48LikesHyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread
06-29-2011, 07:41 PM
#2986
No need for 1/8 scale setup. I run a longer can as well. More torque is the benefit there, so youre alright. Youll have to figure out what pinion works best for the kv of the motor you have. And the 60A is probably okay for 2s, but what Ive learned is its always better to go a little bigger esc wise for this truck. 100A is best in my opinion. I just bought a Quik 100A from hobbyking after burning up a 60A on 3s. But the ezrun might work well for you if youre not crazy bashing 
Oh and maybe try to score a Sidewinder SCT esc. Lots of people run em, and you could find one on here for 50 bucks probably.
Oh and maybe try to score a Sidewinder SCT esc. Lots of people run em, and you could find one on here for 50 bucks probably.
06-29-2011, 07:57 PM
#2987
IMHO, not a good basher but a great racer. On 2s and the right setup, this rig is a rocket.
06-29-2011, 11:28 PM
#2989
06-30-2011, 12:33 AM
#2990
Tech Addict
iTrader: (73)
Front knuckles
Rear hubs - don't waste time with plastic get alloy ones.
steering top plate - don't waste time with plastic get an alloy one.
Front arms.
Front hinge pins and bushes
Front hinge pin holders (front and back)
Carrying those parts most of us have been able to make the next heat.
Cheers Matt.
06-30-2011, 05:23 AM
#2991
Here is a start - these are the most commonly broken parts i see during racing.
Front knuckles
Rear hubs - don't waste time with plastic get alloy ones.
steering top plate - don't waste time with plastic get an alloy one.
Front arms.
Front hinge pins and bushes
Front hinge pin holders (front and back)
Carrying those parts most of us have been able to make the next heat.
Cheers Matt.
Front knuckles
Rear hubs - don't waste time with plastic get alloy ones.
steering top plate - don't waste time with plastic get an alloy one.
Front arms.
Front hinge pins and bushes
Front hinge pin holders (front and back)
Carrying those parts most of us have been able to make the next heat.
Cheers Matt.
06-30-2011, 10:07 AM
#2992
Here is a start - these are the most commonly broken parts i see during racing.
Front knuckles
Rear hubs - don't waste time with plastic get alloy ones.
steering top plate - don't waste time with plastic get an alloy one.
Front arms.
Front hinge pins and bushes
Front hinge pin holders (front and back)
Carrying those parts most of us have been able to make the next heat.
Cheers Matt.
Front knuckles
Rear hubs - don't waste time with plastic get alloy ones.
steering top plate - don't waste time with plastic get an alloy one.
Front arms.
Front hinge pins and bushes
Front hinge pin holders (front and back)
Carrying those parts most of us have been able to make the next heat.
Cheers Matt.
I would dis-agree with the alloy rear hubs. One of our local fast racers (Downtown Dave for you SD folks) put in the alloys, broke a stub axle at 6 laps. Replaced it and broke it again in like 5. He switched back to plastic. Plastic flexes, and helps buffer some of the shock during impacts. The top plate though, mine came with one (bought mine used) and I'm diggin' it. One of the other racers at the track popped out a hinge pin last night because there was too MUCH flex with the plastic top plate
06-30-2011, 10:24 AM
#2993
http://www.nitrohouse.com/index.php?cPath=31_109_473
06-30-2011, 01:06 PM
#2994
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Has anyone had any problems with the diff gears in there TT? Mines not even 3weeks old and I think the front diff gears are stripped already. The truck won't go anywhere and you can spin the front wheels like there is no gears left. I'm Going to pull it apart when I get home. Just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and if there is a fix.
06-30-2011, 01:20 PM
#2995
Has anyone had any problems with the diff gears in there TT? Mines not even 3weeks old and I think the front diff gears are stripped already. The truck won't go anywhere and you can spin the front wheels like there is no gears left. I'm Going to pull it apart when I get home. Just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and if there is a fix.
06-30-2011, 06:10 PM
#2998
Tech Addict
iTrader: (73)
I would dis-agree with the alloy rear hubs. One of our local fast racers (Downtown Dave for you SD folks) put in the alloys, broke a stub axle at 6 laps. Replaced it and broke it again in like 5. He switched back to plastic. Plastic flexes, and helps buffer some of the shock during impacts.
We saw a lot of dog bone stubs break in early days at our track but everyone is now using cvd's and no breakages since.
06-30-2011, 06:40 PM
#2999
Not sure, I'll have to ask him. Wasn't there for that race, he was telling me about it the following week.
06-30-2011, 06:49 PM
#3000
Exactly what I was gonna' say. I seem to be going through them a fair bit (I've got 'em on all four corners). After I snapped one last night and bent the heck out of a cvd shaft, I'm trying something. Since the pins are captured by the bearings, and I only run the truck on a clay track, I'm pulling the set-screw and put some heavy-duty grease on the ends of the pins.