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Old 03-27-2011 | 10:32 PM
  #2101  
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the difference is the size of the hole in the shock piston. for my tc's i keep 35wt-55wt oil in intervals of 5 ( 35,40,45....)
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Old 03-27-2011 | 10:58 PM
  #2102  
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Originally Posted by Verndog
Looks like my reliable sources are out also...sorry. How did you manage to break a bulkhead, thats not easy to do?
Well, I can tell you how I killed mine. A young Kid thought it's a good idea to set his car back on Track on the long straight, just in front of my 4,5T powered TC6 approaching at Max Speed

Killed a Bulkhead and some Plastik parts. Fortunately in Germany the parts are available
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Old 03-28-2011 | 02:46 AM
  #2103  
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Another victory for TC6 - 1st on Portuguese Stock Nationals
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Old 03-28-2011 | 03:20 AM
  #2104  
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Originally Posted by ed517
tC5 bodies will fit. for the diff and spool use the diff nut from the B4(offroad) keeps the diff bolt truer and stronger with alittle more thread. sorry cant remember the part #
does the tc6 use the same (same parts) diff as the tc5?
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Old 03-28-2011 | 03:39 AM
  #2105  
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Originally Posted by poochy
does the tc6 use the same (same parts) diff as the tc5?
Only the out drives are different.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 08:51 AM
  #2106  
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hello,

A little question about spur gear for the tc6.

I saw we can use the x ray model of rw racing with the "offset "

For my tamiya i bought a lot of Rw universal without the offset

too bad i can't post picture of it to explain better what i mean

Are they compatible with the tc6 ? or the offset is needed for the allignment of the belt (20 dt pulley / 40 dt pulley)

thanks
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:17 AM
  #2107  
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Default wheel chattering

Ok, so far this has not been a good build for me. I'm in the final stages of setting up my car, but the last issue is with the wheel chattering-I've read the forum and people have suggested turning down the duel rate, but my question is, does the chattering continue with car set on the track as opposed to it occurring only on the pit stand-has anyone just tried breaking in the cvd's for a little to find that it resolves the chattering issue?
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:36 AM
  #2108  
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Originally Posted by blanks596
Ok, so far this has not been a good build for me. I'm in the final stages of setting up my car, but the last issue is with the wheel chattering-I've read the forum and people have suggested turning down the duel rate, but my question is, does the chattering continue with car set on the track as opposed to it occurring only on the pit stand-has anyone just tried breaking in the cvd's for a little to find that it resolves the chattering issue?
I just put mine together and have NO chatter on the bench at full turn. What you need to do is the slots that go through the dogbone axle need to be burr and sharp edge free, and the barrel nut needs to have the pin hole deburred (break edge burr free). Then after doing this, assemble with black diff grease and grab the CVA 1 end in each hand, crank to full tilt, and spin holding 1 end with thumb and fingers. Feel for any hop in there, and take the smoothest 2 and put in the front.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 10:16 AM
  #2109  
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half way through my build.

what I have noticed so far;

not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.

not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too

cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.

chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around

AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.

Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 10:20 AM
  #2110  
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this?
I used a pit boss tweak plate to assemble mine and it stayed DEAD flat. Check the screws, the stock kit screw heads that have the stamped letters on head are thicker then normal and stick out past flush on chassis. Suggest replacing those.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 10:50 AM
  #2111  
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Originally Posted by Verndog
I used a pit boss tweak plate to assemble mine and it stayed DEAD flat. Check the screws, the stock kit screw heads that have the stamped letters on head are thicker then normal and stick out past flush on chassis. Suggest replacing those.
Verngog, I went to check on this tweak plate you were speaking of, and was impressed with what I learned. How do you like the tool? Do you use it often or just with new builds? Interested in purchasing one, but want to make sure I will use it often. Thanks.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 11:07 AM
  #2112  
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Originally Posted by johnny55
Verngog, I went to check on this tweak plate you were speaking of, and was impressed with what I learned. How do you like the tool? Do you use it often or just with new builds? Interested in purchasing one, but want to make sure I will use it often. Thanks.
Do I like it?? I designed it and build them....so YA.

I use it all the time and even for bench work. Once you clamp the TC to the plate it's way easier to work on the TC from arms out, and top side general maintanence. It works for all TC's except the Yokomo BD5 which is way narrow at the arms. Click the link in my sig to take you there.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 11:14 AM
  #2113  
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Originally Posted by Verndog
Do I like it?? I designed it and build them....so YA.

I use it all the time and even for bench work. Once you clamp the TC to the plate it's way easier to work on the TC from arms out, and top side general maintanence. It works for all TC's except the Yokomo BD5 which is way narrow at the arms. Click the link in my sig to take you there.
Its awesome i have it and it takes all the tweak out of the chassis
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Old 03-28-2011 | 11:15 AM
  #2114  
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Hey guys im looking for a good base carpet set up. What is everyone using?

Thanks for the help
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Old 03-28-2011 | 11:29 AM
  #2115  
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Originally Posted by transplantlife
Hey guys im looking for a good base carpet set up. What is everyone using?

Thanks for the help
I used the Herbert Indoor Champs set up on carpet, worked well.
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