AUSSIEMIKE

I have alot of experience with these.
The pins will come out of the plastic top plate when it is worn or slightly split. Even when u can barele see any damage- definately get the aluminium top plate.
That brace isnt necessary or correct. Go for the aluminium one that looks the same as the standard plastic one if u feel u need more rigity- strc make one i recall.
The integy aluminium front hubs are very high quality and stop all front spindle/hub breakages when u have all those annoying little hits that cause theses things to break. But... U will start to break upper and lower arms when u have a hard hit only. Just be super patient and carefull when u screw in the nylon inserts, the thread is very fine, like 0,5mm pitch...
Also get tge strc rear aluminium hubs! A definate and u will never touch them again!

AUSSIEMIKE

Okay cool. Easy fix.
Seriously save the heartache and go buy a new diff case (comes with a gasket) and buy a new gearbox case. Then rebuild it all properly. If its out of square that bad and not loosing oil, it is going to be a bad moulding. Thats what i did when i did all the diff mods so i knew i was starting wish a fresh base.
Makesure u buy a set of o rings for the diffs too. 89002-1 is the part number for a bag of orings. HH will tell u that u cant buy orings on their own and will try selling u a new gear set!!!
Before u rebuild it all place the flat surface of the diff case and the back of the crown in a piece of like 240 wet n dry and rub it till u see it all even just to rule out any burrs etc... I will tell u about the diff rebuild mods i did later if ur still interested?
Cheers and good luck!

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

Aussie Mike stated the following: The integy aluminium front hubs are very high quality and stop all front spindle/hub breakages when u have all those annoying little hits that cause theses things to break. But... U will start to break upper and lower arms when u have a hard hit only. Just be super patient and carefull when u screw in the nylon inserts, the thread is very fine, like 0,5mm pitch...
I am unclear as to what you stated. Would the aluminum Integy front hubs add to the durability of the vehicle? Would I break more lower and upper arms with the front aluminum hubs, yet not break the front hubs? It is my understanding that with aluminum parts that when one increases the strength in one area, one will break parts in others as the energy is transferred. I have not broken a plastic front hub yet, they just work themselves through the pillow ball hole... it's annoying when racing, but is an easy fix.

I do have the aluminum hex hubs and would tell anyone to upgrade to them when needed..

What upgrades would you suggest to increase durability of this truck?

AUSSIEMIKE

Depending how hard and at what angle u hit, if u have never broke a front hub, chances are that if u change to the integy hubs you will never break an arm. It usually takes a much harder hit to break the front arms.
U will also never have a pillow ball come out again as they r locked in well behind the nylon inserts.
Chances are though that if they come out that easily now, u need new front hubs and the pillow ball locking plates (new hubs come with them). I have never seen a pillow ball come out without something either split or worn.
Your statement about making one part more durable, makes another part sacrificial is true. However, the strength and integridy of the tuggy is still increased due to the front hubs being well known for their weakness.
I am very surprised to hear u have not broken one yet? However, i feel that if ur pillow balls keep coming out, u have a broken hub ... Or split retainer plate...
Hope this helps mate!

toronto_rc

iTrader: (8)

Considering getting the blue 10SC springs. Any one else using these? How's the ride height? Wondering if I need to cut the springs to get a level ride height...

AUSSIEMIKE

Hi mate.

I would only run them if you have large jumps at your track or a few flat landings from jumps.

I have tried these and they definately firmed up the ride but causes alot more bucking/bouncing over all the little bumps.

You will need to cut them for the front shocks. I think i cut 3-4 coils from memory. The rears don't require cutting.

A suggestion- try just the fronts first and see if it helps your situation...
Then try the rears.

If you change them all in one hit, you may end up too hard a jump in spring difference to drive to the change. You will also want to seriously look at your oil and pistons if you make the change. A harder spring will require more viscosity

I personally have gone back to the stock springs and play around more with pistons and oil. along with shock positions. All these things are better to try than the harder spring at my track.

