Associated RC12R5
#1846
Hey guys I see the 12R5.1 comes with an airtronics servo saver. But LHS says that airtronics doesn't make a 12th scale stearing servo and the one supplied doesn't fit futaba is this true. And the futaba servo has ears on the bottom and front. Should you cut off the bottoms ones and use the supplied bulk head mounts? Sorry if I am using the wrong name.
#1847
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Now available from AE Factory Team blue aluminum screw kits for the 12R5/5.1.
AE#8557
Kits contain screws that will work with either a R5 or R5.1 kit.
The kit is complete and contains even the hard to get sizes on the car.
It does not include the 4-40 wheel screws as they already come aluminum in the car kit.
Press release should go out tomorow with full details.
AE#8557
Kits contain screws that will work with either a R5 or R5.1 kit.
The kit is complete and contains even the hard to get sizes on the car.
It does not include the 4-40 wheel screws as they already come aluminum in the car kit.
Press release should go out tomorow with full details.
Do you know if there is a company, or even ae, releasing plastic front bulkhead shims, like the old one's from the standard front end?
#1848
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
Curious if anyone seen this Ver.2 of the pod plate? Its the same part number as the other but whats the Ver.2?..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
Here are the screw kits..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
Here are the screw kits..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
#1849
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Curious if anyone seen this Ver.2 of the pod plate? Its the same part number as the other but whats the Ver.2?..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
Here are the screw kits..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
Here are the screw kits..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
#1851
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
For those interested, R/C Evil Empire did a build and test article of the Team Associated 12L5.1. It can be read here:
http://rcevilempire.com/2009/11/rcee...ated-rc12l5-1/
Special thanks to Traci Hohwart of Team Associated for all the help. It was a really nice build and I definitely recommend the car if you are into 1/12 racing
http://rcevilempire.com/2009/11/rcee...ated-rc12l5-1/
Special thanks to Traci Hohwart of Team Associated for all the help. It was a really nice build and I definitely recommend the car if you are into 1/12 racing
#1853
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
I am using the kit 3.25 setting also.
My rear end setup:
rear width 171mm
.8mm pod droop
25wt side shock oil
30wt center shock with gold spring, second hole from bottum of mount
blue side springs
Jaco tires: pink, double pink on a Paragon track....yellow, lilac on a Jack track. 1.72 inch rear tire, 1.62 front.
3.5mm ride hight front and rear.
My rear end setup:
rear width 171mm
.8mm pod droop
25wt side shock oil
30wt center shock with gold spring, second hole from bottum of mount
blue side springs
Jaco tires: pink, double pink on a Paragon track....yellow, lilac on a Jack track. 1.72 inch rear tire, 1.62 front.
3.5mm ride hight front and rear.
Thanks a lot. Your set-up looks a lot like mine. Only difference is the side shock oil. We have a smooth flowing track and I Like to use 35/40WT. .
But a problem I have is, that it pushes with Pink (rear) -Double Pink (front), onpower.
With Double pink front and rear it's not like that. What do you think this can be? Double Pink Front and rear is faster for me, Double pink is a harder tyre in the rear, with less natural rubber.
Best Regards
Robert Krens
#1854
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
Robert,
I race with Sean. I would say that you probably have a permenent track or at least have more people putting down traction. We have a decent turnout of racers but we only have a tempory track that only gets used a few times a month so we never get huge traction from it.
If you get enough forward grip, I would run the double pink all around. The firmer the tire as long as you have enough grip then the better I feel. Less tire wear, less prone to chunk, etc.
Have you tried different caster settings?
Steve
I race with Sean. I would say that you probably have a permenent track or at least have more people putting down traction. We have a decent turnout of racers but we only have a tempory track that only gets used a few times a month so we never get huge traction from it.
If you get enough forward grip, I would run the double pink all around. The firmer the tire as long as you have enough grip then the better I feel. Less tire wear, less prone to chunk, etc.
Have you tried different caster settings?
Steve
Sean,
Thanks a lot. Your set-up looks a lot like mine. Only difference is the side shock oil. We have a smooth flowing track and I Like to use 35/40WT. .
But a problem I have is, that it pushes with Pink (rear) -Double Pink (front), onpower.
With Double pink front and rear it's not like that. What do you think this can be? Double Pink Front and rear is faster for me, Double pink is a harder tyre in the rear, with less natural rubber.
Best Regards
Robert Krens
Thanks a lot. Your set-up looks a lot like mine. Only difference is the side shock oil. We have a smooth flowing track and I Like to use 35/40WT. .
But a problem I have is, that it pushes with Pink (rear) -Double Pink (front), onpower.
