14LikesTamiya F104 Pro!
07-17-2012, 11:35 AM
#8671
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
I will be another San Diego F1 Rookie Driver, first off thanks for your help. I am still a little confused why you are saying to get hard rears? The guy who TQ'd here at our parking lot track with a FGX was using Soft ribbed shimizu's on front and soft ribbed shimizu's on rear. I been trying to read through all this info and I have seen both suggested. Are the Hards on the rear meant to last longer? I want to order tires and so far i got the soft fronts shimizu's and both med and Soft rears in the cart? Do I really want the hards in the rear, I know there is a thread that talks more about this- so I'm off to find it. Any help / advice / links are appreciated by this rookie- Thanks!
For the F103 Pit Shimizu 0541 and 0542. See above.
For the FGX Pit Shimizu 0561 and 0565. With this series of tires, the rears really are harder than the fronts.
80% of your problems are solved by getting these tires. Full sauce on the rears, start with none at the front and slowly add compound to the width of the front tire to get the desired balance.
As a fellow newbie F1 driver that has progressed quickly, my impressions of the F104 are listed below:
In my experience, tuning the diff so it is just on the verge of slipping from a standstill launch will also help the car be easier to drive.
If upgrading, I recommend the High Traction T-Bar to get even more rear grip under acceleration. Getting even a Tamiya CVA shock and M-Chassis gold spring(and adjusting the length for droop), can make the car feel more "locked" down and easier to correct.
More subtle changes can be made by changing the front spring stiffness, adding the heavy pivot post and/or rear counter-weight and adding/subtracting posts between the upper/lower chassis.
07-17-2012, 02:20 PM
#8672
If anybody is interested in a barely used Tamiya F104 w/ upgrades, electronics, and spare parts, be sure to take a look at this one
.
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07-18-2012, 05:41 AM
#8674
07-18-2012, 06:04 AM
#8675
Does anyone run Brushless "blinky" 21.5 / 48 pitch?
I'm converting my 104 Pro from brushed to brushless and I run 48 pitch, so I'm looking for a Spur / Pinion gearing to start with. Track is a 120' x 80' med-high grip outdoor asphalt. Warm Temps outside. I have no idea what FDR i'm looking for.
Any suggestions? I need some advice before I Race Sunday. Thanks.
I'm converting my 104 Pro from brushed to brushless and I run 48 pitch, so I'm looking for a Spur / Pinion gearing to start with. Track is a 120' x 80' med-high grip outdoor asphalt. Warm Temps outside. I have no idea what FDR i'm looking for.
Any suggestions? I need some advice before I Race Sunday. Thanks.
FDR 3.0 and go from there
07-18-2012, 09:36 AM
#8676
Got another quick F1 newb questions for ya.
We will be running 21.5 motors
I got a GTB2 Novak esc and a Ballistic sensored 21.5 that I want to use? Think it will be any good. I see the other 3 brands people are using and Tamiya Silver can and I wondered if there was a big difference? I would think a sensored motor would be better yeah?
How much does the C rating matter using lipos? I think I've heard it matters alot with 17.5 class, so I would think it would matter with 21.5, but then again I've also heard I may need to turn throttle down so I dont know if the "C" matters? I have some 65 c turnigy nanos but they have the connectors coming out of the top. Will those fit? I also have some Gen Ace with connectors coming out the end but I think they are only 25C OR 35c.
Thanks for the help- Robert
Last edited by 5VoltDetonator; 07-18-2012 at 10:36 AM.
07-18-2012, 10:39 AM
#8678
One other thing have you seen those body's on ebay that are chrome eletroplated and look like a Mercedes Fodafone? I'm at work so I cant link to ebay but the item number is 26106416288. Anybody know how good they look in person. I don't think they have the exact same lines as the Tamiya body. Are they a cheap knock off or are they ok? Also since they are one piece instead of Three piece like other f1 bodies are they any more durable?
07-18-2012, 11:31 AM
#8679
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: im 4rm a far away place called 1st
Posts: 1,849
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Thanks for making it clear that the rear "hards" actually feel soft- I'm ordering those.
Got another quick F1 newb questions for ya.
We will be running 21.5 motors
I got a GTB2 Novak esc and a Ballistic sensored 21.5 that I want to use? Think it will be any good. I see the other 3 brands people are using and Tamiya Silver can and I wondered if there was a big difference? I would think a sensored motor would be better yeah?
How much does the C rating matter using lipos? I think I've heard it matters alot with 17.5 class, so I would think it would matter with 21.5, but then again I've also heard I may need to turn throttle down so I dont know if the "C" matters? I have some 65 c turnigy nanos but they have the connectors coming out of the top. Will those fit? I also have some Gen Ace with connectors coming out the end but I think they are only 25C OR 35c.
Thanks for the help- Robert
Got another quick F1 newb questions for ya.
We will be running 21.5 motors
I got a GTB2 Novak esc and a Ballistic sensored 21.5 that I want to use? Think it will be any good. I see the other 3 brands people are using and Tamiya Silver can and I wondered if there was a big difference? I would think a sensored motor would be better yeah?
How much does the C rating matter using lipos? I think I've heard it matters alot with 17.5 class, so I would think it would matter with 21.5, but then again I've also heard I may need to turn throttle down so I dont know if the "C" matters? I have some 65 c turnigy nanos but they have the connectors coming out of the top. Will those fit? I also have some Gen Ace with connectors coming out the end but I think they are only 25C OR 35c.
Thanks for the help- Robert
Personally the only disadvantage you will see with the gtb is size. As for
batteries I would run the highest C and capacity possible within reason. More power= less dump
07-18-2012, 01:09 PM
#8681
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: im 4rm a far away place called 1st
Posts: 1,849
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07-18-2012, 02:37 PM
#8683
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: im 4rm a far away place called 1st
Posts: 1,849
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Lol go for no fade?
07-18-2012, 04:24 PM
#8685
cool thanks
One other thing have you seen those body's on ebay that are chrome eletroplated and look like a Mercedes Fodafone? I'm at work so I cant link to ebay but the item number is 26106416288. Anybody know how good they look in person. I don't think they have the exact same lines as the Tamiya body. Are they a cheap knock off or are they ok? Also since they are one piece instead of Three piece like other f1 bodies are they any more durable?
One other thing have you seen those body's on ebay that are chrome eletroplated and look like a Mercedes Fodafone? I'm at work so I cant link to ebay but the item number is 26106416288. Anybody know how good they look in person. I don't think they have the exact same lines as the Tamiya body. Are they a cheap knock off or are they ok? Also since they are one piece instead of Three piece like other f1 bodies are they any more durable?