LouisB

My club's TC saloon championship has just finished (GT starting again next week)
I was equal 5th place in the championship going into the final round with exactly the same results as another guy (but different order) I qualified 5th in the final (he was 4th) and moved up to 3rd after the first few corners but I started to notice that my car wasn't slowing down very well. By about 2 mins I couldn't make the hairpin at the end of the straight without letting off the throttle way before the corner. This allowed a couple of people to pass me I ended up finishing 4 seconds behind the person i was equal with in the championship!

I think it's my Quantum Competition causing the problem, possibly fried brake FETs any ideas?
I would send it back to LRP as soon as pos. but I have a 1/12th race on thursday night and it's my only speedo
I might send it to be repaired and get a Keyence Zero V if I have enough money left.
1/12th is going to be fun with no brakes

howard hudson

yokomo 138g with yokomo med insert worked best for me when i was running the carpet track here in riverside i also used paragon tire dressing hope this helps

oh ya use the belted type

Dave Kurschner

An obvious choice of many racers are the Team Sorex tires. Get like the 24's for the front and 20's for the back. Some go one step stiffer with 28's in the front and 24's in the back. I've like the JB foam Blue inserts.

Also, Yokomo has a newer 139 B2 tire that is fantastic. Use their new firm thin insert. You can use the same compound tire front and back.

Last but not least would be the Pit Shimizu's which have worked well and lost some popularity due to importing problems for a while but now are easily available again.

futureal

We are still running on ozite carpet on our track, which has less bite than the DuPont carpet that some of the newer tracks are using (e.g. Scotty Ernst's Trackside Hobbies).

On the ozite, you are looking at Sorex or Pit 20-24, or Take Off 22s. The 20s all around will give you the most bite, but tire wear is suspect and you will probably have to change your setup to compensate for the grip. I think having the car slightly loose makes it faster, so I have opted for either the TO 22 or the Sorex 24 depending on how tight the track configuration is (the Take Off 22s tend to have the least grip, but they last well).

On a more grippy carpet like the DuPont, I would go to Sorex 24-28, Take Off 27s or the Yokomo 138Gs. If the track gets heavy use, there should be enough rubber laid down that you can go with a heavier compound (like at a big race); if not, go with a Sorex 24 or Yokomo 138G to start off with.

Of course, a big part of it is setup. I started with Paul's setup from the ROAR Carpet Nats last year and worked from there to get it adjusted to my track. If you need to purchase a first set of tires, go with something softer -- just to make sure it works -- and then work to a harder compound from there.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Hey All, Finished another round of racing today.

I placed first in the B main with some clean driving. My motor is a total dawg and I bought another. It was funny to take it out and spin the comm without the brushes and springs and watch it spin in the can for easily 4 seconds. The new motor I bought it stops as soon as I let go (or close enough!) . Its funny, we can run the older chamelons at our track, and they seem to be a lot better quality wise than the new chameleon 2s. You get good motors more often.

Ok, here is my problem. When running my vehicle I notice that all the other types of cars (X-Rays, TC3s, Hara Editions) are able to turn on a dime easily while my vehicle wants to fight with me to give up traction. I have even gone to the unconvential thing of stiffening up the rear. I currently run an HPI Alpha Romeo body which doesn't give a lot of steering but I think its more than just that. I heard that the new offset hubs and arms will let you turn on a dime, is this true? Is there anything I can do right now to setup my car to get this effect in it currently?

Here is my current setup (I know, its odd)

1) stock pistons all around. 80 weight front 30 weight rear
2) Black springs rear, purple springs front
3) rear shocks on outer hole in shock tower, inner hole on arm
4) front shocks on outer hole
5) 0 degree all around
6) camber links 1 hole smaller on the rear (don't remember the exact position)
7) Plaids up front, purples in the rear
8) HPI Alpha Romeo Body

I am considering getting the PRP Shock towers and the new rear end components. Should I get the low roll center parts? will this allow me to transition better in the turns? If I can get this corrected I think I can make the A main as my driving is able, just need to get the car set so it turns faster. The new motor should give me the right amount of torque.

Thanks,

Cain

Doug Gaut

Thanks for the replys!!
Futureal, what inserts do you suggest for the Sorex tires and Take-off tires. I have experience with both brands and have noticed the same results as far as grip and tire wear goes.
Is the light grey carpet the ozite and the dark the dupont?

Turn Marshal

Does anyone know the new part#'s for the low roll blocks from the graphite+ kit?

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Cain-this is in response to a question on the previos page. Good quality titanium screws are about 40% lighter than steel screws but have about 66% of the strength of the tempered steel screws. Good quality aluminum screws are lighter still but only have about 33% of the strength of a steel screw. If you get a new GP you will likely not need to lighten the car further with lighter screws or you will be underweight. You don't mention whether you have kickup in you more recent post. Kickup will make the car push on power. Try removing it to make the rear end rotate more. Try 4 degree caster blocks (spindle carriers) instead of 2 degree kickup and 2 degree caster blocks.

I prefer the Losi shock towers over graphite plate shock towers as the Losi part is keyed to the chassis. A constant problem the other brands of cars have on our track is that they get out of tweak. Especially when they get a couple of months old. They will change in the middle of the race as the chassis parts move around. My year old Losi always stays the same because the chassis is one piece and the shocktowers are rigidly keyed to the chassis. These parts need only move a few thousandths of an inch in a race to affect the handling adversely.

Doug Gaut

John, the PRP towers utilize the two pins that are on the chassis to hold themselves firm. The holes in the towers are a slight bit smaller than the pins so there is no movement or float. They are very rigid and mine do not deflect at all.

Telengard

Has anybody seen a "red" screw kit for the Losi XXX-S? I've blue kits for the TC3 but that is all....

Thanks in advance!

Telengard

JitsuGuy

This is where I get all my aluminum screws... http://www.fastener-express.com/subcat.asp?0=218

You can get any color you want pretty much. Only thing is they don't come in kits for our cars. But if you look in your manual it tells you how many of each screw is in the kit.

Also, with the new low roll center blocks that Losi has developed, do you still have to grind on the chassis to get them to work and if so, what if I also got the new graphite chassis, would I still have to grind on the chassis then to get them to work?

Thanks,
Jits

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Cain- running that 80/30 oil combo has got to have that rear end too planted. Why such a huge difference front to rear?

futureal

On the carpet, I would ask whoever owns/runs the track which type it is, they should know. It could quite possibly be a different type, as I'm sure there are many. Those are just the two that I know.

The Take Off tires we are running out here come pre-mounted in sets of 4 (they are to be the control tire for the upcoming US Touring Car Champs at Trackside, so everybody is running them) so I have no insert help there. But a generally rule is that the softer the insert, the more grip you will get, but the faster the tire will wear. The reverse for the a harder insert. I think that in most cases, you can't go wrong with a medium insert, and then once you have a good set up you can fine-tune it with your insert choice. If you haven't already been running the same tire/insert/setup combo for a bit, you probably will not notice a big difference between a soft and a medium or a medium and a hard insert.

For brands, I usually run either HPI or Pit Shimizu inserts, since that's what's available around here. I can't imagine that the brand influences too much, but everybody seems to have a favorite.

skibum989

cmon guys, no help? once again, ill be running my xxx-s on a tight carpet track, with an Orion Core Stock. I run a 64 pitch 118T spur, cmon guys, all i need is some pinion size recommendations!

futureal

The new blocks should fit on the new (Graphite Plus) chassis and bumper without modification. The old chassis, I believe, still needs modification; I don't see how it couldn't.