Spec-R R1
#1666
Tech Addict
iTrader: (41)
Took whole steering linkage off, did the same thing. So its something else making the belt jumpy when at full throttle. My front spindle has the slightest wobble (its my second one, first one wobbled even more). Even though the belt is smooth as butter at full throttle with wheels straight, maybe the wobble gets amplified when wheels are at full turn somehow. The wheels are not touching anything at full turn, I have a few mm safety margin.
Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?
Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?
#1667
Tech Addict
Took whole steering linkage off, did the same thing. So its something else making the belt jumpy when at full throttle. My front spindle has the slightest wobble (its my second one, first one wobbled even more). Even though the belt is smooth as butter at full throttle with wheels straight, maybe the wobble gets amplified when wheels are at full turn somehow. The wheels are not touching anything at full turn, I have a few mm safety margin.
Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?
Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?
Without actually holding your car, it's hard to say where the problem may be.
#1669
Took whole steering linkage off, did the same thing. So its something else making the belt jumpy when at full throttle. My front spindle has the slightest wobble (its my second one, first one wobbled even more). Even though the belt is smooth as butter at full throttle with wheels straight, maybe the wobble gets amplified when wheels are at full turn somehow. The wheels are not touching anything at full turn, I have a few mm safety margin.
Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?
Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?
#1670
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Beyond that, though, some people will measure from the setup board to the center of the hinge pin or sometimes the center of the axle, using calipers. But then it can be harder to compare settings with other people.
-Mike
#1671
Tech Addict
This is also my first on-road car. I'm running a Novak Edge ESC, and an SMC 5000mAh 2-cell ($30.00 from SMC). Running the Pegasus Camaro body. Haven't had a chance to race it yet :P
#1672
Tech Addict
I put a gear diff in front with 500,000 wt. oil in it. Shocks have 30 wt in rear and 40 wt in front. Green and Silver Associated springs.
Other than that, stock. Stock positions on all links and shocks, etc...
I usually run around a 3.7 for VTA too. 96/49 I think.
My car has won the A-main here in Indy (with someone else driving it) against big dollar competition.
#1673
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
The thing you have to be careful of with just laying the chassis flat on a board is whether there are screws sticking out the bottom and making it sit crooked. Usually there's at least one that isn't totally flush.
Beyond that, though, some people will measure from the setup board to the center of the hinge pin or sometimes the center of the axle, using calipers. But then it can be harder to compare settings with other people.
-Mike
Beyond that, though, some people will measure from the setup board to the center of the hinge pin or sometimes the center of the axle, using calipers. But then it can be harder to compare settings with other people.
-Mike
I'm still waiting for the track to open. I'm very interested to see how it compares to VRC which has basically been my only onroad experience.
#1674
My VTA setup on my S1 is:
the spacers under all the arm mounts
450cst oil in all shocks
no sways
5 front 6 rear on droop blocks
stock setup for everything else
3.72 FDR Full motor timing
I adjust camber so the tires wear equal/flat
I also run DCJ's in the front, that really allows me to carry corner speed even though they add alittle weight
I also run the alum rear cvd bone option
'68 Camaro
car is wicked fast, most of the other top drivers run tc4 and it keeps up no problem and is more durable
the spacers under all the arm mounts
450cst oil in all shocks
no sways
5 front 6 rear on droop blocks
stock setup for everything else
3.72 FDR Full motor timing
I adjust camber so the tires wear equal/flat
I also run DCJ's in the front, that really allows me to carry corner speed even though they add alittle weight
I also run the alum rear cvd bone option
'68 Camaro
car is wicked fast, most of the other top drivers run tc4 and it keeps up no problem and is more durable
#1675
Tech Addict
#1676
The silicone oil you put in the shocks (and in the gear differential) has a specific thickness, or viscosity, measured in cSt (centistokes). Bigger numbers translates to thicker oil.
DCJs is short for Double Cardan Joints, which refers to drive shafts with two joints on them instead of just one. Shafts with two joints can handle bigger angles, and helps prevent the sideways movement that sometimes makes front wheels (and differential) wobble at high to full steering lock.
DCJs is short for Double Cardan Joints, which refers to drive shafts with two joints on them instead of just one. Shafts with two joints can handle bigger angles, and helps prevent the sideways movement that sometimes makes front wheels (and differential) wobble at high to full steering lock.
#1677
Tech Addict
The silicone oil you put in the shocks (and in the gear differential) has a specific thickness, or viscosity, measured in cSt (centistokes). Bigger numbers translates to thicker oil.
DCJs is short for Double Cardan Joints, which refers to drive shafts with two joints on them instead of just one. Shafts with two joints can handle bigger angles, and helps prevent the sideways movement that sometimes makes front wheels (and differential) wobble at high to full steering lock.
DCJs is short for Double Cardan Joints, which refers to drive shafts with two joints on them instead of just one. Shafts with two joints can handle bigger angles, and helps prevent the sideways movement that sometimes makes front wheels (and differential) wobble at high to full steering lock.
For shock oil, I've always heard of "30wt" (30-weight), "40wt", "70wt", etc. - the higher number being thicker in viscosity.
Any pics of these "DCJ" things?
#1678
If you check the bottom table, you can see that the viscosity varies significantly with temperature.
Here you can see the correlation between wt and cSt in Team Associated's oils: http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/liquids/
Finally, a stolen pic of a single jointed and a double jointed drive shaft - notice that the DCJ has two pivot pins:
#1679
Tech Addict
#1680
I always use Mugen or Xray fluids and they don't come in WT....
DCJ:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2767
Close to 450cst in WT:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2508
Also forgot to post I run 2000CST in the rear gear diff:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3392
DCJ:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2767
Close to 450cst in WT:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2508
Also forgot to post I run 2000CST in the rear gear diff:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3392