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Team Associated TC6 Thread

Old 03-28-2011, 11:46 AM
  #2116  
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
half way through my build.

what I have noticed so far;

not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.

not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too

cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.

chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around

AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.

Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
My c clip was not in the bag with the rest of the belcrank assembly. It was in a small bag with the chassis plates. I thought they forgot it also.

I also noticed a tweak about halfway through the build. I put the car down on a flat board. Loosened the topdeck scre, pushed down on the shock towers and retorqued the top deck. Car dead flat after I did that.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:53 AM
  #2117  
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around
Check with a ruler if all screws on the underside are far enough in. Mine aren`t. And this causes my tweak. Without the screws that aren't within the chassis plate everything is OK. Now... because when I rebuild the car some weeks ago I recognized that my tweak was only caused by the mounted servo. So I mount it now extra careful.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i
I also noticed a tweak about halfway through the build. I put the car down on a flat board. Loosened the topdeck scre, pushed down on the shock towers and retorqued the top deck. Car dead flat after I did that.
He said the problem was still there with top deck loose indicating the issue is at chassis level. If your sure its not a thick screw head as I found, start loosening the bulkhead screws 1 at a time and carefully watch for a bent head or one that does not run true as your spinning it. From there loosen each bulkhead and check again for flatness to determine a possible bulkhead issue.

Originally Posted by wtcc
when I rebuild the car some weeks ago I recognized that my tweak was only caused by the mounted servo. So I mount it now extra careful.
That is another good point, if you mounted the servo to the mounts outside the TC and dont have it flat then install...you have a problem. Also using washers on the servo screw heads will help from twisting the mount and causing tweak.

Last edited by Verndog; 03-28-2011 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
half way through my build.

what I have noticed so far;

not too happy with the spur arrangement, this is new to me.

not happy with the motor mount being raised a couple of mm off chassis,even though it has the motor brace for support. This is new to me too

cvd's bind when using grubs screws, so I didn't put the grub screws on, I gather with the sleeve, the pins not falling out anyway. I dont understand as the grub screw head is not touching anything to make it bind.

chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak. Has anyone else noticed this? I criss crossed the screw pattern for top deck tightening, but even with the screws loose, there is a tweak!!! All the coutersink screws seem deep enough into the chassis, so its not the screws protruding thats making the chassis warp. I dont understand what to do next to get rid of it. Is there a way to tweak free a chassis by yourself? just dont have an extra hand laying around

AE must of went through all the bulkheads, as I can see a freshly tapped hole, which was done AFTER anodizing. At least the newer kits will be all good.

Missing the steering bellcrank C-clip, no big deal, just need to order from amain but thats an extra 2 weeks wait as I'm outside the US and know that my LHS will not have that part.
Just to add to everyone else

I lost my c clip when I built my car (went flying into space LOL) And I just stuck a normal e clip on there and it worked fine. Not sure what size it was as I had bought a bag of assorted sized mugen ones a while back. But its worked fine so if you have e clips you can use one of those

As for chassis tweak, make sure your chassis is flat when you tighten your motor mount to the layshaft bulkhead and then tighten that brace from under the chassis. I had built mine the first time and didnt have my car on a flat board, car was tweaked. Soon as I loosened the motor mount and tightened it on a flat board the chassis lays perfectly flat
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:00 PM
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There are 2 guys at my track that are also having te tweek problem .Also the aluminum used is not very high grade so the bulk heads bend easily.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Verndog
He said the problem was still there with top deck loose indicating the issue is at chassis level. If your sure its not a thick screw head as I found, start loosening the bulkhead screws 1 at a time and carefully watch for a bent head or one that does not run true as your spinning it. From there loosen each bulkhead and check again for flatness to determine a possible bulkhead issue.



