Team Associated TC6 Thread
#2101
the difference is the size of the hole in the shock piston. for my tc's i keep 35wt-55wt oil in intervals of 5 ( 35,40,45....)
#2102
Tech Adept
Killed a Bulkhead and some Plastik parts. Fortunately in Germany the parts are available
#2103
Tech Addict
Another victory for TC6 - 1st on Portuguese Stock Nationals
#2104
#2106
Tech Adept
hello,
A little question about spur gear for the tc6.
I saw we can use the x ray model of rw racing with the "offset "
For my tamiya i bought a lot of Rw universal without the offset
too bad i can't post picture of it to explain better what i mean
Are they compatible with the tc6 ? or the offset is needed for the allignment of the belt (20 dt pulley / 40 dt pulley)
thanks
A little question about spur gear for the tc6.
I saw we can use the x ray model of rw racing with the "offset "
For my tamiya i bought a lot of Rw universal without the offset
too bad i can't post picture of it to explain better what i mean
Are they compatible with the tc6 ? or the offset is needed for the allignment of the belt (20 dt pulley / 40 dt pulley)
thanks
#2107
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
wheel chattering
Ok, so far this has not been a good build for me. I'm in the final stages of setting up my car, but the last issue is with the wheel chattering-I've read the forum and people have suggested turning down the duel rate, but my question is, does the chattering continue with car set on the track as opposed to it occurring only on the pit stand-has anyone just tried breaking in the cvd's for a little to find that it resolves the chattering issue?
#2108
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Ok, so far this has not been a good build for me. I'm in the final stages of setting up my car, but the last issue is with the wheel chattering-I've read the forum and people have suggested turning down the duel rate, but my question is, does the chattering continue with car set on the track as opposed to it occurring only on the pit stand-has anyone just tried breaking in the cvd's for a little to find that it resolves the chattering issue?
#2109
half way through my build.
what I have noticed so far;
not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.
not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too
cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around
AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.
Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
what I have noticed so far;
not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.
not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too
cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around
AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.
Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
#2112
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I use it all the time and even for bench work. Once you clamp the TC to the plate it's way easier to work on the TC from arms out, and top side general maintanence. It works for all TC's except the Yokomo BD5 which is way narrow at the arms. Click the link in my sig to take you there.
#2113
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Do I like it?? I designed it and build them....so YA.
I use it all the time and even for bench work. Once you clamp the TC to the plate it's way easier to work on the TC from arms out, and top side general maintanence. It works for all TC's except the Yokomo BD5 which is way narrow at the arms. Click the link in my sig to take you there.
I use it all the time and even for bench work. Once you clamp the TC to the plate it's way easier to work on the TC from arms out, and top side general maintanence. It works for all TC's except the Yokomo BD5 which is way narrow at the arms. Click the link in my sig to take you there.