the spur.
Even with the ball diff at the back it still punished you if you got onto the gas too early, so gearing it up along with having the punch turned down will give you good pace along with a smooth and easy motor to drive.
If it's ok by you I'd like to keep testing it once I get the new car sorted, which hopefully won't take too long. Going to be another learning curve for me over the next few weeks.
Cheers
Rob.
Can someone with a good setup of TC6 please help me what I need for the Castle hill track? I'm planning to run Stock or 21.5
Right now I have the sway bars off, should I install them back on at least for front?
Droop? Ride height? Roll center arm mount positions? shock positions etc???
Also what FDR with Muchmore 32 tires and a Reedy sonic 21.5? motor timing?
sorry for so many questions...
Will.
Right now I have the sway bars off, should I install them back on at least for front?
Droop? Ride height? Roll center arm mount positions? shock positions etc???
Also what FDR with Muchmore 32 tires and a Reedy sonic 21.5? motor timing?
sorry for so many questions...
Will.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
MM32's don't work very well at the hill, try and get some rides..
Can someone with a good setup of TC6 please help me what I need for the Castle hill track? I'm planning to run Stock or 21.5
Right now I have the sway bars off, should I install them back on at least for front?
Droop? Ride height? Roll center arm mount positions? shock positions etc???
Also what FDR with Muchmore 32 tires and a Reedy sonic 21.5? motor timing?
sorry for so many questions...
Will.
Right now I have the sway bars off, should I install them back on at least for front?
Droop? Ride height? Roll center arm mount positions? shock positions etc???
Also what FDR with Muchmore 32 tires and a Reedy sonic 21.5? motor timing?
sorry for so many questions...
Will.
My Reedy is set up to about 62.4 Rollout on my Tamiya 417. (The Final Drive is about 3.17 if that helps) I've also got the motor to about 30* of timing but that's something don't touch too much. I prefer to use my gearing to get my speed rather then the timing.
As for my car set up I run it with the stabilisers on. I just find the car to be a bit more settled in it's control. My ride height is about 5.5mm. I won't give you my droop settings as I had problems with the droop until I worked out that I had the rear arms flipped and thus caused my shocks to be over extended. I will say that I'm using HPI silvers all round as well.
Bare in mind this is for a Tamiya and I race 21.5 but it may help.
Well Friday coming around again, this time I should be there. Will be testing the dual system with Alycat as well, after Ken has made some changes. We are also having a vist from the General Manager MYlaps Australia again to.
So I hope we can put on a good show.
Looking forward to seeing everyone
cheers
Trev
So I hope we can put on a good show.
Looking forward to seeing everyone
cheers
Trev
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Yep, Red (regular inserts) Ride 32's work well at castle hill.
For 21.5 blinky a fdr of around 3.2 works with around 30-35 degrees of timing on a Reedy. Higher timing will give you more speed but will generate more heat.
May want to set your ride height a bit higher as there are a couple of bumpy sections.
Trev,
Hope you're feeling better and look forward to seeing you again tomorrow.
Cheers
Rob.
For 21.5 blinky a fdr of around 3.2 works with around 30-35 degrees of timing on a Reedy. Higher timing will give you more speed but will generate more heat.
May want to set your ride height a bit higher as there are a couple of bumpy sections.
Trev,
Hope you're feeling better and look forward to seeing you again tomorrow.
Cheers
Rob.
thx folks,
please keep the info coming. Ride 32 red they are slightly bigger diameter than the MM32s right? so I should adjust the gearing?
please keep the info coming. Ride 32 red they are slightly bigger diameter than the MM32s right? so I should adjust the gearing?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Cheers
Rob.
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
i think there is only a couple of ppl who run tc6's at castle hill,but there is always plenty of experienced ppl only to willing to help you if you need it
prof
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Can someone with a good setup of TC6 please help me what I need for the Castle hill track? I'm planning to run Stock or 21.5
Right now I have the sway bars off, should I install them back on at least for front?
Droop? Ride height? Roll center arm mount positions? shock positions etc???
Also what FDR with Muchmore 32 tires and a Reedy sonic 21.5? motor timing?
sorry for so many questions...
Will.
Right now I have the sway bars off, should I install them back on at least for front?
Droop? Ride height? Roll center arm mount positions? shock positions etc???
Also what FDR with Muchmore 32 tires and a Reedy sonic 21.5? motor timing?
sorry for so many questions...
Will.
I ran with the swaybars on mine,
spool front, 40wt rear diff oil, gear diff for rear (remember to change your diff orings 1 a month, they swell )
RSD 14.5 silver springs all round, 35wt oil front and rear,
droop, 6 front 5 rear, about 5.5 ride height
0B roll centre position front and rear, 3 deg rear toe,
V2A rear camber link, V1 front,
3B shock position front and rear,
I ran my 21.5 reedy at 64 rollout,
hope this helps.
Beth.
On the topic of tires last week there was a small discussion about how the tire warmers could be overheating the foam in the tires thus causing them to shrink. Is this right or is that just an indication that you are running the warmers too hot?
My tc6.1 blinky setup for Castle Hill
I ran with the swaybars on mine,
spool front, 40wt rear diff oil, gear diff for rear (remember to change your diff orings 1 a month, they swell )
RSD 14.5 silver springs all round, 35wt oil front and rear,
droop, 6 front 5 rear, about 5.5 ride height
0B roll centre position front and rear, 3 deg rear toe,
V2A rear camber link, V1 front,
3B shock position front and rear,
I ran my 21.5 reedy at 64 rollout,
hope this helps.
Beth.
I ran with the swaybars on mine,
spool front, 40wt rear diff oil, gear diff for rear (remember to change your diff orings 1 a month, they swell )
RSD 14.5 silver springs all round, 35wt oil front and rear,
droop, 6 front 5 rear, about 5.5 ride height
0B roll centre position front and rear, 3 deg rear toe,
V2A rear camber link, V1 front,
3B shock position front and rear,
I ran my 21.5 reedy at 64 rollout,
hope this helps.
Beth.
Using 64 spur and 41 pinion at the moment, guess if I changed to Ride tires, should go to 40 pinion or so?
cheers
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I might need to get a spare bottom deck soon. Its rather scratched up but still usable for the time being.
On the topic of tires last week there was a small discussion about how the tire warmers could be overheating the foam in the tires thus causing them to shrink. Is this right or is that just an indication that you are running the warmers too hot?
On the topic of tires last week there was a small discussion about how the tire warmers could be overheating the foam in the tires thus causing them to shrink. Is this right or is that just an indication that you are running the warmers too hot?
First, I was using the Ride 32 Blue tires which have the light weight foam inner inside them, and secondly I was using really crappy wrap around tire warmers.
The tire warmers temp sensor was a hit and miss affair where there was a +/- 15-20 C discrepancy depending where the temp sensor was inserted, which in turn lead to either or both of the 2 things.
1. The sensor under read the temp of the heating wire and allowed hot spots at the ends of the wrap around warmers.
2. total failure of the sensor, which lead to burned tires and a bad smell wafting through the pits.
Now I have a set of Much More cup warmers with a sensor that actually responds to the temperature settings, so hopefully no more burned tires.
However I have found out that you still can overheat certain tires and that will have the same effect as not warming them up at all, ie less grip than without (sometimes worse).
Not saying that the wrap around type warmers are bad, am saying that the cheaper ones have the above mentioned pitfalls...
And after playing with pink bits all week the new car is ready to put on the track tomorrow, will be interesting to see how it compares to the old tamiya.
Cheers
Rob.
Another question. Does anyone know if the light in the Pits is still out? I can possibly bring a flood light tomorrow night that may help.