St Ives RC Club
#6616
Tech Elite
iTrader: (25)
Quick question does a higher fdr (eg.6.76) have more low end speed or high end speed as say a fdr of 5.72???
oh and has anyone had a problem with stickers not sticking to there car body and is there some special glue or something that u used...ive already tried heating them on and that didnt work!
Cheers
-Dirk
oh and has anyone had a problem with stickers not sticking to there car body and is there some special glue or something that u used...ive already tried heating them on and that didnt work!
Cheers
-Dirk
Stickers, not sure, if you have used the body, make sure its clean and dry before applying stickers
#6617
Tech Initiate
The more trucks the better though. We will lose one nitro because Alfredo has to move to Melbourne for work. Haven't seen Tim (nitro) or Hal (T4) this year.
Cheers
#6618
I don't think my T4 will be a challenge to beat. It has a mind of its own and I only give it hints of where I want it to go and it normally ignores me .
The more trucks the better though. We will lose one nitro because Alfredo has to move to Melbourne for work. Haven't seen Tim (nitro) or Hal (T4) this year.
Cheers
The more trucks the better though. We will lose one nitro because Alfredo has to move to Melbourne for work. Haven't seen Tim (nitro) or Hal (T4) this year.
Cheers
Oh, I didn't think there a Nitro truck class in the club challenge?
I used to run nitro truck, back when we used to split the trucks into 2WD and 4WD classes
How does the "no cross entering between classes" rule work?
So if you're in 4WD stock class it means you can't enter truck modified class on that day?
#6620
Thanks Mikey. Wow, I can't imagine having 2 or 3 identical motors for the challenge...
#6624
Here is a fresh copy of the new track layout.
Now, we may not have the tree, Should make things easier for the back straights.
Mav
Last edited by Maverick CR; 02-22-2009 at 03:00 AM.
#6626
Guys, can someone help me out with what tyres i need to get. I need something suitable as a base for a XXX4 and XXXT running stock.
Also, what lipo should i be going for, big amps and high C rating or will a lower Amp high C rating do?
many thanks
Murray
Also, what lipo should i be going for, big amps and high C rating or will a lower Amp high C rating do?
many thanks
Murray
#6627
Tech Elite
iTrader: (25)
muzz
for stock, pretty much any lipo will do, 20C+ and whatever capacity, they'll all have enough punch to cope with a stock motor, tyres , honestly cant help you until we see with new track, but truck, i keep studs, t2000s and holeshots in stock. 4wd, blockhead fronts and then bigshots and x2000s rears
for stock, pretty much any lipo will do, 20C+ and whatever capacity, they'll all have enough punch to cope with a stock motor, tyres , honestly cant help you until we see with new track, but truck, i keep studs, t2000s and holeshots in stock. 4wd, blockhead fronts and then bigshots and x2000s rears
#6628
When the track is dry and dusty I like:
Panther Micro Ribs front (med soft) <- these don't get shredded like V-grooved tyres, but clogs up when the track is wet.
Pro Line Bowtie T rear (M3) <-last longer than Hole-Shots
When the track is moist and sticky:
Tamiya Stadium Blitzer front tyres (hard to believe, yes)
Panther/Losi Step Pin (med/silver)
I'm still not sure what to use for 4WD buggies though. I've been running 4WD stock with Holeshot M3s and they only last 45 mins of racing before the pins come off.
Has anyone tried the Proline Inside Job? How long do they last?
I wish there's a Bowtie pattern for 4WD fronts.
Sorry, but tyre life is very important to me because I really don't enjoy removing worn tyres off the wheels.
...If only Dirt Hawg has a little more grip...
As for batteries,
I would get ones with high Amps because they're heavier so you don't have to put lead weights to meet the minimum weight requirement...
#6629
cheers guys, that gives me some ideas to seek out. Does it matter what inners i use? Also, whats the best way to clean off the glued on rubber on rims?
thanks again
thanks again
#6630
I cut off the rubber and leave the rims in a milo tin of Acetone overnight. The glue completely dissolves. If there is any residue it can be scraped off with a small screwdriver.