NeO-pRo-3

What difference does the TITanium Turnbuckles make? and the TItanium HIngepins?

LouisB

I think about 3 years, I now have 7 cars

LouisB

The Ti turnbuckles are easier to adjust and won't bend in bad crashes, they are lighter too. The Ti hingepins don't make much of a difference.

KevanB

hey can someone help me on this!?!?!

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

NeO-pRo-3, yes it will fit the enitre lineup of Losi XXX-S Cars.

ZER01

Why did you get the G+ ver if you're low on funds? You could have gotten the XXXS RTR and used some of that money on stuff you would need to race(Tires/inserts/wheels/charger/multiple battery packs/good esc/a strong servo for steering/motors/parts/decals/etc..) Racing is very frustrating when you don't have the stuff to do it , trying to race 3 or 4 races with 1 battery pack is gonna kill a battery no matter type of battery it is. I recommend you to buy at least 3 NEW battery packs and go from there if you got everything else and you're serious about racing, tires and parts are next. If you're new to racing, ask around as much as you can, you only live once and you never know when your straw is gonna be be pulled.

futureal

He actually got a used XXX-S car, all graphite. Not the G+. It was a pretty killer deal. I agree though, it's best to allocate money wherever it will best be spent. I think he's doing a good job...

But yea, to race effectively (for a 3 Q + Main program) you need 3 packs at the bare minimum. 3000s or 3300s ideally.

ZER01

No doubt futureal, Sanyo, Panasonic or GP 3000/3300 mAH's are ideal for racing right now, forgot to add that. Kevan, Finding a setup from someone isn't the whole point to winning races, it's learning how to setup a car to make it fast. Don't get me wrong Kevan, you can put a setup on a car that is just totally screwed to hell and back if you don't know what does what(caster,camber,shock travel, tires, list goes on and on), so start with the manual setup and go from there. Ask as many questions as you can at your track, here on RCTech(best RC forum around)about what does what so you can use that info to help setup your car, don't talk to the guys placing 9th in the C main every race day, talk to the fast guys and ask questions twice to differant racers so you can compare answers. If your serious about racing then theoretically you want to learn how to setup a car, you're already thrilled about driving it, now learn how to tune it so that you can drive it. The back of the XXXS manual is a great starting point for learning the adjustments.

Da4head

iTrader: (3)

Busted a front shock shaft on the graphite plus during our mains yesterday, it is unbelievable how much the front upper bumper brace has to move to even hit the shock. I'm gonna try Rayhuang trick with the dremel, anyone else have other ideas to fix this. On another note, why does the rear diff after several hard runs feel gritty and when checked 5 to 10 minutes later it is smooth again.

alfa

i broke a shock shaft today how does the bumper reach that shock so far in?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I just took that piece off of my car. I put the Matt Francis red foam bumper on there and so far so good.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

This make four front shafts broken since I got the car. Is this bumper the real problem or is it the shafts? I'm putting on all of the regular shafts and taking this front bumper thing off of the car. I ran stock yesterday and barely brushed up against the boards and my shaft was broken. We'll see what happens next weekend....but I don't plan on crashing

NeO-pRo-3

Thanks, Kraig but how much of a difference does the aluminum belt cover makes besides showing off! HEHE...

futureal

It strikes fear into the hearts of your opponents.

ZER01

Quote:

Originally posted by tufferwilde
OK -

Since we are all talking about the G+.... how about the crappy Front shock shafts included in the car? How many others out there have broken the shafts?? Thus far, I have broken one each week... but I am hesitant to put another batch of Ti Nitride shafts on the car if this is a running issue with the latest shafts...

I also recently read on TT that the shafts were having this issue somewhat due to the new upper bumper mount hitting the shock... but... The last shaft I broke broke just as the other did at the top thread of the shaft... the bumper didn't take the hit... the left front did - in fact I ripped it off! But just the same - in similar crashes, I haven't broken shafts on my asphalt car (identically equipped XXX-S - not G+)

I am going to put the UGLY BRP bumper on the car this week in an effort to save the time and hassle of building the shocks, measuring, etc!

OUT -
Wilde

Quote:

Originally posted by rayhuang
Me-I did it!!! Head-on hit, didnt hit a wheel. I think the top of the bumper smacked the shock. Add on top of that a possibly too hardened shock shaft or possible poorly machined shock shaft and "snap".

Quote:

Originally posted by STLNLST
I went through two shafts in two laps. I 'll replace them with the stock one's if I should happen to break another one. No broken arm or any other part. The shaft broke right above the threads.

Quote:

Originally posted by Da4head
Busted a front shock shaft on the graphite plus during our mains yesterday, it is unbelievable how much the front upper bumper brace has to move to even hit the shock. I'm gonna try Rayhuang trick with the dremel, anyone else have other ideas to fix this. On another note, why does the rear diff after several hard runs feel gritty and when checked 5 to 10 minutes later it is smooth again.

Quote:

Originally posted by alfa
i broke a shock shaft today how does the bumper reach that shock so far in?

Just out of curiosity, are you all threading on your shock ends by holding the shock shaft with some wire cutters right above the top of threads?