Hope this halps!

Cheers!

AUSSIEMIKE

For those that wanted to see some of the work I did on my diffs, see the attached pdf.

It has some pics. This is the first time I have uploaded a link to this forum so I hope it works. Let me know if it doesn't...

You will see a pic of my workspace at home in the gym room for those moments where a man needs to escape the family and play with his cars...

If you look closely, you will see that the pinion and the crown are also chamfered and smoothed off. The shims are polished flat. The cross pins are polished and the backs of all gears are polished.

The rest of the tricks come into the assembly of the whole unit...
When you screw down the crown, you need to makesure it is running true to the rest of the diff case or you will have a inconsistent mesh to pinion. You can do this 2 ways-
1) Via the use of a jig (old diff case works well) and a dial indicator on the back of the crown.

2) Or you can simply grab a micrometer and measure the thickness from the crown to the other side of the diff case as you are tightening to makesure this is even. The problem with this method is that you are relying on the diff case mould to be running true to the bearing bosses.

If the spider gears are tight, you can double up the gaskets. I only had to do this with the middle diff, the front and rear were perfect

Simple stuff thats cheap (almost free), and increases the power, decreases the drag and makes things run cooler etc...
The only downside to all of this is the time! It took me ages! But I love to do bench racing too! lol

Enjoy and let me know your thoughts people!

Cheers!

Hengsta

iTrader: (1)

Awesome Mike! Your a ledgend!

Also on that note sorry haven't replied to your post earlier! I did it all last night and the car is so much better bought all new diff case and gearbox case.

Also what weight diff oil you use?

AUSSIEMIKE

No probs mate!

Im glad I could help!
As for the diff oil... I used the Hobao brand diff oil.
The front- 5000 wt
Middle- 7000wt
Rear- 1000

You can run 2000 in the rear but you will gain more steering with 1000 wt.
So if by driving the car you feel as though you arent steering in as well as you would like, the rear diff oil needs to be thinner. Also lighter shock oil and or springs compared to the front also help! And dont forget the sway bars!

Cheers!

Hengsta

iTrader: (1)

You missing a 0 on the end on each one or is that correct? Lol

I have

Front- 30000wt
Middle- Unsure
Rear- 10000wt

Trying to find 70000wt or 100000wt oil for the middle and HH don't have it to be honest I try a avoid the best I can to buy anything from HH unless i need things straight away then I will get stuff from them.

toronto_rc

iTrader: (8)

Great...thanks for the info Mike!
Sounds like I'll stick with the stock springs for now, since there isn't anything wrong with the current setup.

Cheers,

AUSSIEMIKE

Hi mate,

Nope no 0's missing...

If u get the hobao oil you will want 5 (f), 7 (m), 1 or 2 (r) thousand...
If u r running like 30000 wt, it will be waaaay too thick for this truggy. Well thats if its Hobao oil? Im not sure on the other brands equivelants? Wat brand r u running mate?
By running thicker oil, essentially u r "locking" the spider gears up harder so that u wont get any slip. This is not good for steering and uneven bumps, jumps, landings etc...
You want to have pretty strong power transfer from the centre, pretty forgivable gears in the rear to help with wheel to wheel transfer of power and as for the front, u want pretty strong power to both wheels to help with powering out of conrners!

Hengsta

iTrader: (1)

Yeah Im running 30000wt oil lol guessing 1/8 is different to 1/10 scale stuff. looks like I have to take my diffs out again.

aquito

Hey if i wanna make my TT into a 10sc I would only have get front, back bumper, body and wheels? Or anything else? I'm guessing I can't put nerf bars right?

mister_g

iTrader: (73)

off the top of my head you will also need a chassis as its considerably longer, new centre drive shafts, chassis braces, front shock tower and front shocks. Plus the parts you mentioned.

I did look into this with the Australian distributor some time ago but the sum of the parts was well over a new kit cost.

Cheers Matt