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Old 02-19-2009, 10:59 PM
  #6616  
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Originally Posted by D1rk_B4
Quick question does a higher fdr (eg.6.76) have more low end speed or high end speed as say a fdr of 5.72???

oh and has anyone had a problem with stickers not sticking to there car body and is there some special glue or something that u used...ive already tried heating them on and that didnt work!


Cheers
-Dirk
an FDR of 6.76 will have a lower top speed but better accelleration than 5.72

Stickers, not sure, if you have used the body, make sure its clean and dry before applying stickers
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Old 02-20-2009, 01:42 AM
  #6617  
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Originally Posted by Bugle
Going to run stock to begin with, i'll have to run mod in club challenge if I run 4WD because i'll never race truck stock, too slow!

Ander the truck to beat at St Ives is the RC10T, if you can beat a T4 you might come close
I don't think my T4 will be a challenge to beat. It has a mind of its own and I only give it hints of where I want it to go and it normally ignores me .

The more trucks the better though. We will lose one nitro because Alfredo has to move to Melbourne for work. Haven't seen Tim (nitro) or Hal (T4) this year.

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Old 02-20-2009, 03:27 AM
  #6618  
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Originally Posted by gazza83
I don't think my T4 will be a challenge to beat. It has a mind of its own and I only give it hints of where I want it to go and it normally ignores me .

The more trucks the better though. We will lose one nitro because Alfredo has to move to Melbourne for work. Haven't seen Tim (nitro) or Hal (T4) this year.

Cheers
That sounds like a servo glitch

Oh, I didn't think there a Nitro truck class in the club challenge?
I used to run nitro truck, back when we used to split the trucks into 2WD and 4WD classes

Originally Posted by Bugle
Going to run stock to begin with, i'll have to run mod in club challenge if I run 4WD because i'll never race truck stock, too slow!

Ander the truck to beat at St Ives is the RC10T, if you can beat a T4 you might come close
Hahaha, an RC10T with 3T brushless? That one would be unbeatable if it has wheelie bars attached to prevent it from flipping over

How does the "no cross entering between classes" rule work?
So if you're in 4WD stock class it means you can't enter truck modified class on that day?
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Old 02-20-2009, 03:49 AM
  #6619  
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Hey Ander

no nitro in the challenge cup, thats correct

no cross entering is related to motor classes, as you correctly state, you cannot run 4wd stock and enter Mod truck, so any combination of 4wd, 2wd and truck, but all the same motor class, stock or mod
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Old 02-20-2009, 05:59 AM
  #6620  
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Thanks Mikey. Wow, I can't imagine having 2 or 3 identical motors for the challenge...
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Old 02-20-2009, 02:31 PM
  #6621  
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Just read St Ives getting a track rebuild, is the club
going to be making it bigger.
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:47 PM
  #6622  
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Originally Posted by X5 Addict
Urgent Help

We need somewhere to store the trailer (6 x 4) that has the onroad stand in it. Please PM myself or Michael if you have the room. I will drop it off if required.

Thanks
Tom.
We really need the space that the Club trailer is taking up at our home.
If someone can take it as soon as possibleit would be greatly appreciated.

Thankyou,
Marg.
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Old 02-21-2009, 01:33 AM
  #6623  
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Originally Posted by J-T9959
Just read St Ives getting a track rebuild, is the club
going to be making it bigger.
Hey Jason

a few pages back, there is a depiction of the new layout, it is a much more efficient use of the available space, so the track should be longer resulting in longer lap times, but the physical land size the club has will be the same
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Old 02-21-2009, 03:37 AM
  #6624  
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Originally Posted by NOFX
Hey Jason

a few pages back, there is a depiction of the new layout, it is a much more efficient use of the available space, so the track should be longer resulting in longer lap times, but the physical land size the club has will be the same
Hey Jason / Mikey.
Here is a fresh copy of the new track layout.
Now, we may not have the tree, Should make things easier for the back straights.

Mav
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
St Ives Final Layout.pdf (19.1 KB, 126 views)

Last edited by Maverick CR; 02-22-2009 at 03:00 AM.
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Old 02-22-2009, 02:12 AM
  #6625  
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I like it nice and technical.

Thanks Maverick rc
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:32 AM
  #6626  
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Guys, can someone help me out with what tyres i need to get. I need something suitable as a base for a XXX4 and XXXT running stock.
Also, what lipo should i be going for, big amps and high C rating or will a lower Amp high C rating do?

many thanks

Murray
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:49 AM
  #6627  
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muzz

for stock, pretty much any lipo will do, 20C+ and whatever capacity, they'll all have enough punch to cope with a stock motor, tyres , honestly cant help you until we see with new track, but truck, i keep studs, t2000s and holeshots in stock. 4wd, blockhead fronts and then bigshots and x2000s rears
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:10 AM
  #6628  
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Originally Posted by muzza_t
Guys, can someone help me out with what tyres i need to get. I need something suitable as a base for a XXX4 and XXXT running stock.
Also, what lipo should i be going for, big amps and high C rating or will a lower Amp high C rating do?

many thanks

Murray
Hello there. I'm also going to run truck stock in the club challenge.

When the track is dry and dusty I like:
Panther Micro Ribs front (med soft) <- these don't get shredded like V-grooved tyres, but clogs up when the track is wet.
Pro Line Bowtie T rear (M3) <-last longer than Hole-Shots

When the track is moist and sticky:
Tamiya Stadium Blitzer front tyres (hard to believe, yes)
Panther/Losi Step Pin (med/silver)

I'm still not sure what to use for 4WD buggies though. I've been running 4WD stock with Holeshot M3s and they only last 45 mins of racing before the pins come off.

Has anyone tried the Proline Inside Job? How long do they last?
I wish there's a Bowtie pattern for 4WD fronts.

Sorry, but tyre life is very important to me because I really don't enjoy removing worn tyres off the wheels.
...If only Dirt Hawg has a little more grip...

As for batteries,
I would get ones with high Amps because they're heavier so you don't have to put lead weights to meet the minimum weight requirement...
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Old 02-23-2009, 03:06 AM
  #6629  
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cheers guys, that gives me some ideas to seek out. Does it matter what inners i use? Also, whats the best way to clean off the glued on rubber on rims?

thanks again
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Old 02-23-2009, 03:11 AM
  #6630  
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I cut off the rubber and leave the rims in a milo tin of Acetone overnight. The glue completely dissolves. If there is any residue it can be scraped off with a small screwdriver.
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