Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Team Associated TC6 Thread >

Team Associated TC6 Thread

Like Tree20Likes

Team Associated TC6 Thread

Old 03-29-2011, 01:19 AM
  #2131  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 412
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default parts

heys guys just wondering what parts are the same as the tc5r like diffs, belts arms, hubs, need to sort some spares cheers
jay m is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 02:00 AM
  #2132  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
bhambrent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: B'ham, AL.
Posts: 2,026
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

here you go


Originally Posted by mugenize1
Do the bulkheads work I am looking around. I never had the TC5 so I can not check but if someone has a TC5 will you please have a look.
Part # Item
1401 FT Blue Titanium Turnbuckles, 1.30"/33mm
1403 FT Titanium Turnbuckle, 1.65", blue
1418 FT .825" Turnbuckles, Ver. 2
2230 Front & Rear Body Mounting Posts
31058 FT Blue Roll Bar Ballstud
31162 Axle Shim Set
31166 Diff Rebuild Kit
31169 Diff Pulley, 40T
31173 Slipper Spool Pads
31184 TC5 Cam Holder Set
31185 Diff Bearing Cam
31187 Front Belt
31188 Rear Belt
31198 Arm Mount Shim Set
31200 Wheelbase Shim Set
31205 Front Suspension Arm
31206 Rear Suspension Arm
31212 Caster Block, 4
31214 Caster Block Bushing
31215 Steering Block Set
31218 Rear Hub, 0
31221 Inner Hinge Pin Set
31222 Outer Hinge Pin Set
31227 CVA Rebuild Kit
31231 CVA Stub Axle
31232 CVA Bone
31233 FT Axle Crush Tube
31234 FT Clamping Wheel Hex
31237 CVA Pin Retaining Clip
31238 FT CVA Bone Blade
31249 Shock Shaft Ball Cup
31250 FT Shock Bushing
31261 FT Roll Bar, 1.25mm
31264 Anti-Roll Bar Mount
31269 FT Anti-Roll Bar Kit
31280 Ballstud, short, 5mm
31281 Ballstud, short, 8mm
31286 FT Ballstud Washer, aluminum
31400 Bearing, 5 x 8mm
31401 Bearing, 10 x 15mm
31404 Bearing, 6 x 10mm
31556 TC5 Castor Blocks, 2 (Hard)
31558 TC5 Castor Blocks, 6 (Hard)
31563 Rear Hubs, 0.5 (Hard)
31564 Rear Hubs, 1 (Hard)
3897 Pivoting Body Mounts, 8 body clips
3906 D-Drive Ring
3941 FT Green Spring, 12.0 lbs.
3942 FT Silver Spring, 14.5 lbs.
5407 Red Silicone O-Ring
6465 Shock Piston, PTFE
6475 Preload Spacers, Collars, Cups
6573 Diff Thrust Washers and Bolt
6574 Precision Diff Thrust Ball, 5/64"
6581 Carbide Diff Ball, large, 3/32"
6582 Diff Thrust Spring
8828 Anti-Roll Bar Cup Set
9180 Servo Horns, molded
************* All FT Srings Fit
************* All Caster Blocks
************* All Rear Hubs
bhambrent is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 04:57 AM
  #2133  
Tech Master
 
daleburr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oxfordshire, UK
Posts: 1,090
Default

Originally Posted by captain stacker
thanks to all the guys who made suggestions regarding tweak.

on mine, it's 100% the motor mount. As soon as I tighten up the screws to the motor mount brace, it tweaks the chassis. Seems like I can only leave it not tightened all the way, might need some shimming under that brace. It really is a stupid mounting system, never seen it before on a touring car. The mount should be completely flat.

edit.....even though with the motor mount screws done up tight and tweak is there, once the top plate is tightened up properly, the tweak is gone. So all is good now.
I had this same issue; the motor mount was causing tweak. I isolated the problem to the layshaft mount that the motor mount bolts to. This mount wasn't dead straight on the chassis, so when I bolted the motor mount between the layshaft mount and the chassis, the chassis tweaked.

My solution was to bolt the two layshaft mounts together using 19mm standoffs. Then bolt the mounts to the chassis, then remove the standoffs. This got both mounts dead square (which is good), and meant I could bolt the motor mount on without tweaking the chassis (which is very good).

Your car needs to be 100% tweak free without the top-deck. Using the top-deck to force it into a given position will just make it more likely to tweak on track as the chassis will be trying to pull it back into the tweaked position.
daleburr is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 05:57 AM
  #2134  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 678
Trader Rating: 10 (92%+)
Default

yes you are correct, it would be best if it was tweak free before mounting the top plate on. I've just finished the build and will have a run the next few days. Until then and beyond, I will look into a type of system to keep it tweak free, just your post doesn't completely make sense to me as I have only just completed building the car and don't know the ins and outs yet.

I also have a feeling I need to do some dremelling as at the moment putting the spur assembly through the bulkheads requires a little force to get it in, and I'm also thinking this is contributing to the tweak.

