Xray XB4 thread
#8641
Tech Addict
iTrader: (30)
I've ordered the rear 1.6s and the entire bearing kit for the car as well.
Honestly I'm pretty happy with the stock Pistons in the front dampers. I'm going to leave those for now. However the rear has been too hard with the stock Pistons and has been tossing the back end up even with light weight oil and lighter springs. New Pistons will hopefully calm it down and make the rear more plush.
Honestly I'm pretty happy with the stock Pistons in the front dampers. I'm going to leave those for now. However the rear has been too hard with the stock Pistons and has been tossing the back end up even with light weight oil and lighter springs. New Pistons will hopefully calm it down and make the rear more plush.
#8642
You have made the right decision the car will feel a lot more plush and the rear end is dramatically calmed down, i personally was astonished at the difference, even when you hold them in your hand you can see the quality, and as some one mentioned earlier the fit is perfect and you don't get any blow by like the stock ones which is a shame cause XRAY stuff is usually top notch.
I hope that they would at least have parts like this as an option and TBH ditch the plastic tree piston for good. But most likely not, as many are pleased with them as is, and you get allot of option to choose from for a low cost production to add to a kit. That's why they will most likely always be there.
So, as an option part is the way to go I guess right?
Not always we would get CNC pistons as an 3rd party production for all types of cars out there either. The salvation is that most CNC pistons cross-fit anyways.
My two cents...
#8643
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Well, what's funny is that Xray never even offered up machined pistons as an upgrade, I mean, AE and TLR offer machined pistons for $13 for a set, it's a built in money maker!
Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new shock shaft coatings for an additional $100, that the next big thing for the XB4 will be completely upgraded shocks with machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.
Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new shock shaft coatings for an additional $100, that the next big thing for the XB4 will be completely upgraded shocks with machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.
Last edited by HeavyD99; 08-16-2015 at 08:00 AM.
#8644
Well, what's funny is that Xray never even offered up machined pistons as an upgrade, I mean, AE and TLR offer machined pistons for $13 for a set, it's a built in money maker!
Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new coatings for an additional $100 that the next big thing for the XB4 will be upgraded shocks, machined pistons, new coating shafts and machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.
Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new coatings for an additional $100 that the next big thing for the XB4 will be upgraded shocks, machined pistons, new coating shafts and machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.
#8645
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Xray shocks get dirty oil so fast!!!!.
Not a fan either
Doing 12 to 15 packs in one night on my buds back yard track prob doesnt help though....heres the track.
Watch "Drc late nite" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/7TPZWvezcPw
Not a fan either
Doing 12 to 15 packs in one night on my buds back yard track prob doesnt help though....heres the track.
Watch "Drc late nite" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/7TPZWvezcPw
Last edited by BDRMBULLY; 08-15-2015 at 07:15 PM.
#8646
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Xray shocks get dirty oil so fast!!!!.
Not a fan either
Doing 12 to 15 packs in one night on my buds back yard track prob doesnt help though....heres the track.
Watch "Drc late nite" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/7TPZWvezcPw
Not a fan either
Doing 12 to 15 packs in one night on my buds back yard track prob doesnt help though....heres the track.
Watch "Drc late nite" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/7TPZWvezcPw
I agree with you. Don't know how it comes get dirty easily shock oil. My tekno sct410.3 and run 10 times pack than my xray '15 but the shock oil still look fresh.
#8647
#8648
Well, what's funny is that Xray never even offered up machined pistons as an upgrade, I mean, AE and TLR offer machined pistons for $13 for a set, it's a built in money maker!
Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new shock shaft coatings for an additional $100, that the next big thing for the XB4 will be completely upgraded shocks with machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.
Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new shock shaft coatings for an additional $100, that the next big thing for the XB4 will be completely upgraded shocks with machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.
#8651
As the title says, I am in search of more in corner steering. My situation is that the initial turn in is good, but once the car is in the middle of the turn, it feels like I have to get off the throttle, wait for the car to rotate and then I can get back on the throttle for exiting the corner.
Basically, the car has a bit of hesitation or "stalling" in the middle of the corner. I have experimented with freeing up the rear end, but after trying different toe settings/track width options, I settled with what I started with prior to experimenting because the car felt the most natural for my driving style.
