Losi XXX-S
You may try, but weight reducing start with G+ if you have rtr, if you have g+, then try to dremel some parts of chassis.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
yea it is a G+
Im actually trying too reduce the rotating mass (seeing as im in stock class 17.5) too try an get a bit more acceleration out the corners etc.
Im not too keen too dremel my chassis seeing as i cant find any new ones too but now days
Im actually trying too reduce the rotating mass (seeing as im in stock class 17.5) too try an get a bit more acceleration out the corners etc.
Im not too keen too dremel my chassis seeing as i cant find any new ones too but now days
In Germany people dremeles the whole chasis, it was working perfect. What is your rtr weight in grams now?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
mine is a xxx-s G+ (not the rtr) it is already slighty under the regulation weight with the lipo, so I run 20 grams of lead weight too bring it upto legal weight.
Im not looking too loose more weight overal just looking at loosing some rotating mass weight.
thought it may help improve accelaration/punch out the corners etc.
Im not looking too loose more weight overal just looking at loosing some rotating mass weight.
thought it may help improve accelaration/punch out the corners etc.
I wouldn't bet if that little changes anything
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
ok i mite try it out an let ya's know. as i think it may have a similar effect as running a lightened pinion gear.
has anyone had problems running the composite outdrives with a spool (shering off etc), Im only running in 17.5 class too by the way
has anyone had problems running the composite outdrives with a spool (shering off etc), Im only running in 17.5 class too by the way
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
and now I m running newer version with a ring, so far so good. should be a same part number just an running change.
if you looking for more accel you should try belt mod, just cut every other tooth off the belt like picture above, that made tranny alot freer, also you can run the belt lil tighter with that mod which help on accel.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (124)
I ran old version composite with no luck before, they snapped on corner in first race.
and now I m running newer version with a ring, so far so good. should be a same part number just an running change.
if you looking for more accel you should try belt mod, just cut every other tooth off the belt like picture above, that made tranny alot freer, also you can run the belt lil tighter with that mod which help on accel.
and now I m running newer version with a ring, so far so good. should be a same part number just an running change.
if you looking for more accel you should try belt mod, just cut every other tooth off the belt like picture above, that made tranny alot freer, also you can run the belt lil tighter with that mod which help on accel.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
just wondering are you doing the belt mod to the cars with the long belt conversion and if so are you just using the black belts or are you using the yellow belt off the xxx4.
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
What esc and motor do you youse? As far as I know the fastest stuff now is GM combo with variable timing.
Here is my xxx-S/4. It started out as a xxx-s but would shread a belt ever 4 races. So I swapped arms shock towers cvds on to a spare xxx-4 chassis I had. Wheel base is now adjustable from 255mm to 275mm with spacers for the rear.
One thing I did notice is that the xxx-s Black belt is the same length as the xxx-4 yellow belt. Right now I am running a slipper clutch from the xxx-4 but I can change it with the xxx-s setup if I choose too.
Only thing is I don't know how to figure out the FDR for my setup. Oh well. Heres the pixs.
Pix of my Vintage Trans-Am setup with 255wb and my onroad setup at 275wb
One thing I did notice is that the xxx-s Black belt is the same length as the xxx-4 yellow belt. Right now I am running a slipper clutch from the xxx-4 but I can change it with the xxx-s setup if I choose too.
Only thing is I don't know how to figure out the FDR for my setup. Oh well. Heres the pixs.
Pix of my Vintage Trans-Am setup with 255wb and my onroad setup at 275wb
What is difference between xxx-s and xxx-4 chassis?
Tech Rookie
About 20mm on wheel base. On a stock xxx-s you can't run the longer xxx-4 belt or the black belt unless you get the larger idler pulley. In the rear you have to use the xxx-4 piviot blocks, hinge pin, and xxx-s arms and cvds. Also now I can use the slipper clutch from the xxx-4 or just swap it with a xxx-s spur. xxx-s rear diff cover is the same as the xxx-4, front is different.
I swapped chassis because I had a problem with belts shredding. I think I found out the problem, there was a sharp edge that was still left from the casting in the belt housing, I just smoothed it with a dremel. So one day I will swap the parts back to the xxx-s chassis and see if that fixed the problem.
Other than that its the same chassis just a tad bit longer.
I swapped chassis because I had a problem with belts shredding. I think I found out the problem, there was a sharp edge that was still left from the casting in the belt housing, I just smoothed it with a dremel. So one day I will swap the parts back to the xxx-s chassis and see if that fixed the problem.
Other than that its the same chassis just a tad bit longer.
Did you try to run onroad with this long wheelbase?
Interesting, so chassis is longer or it may be adjusted?
Interesting, so chassis is longer or it may be adjusted?
Tech Rookie
I've ran it at the local Hobby Town club race, and it seems to be a bit more stabler, other than that its about the same handling wise. The wheel base can be adjusted from 255mm to 275mm depending on how I set up the spacers for the rear arms. Only thing is that I have two bodies, one for 255mm wheelbase for my vintage trans-am and one for 275mm touring car. I only did this because I was waiting for a Black Belt Kit to come in the mail and I had a extra xxx-4 roller I was doing nothing with, I just didn't want any down time waiting for parts.