With Double pink front and rear it's not like that. What do you think this can be? Double Pink Front and rear is faster for me, Double pink is a harder tyre in the rear, with less natural rubber.
Best Regards
Robert Krens
#1855
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
In the process of a new 12r5.1 build and a couple of things i have noticed.
The blue is lighter, looks a bit weird as the blue on the rear hubs is the old darker blue and sits right next to the lighter blue of the rear bulkheads.
Pivot balls in both lower front arms were very tight and require a lot of work to free them up, much tighter then the original 12r5. Top arms were very smooth.
No hope of getting the shock shaft into the shock rod ends. They are way too tight and could damage something. Will need to ream these out. The old 12r5 ones were almost too loose.
Besides these little issues it is a very nice kit. All the bags are well organised and labelled. No searching for parts.
Lets see if i can get it finished tomorrow.
The blue is lighter, looks a bit weird as the blue on the rear hubs is the old darker blue and sits right next to the lighter blue of the rear bulkheads.
Pivot balls in both lower front arms were very tight and require a lot of work to free them up, much tighter then the original 12r5. Top arms were very smooth.
No hope of getting the shock shaft into the shock rod ends. They are way too tight and could damage something. Will need to ream these out. The old 12r5 ones were almost too loose.
Besides these little issues it is a very nice kit. All the bags are well organised and labelled. No searching for parts.
Lets see if i can get it finished tomorrow.
#1856
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Robert,
I race with Sean. I would say that you probably have a permenent track or at least have more people putting down traction. We have a decent turnout of racers but we only have a tempory track that only gets used a few times a month so we never get huge traction from it.
If you get enough forward grip, I would run the double pink all around. The firmer the tire as long as you have enough grip then the better I feel. Less tire wear, less prone to chunk, etc.
Have you tried different caster settings?
Steve
I race with Sean. I would say that you probably have a permenent track or at least have more people putting down traction. We have a decent turnout of racers but we only have a tempory track that only gets used a few times a month so we never get huge traction from it.
If you get enough forward grip, I would run the double pink all around. The firmer the tire as long as you have enough grip then the better I feel. Less tire wear, less prone to chunk, etc.
Have you tried different caster settings?
Steve
Thanks for your repley.
I race at several tracks, but this one is permanent (Mach Heemstede, where the EK1:12 Stock was held). Disadvantage is that there are a lot of touringcars that "drive the grip away" (If you understand what I mean ;-)) So the grip is far from "sticky high", but still good.
I've not tried different caster settings yet I like how the (front of the) car reacts. The Set-up Sean post's is almost my basic setup (I'm starting with the blue center spring, that's all).
This "Pushing" behavior what my car gives is something I have with the softer tyres (Yellow, Pink) and when I slam the throttle a bit to hard, My car just goes a bit wide which cost me a few tent's in laptime, but I'm trying to understand why. And how to get rid of it, without changing the tyres.
Thanks,
Best Regards
Robert Krens
#1857
Tech Fanatic
The W comes from the IFMAR World's winning car of Tony Neisinger, and was the first 12L to have a centre shock where a simple spring had been before. Hence, 12LW!
The 'R' in 12R5 is, I guess, a reference to Robert (Bob) Stelfue, who designed the latest car - or so it says on another thread! I just love this nitty gritty, useless detail!!
#1858
Robert K- I would try a stiffer center shock spring, would help get rid of that on power push I believe, easy change to try even for a couple laps in practice.
#1859
What is meant by 'active caster'?
#1860
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Reactive Caster is the amount of caster change when the front suspension is compressed.
When your front suspension is compressed, the angle of the upper susp. arm will give you a amount of angle change. The Arm is Angle forward and will decrease your amount of caster, when compressed
In "short" terms: (This is not precisely true)
10 Degrees Will give a lot "corner in" but not so much "corner out"
5 degrees will give a smooth feeling
0 degrees will give a really soft an lazy feeling.
Normally I'm driving 5 degrees, because I don't like the feeling of 10, when I'm going fast into a corner. The car will tent do "drift" going in, but will be stable in the middle - end of the corner. And 0 degrees is just to soft...
Best Regards
When your front suspension is compressed, the angle of the upper susp. arm will give you a amount of angle change. The Arm is Angle forward and will decrease your amount of caster, when compressed
In "short" terms: (This is not precisely true)
10 Degrees Will give a lot "corner in" but not so much "corner out"
5 degrees will give a smooth feeling
0 degrees will give a really soft an lazy feeling.
Normally I'm driving 5 degrees, because I don't like the feeling of 10, when I'm going fast into a corner. The car will tent do "drift" going in, but will be stable in the middle - end of the corner. And 0 degrees is just to soft...
Best Regards