I am attaching a copy of my setup sheet and I run on medium to medium-high grip indoor clay.http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...2015110154.pdf**I made a mistake on the setup sheet,I am using the stock hubs of 9 degrees. Also run no top decks, but do run the optional graphite stiffeners, x brace, and floating servo mount.
The only change I have made since the setup sheet is to adjust the rear toe to 3 degrees. That helped the car rotate better.
- Would using the front hole on the steering rack give me more in corner steering? (I am currently using the rear hole)
- For those of you that have used the optional 4 hole steering rack (#362573), How did the different hole options affect in corner steering?
Any help is welcome. Thanks.
Basically, the car has a bit of hesitation or "stalling" in the middle of the corner. I have experimented with freeing up the rear end, but after trying different toe settings/track width options, I settled with what I started with prior to experimenting because the car felt the most natural for my driving style.
I am attaching a copy of my setup sheet and I run on medium to medium-high grip indoor clay.http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...2015110154.pdf**I made a mistake on the setup sheet,I am using the stock hubs of 9 degrees. Also run no top decks, but do run the optional graphite stiffeners, x brace, and floating servo mount.
The only change I have made since the setup sheet is to adjust the rear toe to 3 degrees. That helped the car rotate better.
- Would using the front hole on the steering rack give me more in corner steering? (I am currently using the rear hole)
- For those of you that have used the optional 4 hole steering rack (#362573), How did the different hole options affect in corner steering?
Any help is welcome. Thanks.
Take a look at Leon's setup he posted a couple posts before yours. I think if you keep your current shock setup maybe going down to 37.5/27.5 in oils and using his arm mount positions you should have plenty of steering. Also take off the front sway bar. Having really heavy center diff fluid doesn't help off power steering either. Maybe try 100k to 200k.
Freeski, I'd start with no sway-bar. It'll give you more steering, and make the steering feel more linear. If you still feel like you need more steering, move the front shocks in on the tower and the arm, and add another downstop shim. I'd always leave the rear toe at 3 degrees.
The forward hole would reduce the amount of ackerman in the steering. Meaning the inner front wheel would turn at a similar radius as the outside front wheel. For tight turns, more ackerman, the inner wheel turns sharper than the outside wheel, would have more overall steering and better turn in.
Here is the setup sheet of the setup that I am currently using. I know that the setup is track dependent and also depends on driving style, but the car has never felt better than this.http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1439940902CORRECTION: I DID use all chassis screws even though the setup sheet shows 3/4 used
By moving the front shock to the inner hole on the tower and also moving the front shock to the inner hole on the arm as well, it gave me the steering I was looking for and basically eliminated the mid corner stall I was experiencing. This was a great tip.
As suggested, I did try no front sway bar, but although the car had very linear steering, it didn't fit my driving style. For me, the car pushed a little more than I liked and I felt like I was better off with both front and rear sway bars being used. I started with stock sway bars (f/r/1.2), but the car felt a little twitchy. I then went to (f/r 1.1) and that calmed the car down and was better.
Because the car handled great with the 1.2 f/r sway bars(great rotation, but was twitchy), I decided to try the front arm graphite stiffeners in the hope that it would calm the steering down a bit, but still provide the awesome rotation while in the corner. I always thought of the graphite arm stiffeners as a carpet only option, but I can tell you from personal experience that if you want to take away a hair bit of steering and want to calm the car down from being too twitchy, this option worked great. NOTE: you can get the car to calm down by using the 1.1 f/r sway bar if you don't have access to the arm stiffeners
I did order the 4 hole aluminum steering rack made by xray. Like some have mentioned before, the holes on the 4 hole rack do not line up with the holes of the stock rack. The front hole of the 4 hole rack falls in between the front and rear hole of the stock rack. So the 4 hole rack offers four completely different hole locations than the stock rack provides.
Lastly, the shock oils I am using are a bit higher than I would normally use. The layout we currently have needs a little higher oil or else the chassis slaps hard in certain sections, but I have used AE 40wt in front and AE 32.5 wt in the rear with great success.
I hope this helps someone as much as you guys have helped me. Thanks.
Last edited by Freeski; 08-18-2015 at 07:24 PM.
#8652
#8653
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
my 15 with no top decks running chassis braces on low bite track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdHJKCi8aWU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdHJKCi8aWU
#8654
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
my 15 with no top decks running chassis braces on low bite track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdHJKCi8aWU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdHJKCi8aWU