I don't understand why they didn't design the 'motor mount brace' to mount completely flush with the chassis.
captain stacker is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 05:59 AM
  #2135  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Portugal
Posts: 586
Default

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/new...iew=0000001701
jorgesimes is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:39 AM
  #2136  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Verndog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PPDBillet.com USA
Posts: 1,845
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by captain stacker
I don't understand why they didn't design the 'motor mount brace' to mount completely flush with the chassis.
The motor mount is not symmetrical about the chassis, in other words it is on one side of chassis with nothing opposite it to keep chassis flex common both right to left. So, knowing that, and knowing some chassis flex is key to handling they try to minimize it's effects by relieving it and spreading the weight distribution out. Again, what "appears" a poor design, is actually a benefit once on the track. In other words it's what top racers want, look no further then their results to see if it's working.
Verndog is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 08:03 AM
  #2137  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (56)
 
Logi Maker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 6,070
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Had a great time at carpet nats. The AE guys went above and beyond support. Sat down with the TC6 designer Bob (he hooked me up with a rear shock tower). Awesome guy, one of the nicest people I have met in this "hobby". He was actually driving the first TC6 that all the team tested with. He just changed out the original top deck and chassis last week. He got into the history of the design and why everything from the arms out are TC5, for now... TC6.1 in the near future. He basically designs the on road stuff. Such a nice guy. Got a look at the 12R6 too... what an experience. Had some issues with my LRP esc and walked right over to Sean Cochran for some help.

Big shout out to Region 11 (WA state) rep Sean Maybell, there all week to help us local guys out. Multiple times seen roaming the pits with a box of parts and set up tips, can't say it enough how he is the perfect guy for us to lean on.

The only thing I decided to upgrade is the front body posts, went with the CRC thickies.Thanks Bob, Sean and Maybell for an awesome experience. Wish I could have ran my main, but my ESC took a dump post tech and could not fire back up. Again Sean C is handling it..

AE RULES!!!
Logi Maker is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 09:57 AM
  #2138  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
tr1kstanc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 357
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pcar951
Just did mine. I dremeled out the drive cups slightly (increase inside diameter only, blade slots work fine). You don't need a lot so test the fit frequently. You'll also need to take about 1mm off the case where the outdrive bearings butt up, so the diff will fit nicely between the bulheads, it's a little too wide. The whole process took about 20 min... piece of cake.
What's the best way to take 1mm off the spec-r gear diff casing? Are you taking .5mm off each L/R side? Somebody mentioned using a truer but I do not have access to one. I have a dremel, sandpaper, and files.
tr1kstanc3 is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 11:15 AM
  #2139  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
Brian McGreevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,081
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3
What's the best way to take 1mm off the spec-r gear diff casing? Are you taking .5mm off each L/R side? Somebody mentioned using a truer but I do not have access to one. I have a dremel, sandpaper, and files.
I did it with a dremel and cylindrical grinding stone. You don't have to use much force, and make sure to even it out around the whole circumference so that the bearing seats properly.
Brian McGreevy is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 02:43 PM
  #2140  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
 
BlackedOutREVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 3,791
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3
What's the best way to take 1mm off the spec-r gear diff casing? Are you taking .5mm off each L/R side? Somebody mentioned using a truer but I do not have access to one. I have a dremel, sandpaper, and files.
I only shaved down the side that doesn't have the pulley. The pulley already sits close to the bulkhead as is. A dremel with a sanding bit is all you need
BlackedOutREVO is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:12 PM
  #2141  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (88)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 903
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Default Tweak

For those with tweak issues, when I built mine I found that the front right side of the top deck was putting quite bit of pressure on the front bulkhead. I filed off just a bit and everything lines up on the guages I've been using. Mine may have been a one off but it's something to check at least. Otherwise the car runs great, and the build was the best out of any touring car I've had.
tcdrvr2 is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:16 PM
  #2142  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Verndog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PPDBillet.com USA
Posts: 1,845
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tcdrvr2
For those with tweak issues, when I built mine I found that the front right side of the top deck was putting quite bit of pressure on the front bulkhead. I filed off just a bit and everything lines up on the guages I've been using. Mine may have been a one off but it's something to check at least. Otherwise the car runs great, and the build was the best out of any touring car I've had.
Are you saying you had to file one of the bulkheads down because they weren't all parallel or the top deck was warped?
Verndog is offline  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:20 PM
  #2143  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (88)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 903
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Default Sorry

No, sorry if I wasn't clear but it seemed that the top deck was a bit longer on the right side than on the left. I noticed it primarily because the deck didn't want to just lay in the slot without having to force it down. After I filed slightly it sat down in the slot without being forced.
tcdrvr2 is offline  
Old 04-01-2011, 10:53 AM
  #2144  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 910
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default Problem with ball differential

Hi, guys, wonder if you face the same problem here with regards to TC6 rear ball differential.

As far as I know, ball differential (bd) works correctly if you turn a wheel in one direction, the other wheel would turn in opposite direction.

I have tried to rebuild it about 5 times including using different brand of bd grease (3racing, xray & Schumacher), changed new 3/32 balls, changed new steel plate), but it would not work (both wheel turned in the same direction)

When I turned the bd only using my hand, the other side turned in opposite direction, but I could feel the friction.
When the bd was installed in the car with wheel, using hand, both wheels went the same direction.

What went wrong??

Sigh...
hobbs is offline  
Old 04-01-2011, 11:49 AM
  #2145  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Verndog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PPDBillet.com USA
Posts: 1,845
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hobbs
When the bd was installed in the car with wheel, using hand, both wheels went the same direction.

What went wrong??

Sigh...
Nothing, please dont rebuild your diff again it's working fine.

It has to do with what your holding and what your turning. There are 3 items that can move, diff pulley, outdrive 1 and outdrive 2. At least 2 of these have to move as you spin something. Think of that as you turn it and remember the balls can roll, or they can move with the diff pulley.
Verndog is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.