aussie designed, & factory back up like no other :D
is it the combo or the ceramic you are looking at ?
i went for the combo because of the matching pipe & my driving skills don't warrant ceramic bearing & the extra rpm, :(
it's fast, smooth & very easy to get 10+ minute tank times :cool:

mg66
 

giday again
it ceramic but i was going to put a nova pipe on it as budget is tight and i,ve all ready have nova pipe 9901 .. will had pipe be alright?.
cheers
p.s have you ordered the JQ the car

:D enouph said :nod:

davet323 i think your gunna like the MG ;)
let us know how u go with the nova pipe !
& yep, JQs "THE CAR" is on the way :cool:
i just wish it came with Josephs driving skills :cry:

Congrats to Gerry Davis on the fantastic win 1st Place A MAin Buggy with the MG66X NZ 2010 Nat title !

thanks also to Grizz for his amazing support and dilligent service of the MG and Go Range in NZ. You cant ask for a better result !

Cheers MM

Any vids yet of the GO guys kickin ass in NZ :p

lol we better kick ass in taree on the 17th ;)

Hopefully I will have my new Caster ZX1.5R by then :D bolt the MG in, feed it some Blue Dot and go Alpha hunting :lol::lol:
If not out comes the GX5 port in the Truggy:tire:

Hoping to pick up a cd this weekend from one of the boys with some of the action from the truggy final - GX-5R kicking butt.

Kool

at least this GO thread is still easy to find.

Now I wanna get this right guys, got my 2 MG66X's from Mark, and couldn't be happier.

When I start the run in process, what shim stack should I run?, obviously the engines have come with a spare, aswell as what is installed from the factory. Also, should I replace the rod and rear bearing after run in? Will be running them in on 25% blue-dot, with OD 97T plugs.

Any other advise also?

I just wanna get this right to get maximum longevity out of these things

Cheers

Two MG´s - you lucky man you :nod:

A lot of people don´t use the extra .2mm run-in shim supplied, as the newer MG66 and GX series GO motors are not as tight as their predecessors, but it certainly doesn´t hurt to put it in. I still recommend using it to make run-in easier on the motor and on you, as far as starting etc goes.

Go to www.go-racing.co.nz and use the run in guide from the Tech Tips page there.
This is a method we have developed over the last couple of years here, and working in with Mark at MMods.
This will give you a good long lasting motor with great performance. and doesn't take forever. You will find you can race the motors after 15 tanks with no problems, and then they will just get better and better the more fuel you put through.

The biggest things are NOT idling the motor on the box for several tanks, foiling the head to keep the temps up to near normal while still running a little rich, and heating before every start whenever possible. This method is very easy on the motors from new.

Change the rod at the 1.5 to 2 gallon mark (you won´t get it off the crank pin without a struggle before this anyway). Bearing ? That´s up to you really. I would leave the bearings until the 3 gal mark if their looking OK, unless you want to upgrade to ceramics when you do the rod.

Run the stock shimming 1 x .3mm alloy and 2 x .1mm copper shims (as fitted from factory) until the motor is fully bedded in. Then experiment with what suits your needs after that. A lot of us run .4mm of shims and find that works very well with 25% or 30% and OD97T plug.

great combination you have there :nod:
+1 on what grizz said, pre heat & don't baby it !
enjoy
i replaced 1 rod at 17lt mark, last week, the other MG has only 6lt on it & still have the original bearings in both :cool:

Yes for the Ozzies we have the Ozzy tech tips section for the Ozzy Go Engine thread for OZ

http://www.massivemods.com.au/index....af9bc45a5341e7

M