That is another good point, if you mounted the servo to the mounts outside the TC and dont have it flat then install...you have a problem. Also using washers on the servo screw heads will help from twisting the mount and causing tweak.
Yup, and second more important one is, that the chassis was bend when I mounted the servo and tightened the the flathead screws. And that is the point I meant. Unfortunately it doesn't make a difference which screws are tightened first. It always tweaked until I played the human pit boss tweak plate...
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:03 PM
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As for tweak guys the probblem is in the spur gear bulkhead doesn't fit exactly to the lenght of the spur gear shaft, you can check this by tighten both screws on the side and check if theres a movement in the bulkhead, so my first solution was to had a shim of 0,3 mm thickness and check again if theres a movement in the bulkheads when tighten them. In my car 0,3 was ok, but in a friends car it was only needed 0,2mm. My second solution was to just tight one screw in one side of the bulkhead as you can see in the next photo taken this weekend at the Portuguese Nationals. Either way use liquid thread lock on the screw.

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Old 03-28-2011, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
half way through my build.

what I have noticed so far;......

chassis was tweak free before build, now half way through have noticed a tweak.
thanks to all the guys who made suggestions regarding tweak.

on mine, it's 100% the motor mount. As soon as I tighten up the screws to the motor mount brace, it tweaks the chassis. Seems like I can only leave it not tightened all the way, might need some shimming under that brace. It really is a stupid mounting system, never seen it before on a touring car. The mount should be completely flat.

edit.....even though with the motor mount screws done up tight and tweak is there, once the top plate is tightened up properly, the tweak is gone. So all is good now.

Last edited by captain stacker; 03-28-2011 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:55 PM
  #2124  
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
It really is a stupid mounting system, never seen it before on a touring car. The mount should be completely flat.
Offsetting and lengthening the motor mount is why the TC6 is now able to balance with NO weight other then battery. After you iron this out and once on the track you'll be glad they did. IMO its a great system, you just need to really watch how you approach tightening things down. This whole developement is the result of changing to lipo batteries that are lighter and not adding more weight...they call this progress I believe.

Last edited by Verndog; 03-28-2011 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Verndog
Offsetting and lengthening the motor mount is why the TC6 is now able to balance with NO weight other then battery. After you iron this out and once on the track you'll be glad they did. IMO its a great system, you just need to really watch how you approach tightening things down. This whole developement is the result of changing to lipo batteries that are lighter and not adding more weight...they call this progress I believe.
so its optimized
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:08 PM
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well, cvd chattering not resolved with all the aforementioned strategies tried, so I will do some testing trackside this week and if performance is greatly impacted i will contact associated
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by blanks596
well, cvd chattering not resolved with all the aforementioned strategies tried, so I will do some testing trackside this week and if performance is greatly impacted i will contact associated
I doubt that will bring much resolution, it's a known issue with many TC's hence the $50.00 per axle ECS's that are out. If none of that helped possibly the fact I'm running the 6 deg. castor blocks makes a difference there...not sure.

I'm running these.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...rBlockSet.html
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Verndog
I doubt that will bring much resolution, it's a known issue with many TC's hence the $50.00 per axle ECS's that are out. If none of that helped possibly the fact I'm running the 6 deg. castor blocks makes a difference there...not sure.

I'm running these.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...rBlockSet.html
i was thinking to myself, why i dont get chatter either, it wasnt till i read your comment about the 6 degree blocks, i twigged as i also run with no other mods to the universals

ed
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Verndog
I doubt that will bring much resolution, it's a known issue with many TC's hence the $50.00 per axle ECS's that are out. If none of that helped possibly the fact I'm running the 6 deg. castor blocks makes a difference there...not sure.

I'm running these.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...rBlockSet.html
I'm running the stock 4 degree blocks a i'm trying to stay as close to my tc5 set up as possible until i get track time with this car-i did do some quick research to find that this is a common issue with new cvd's running in a spool- I wouldn't mind spending the the money for the ecs' if they were a direct fit
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by blanks596
well, cvd chattering not resolved with all the aforementioned strategies tried, so I will do some testing trackside this week and if performance is greatly impacted i will contact associated
try running without the grub screws
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