6LikesSchumacher Mi4
02-20-2011, 09:06 AM
#2521
Tech Rookie
In reality you only need to change the fronts - the rears will last forever, even with the original black blades. Fronts get way more abuse due to the spool.
The biggest issue with the "race" version IMO are the shocks. It came with the old style Schumacher shocks (from 1997), which are nowhere near as good as the current ones, a real pain to build... although it is possible to get them equal and smooth, it will not happen if built by a beginner
The biggest issue with the "race" version IMO are the shocks. It came with the old style Schumacher shocks (from 1997), which are nowhere near as good as the current ones, a real pain to build... although it is possible to get them equal and smooth, it will not happen if built by a beginner
About the suspension. Why "race" version shocks are dificult to built? I have never built a kit before, but i have seen that Schumacher manual is very detailed.
02-21-2011, 01:28 PM
#2522
Tech Adept
Driveshafts - if you want to shell out the money, replace the front shafts with Mi4CX steel ones (U3823), but then you also need the CX spool (U3825). In all honesty, the stock shafts and blades are good enough, if you don't run mod and stay away from the boards, just stock up on the blades.
The problem with the old style shocks is that air gets trapped in the cap during building and later find it's way into the oil. Air in shock oil=no good. It's also difficult to get all shocks to have the same rebound.
02-23-2011, 07:01 PM
#2525
Spec R diff for Mi4-CX
its a tamiya 416 spec r gear diff machined narrower tamiya driveshafts and front spool pully.
roll bars are custom made and ball cups are std schumacher just drilled.
schumacher have a spec r gear diff made for the mi4cx and will be avalible very soon
well done martin!!!!!
roll bars are custom made and ball cups are std schumacher just drilled.
schumacher have a spec r gear diff made for the mi4cx and will be avalible very soon
well done martin!!!!!
Regards
Gary
02-24-2011, 09:08 PM
#2526
CX build review,
having owned the Mi3, 3.5, 4, 4lp, and now the 4cx, the build with this one (CX) is the first one I had issues with, one of the rear outter hinge pins was a tad off and i could not get the e-clip on, and one of the 43mm turnbuckles had bad threads and I could not get the ball cup to thread on, no worries as i had extras from before. however the improvement in the drive axles is awesome, i can now go lock to lock on the steering without any binding issues, hopping or vibration. worth upgrading your lp to cx parts if your on the fence about it. very happy with the outcome of this chassis.
I do have a question if anyone knows the answer, what are the extra holes in the chassis around the area of the steering servo for, no mention in the directions.
having owned the Mi3, 3.5, 4, 4lp, and now the 4cx, the build with this one (CX) is the first one I had issues with, one of the rear outter hinge pins was a tad off and i could not get the e-clip on, and one of the 43mm turnbuckles had bad threads and I could not get the ball cup to thread on, no worries as i had extras from before. however the improvement in the drive axles is awesome, i can now go lock to lock on the steering without any binding issues, hopping or vibration. worth upgrading your lp to cx parts if your on the fence about it. very happy with the outcome of this chassis.
I do have a question if anyone knows the answer, what are the extra holes in the chassis around the area of the steering servo for, no mention in the directions.
02-25-2011, 09:07 AM
#2529
I've run both the twin link and.standard steering on the lp so got that part figured out. In order to use the set of holes seems like the servo would almost touch the esc. Umm.. maybe move the rcvr to the front of the servo.... that's a thought.
02-26-2011, 01:19 AM
#2530
I have got the servo as close in to the belt as possible running the twin point steering, and there is zero room to mount the RX on top of it. I have instead mounted the RX on its edge between the ESC (RS) and the servo. Its a bit tight to get wires in and out of, but still possible.
03-01-2011, 07:11 AM
#2531
Tech Adept
There's just a certain window the geometry of a car should be in. And to be in that window which is front camberlinks exactly parallel to the wishbone, rear 0.5 lower on the inside, you have to run 2/1.5 if you run the rollcenter like I did or 2.5/2 if you run standard blocks OR 2.5/1.5 if the car is a bit too edgy to drive.
I pretty much run the setup VERY! similar to the setup I ran on the yokomo, as well as on Alex Stocker's HB.
There is a "basic setup" that seems to work on any car. Atleast this is what I found.
I pretty much run the setup VERY! similar to the setup I ran on the yokomo, as well as on Alex Stocker's HB.
There is a "basic setup" that seems to work on any car. Atleast this is what I found.
the droop question i feel is not answered yet, and it is of great interest for me aswell.
could you please explain what your droop settings would be for basic carpet setup??
on asphalt at ETS you had 6/5.2mm (add 1mm dropp for carpet) would mean 5/4.2mm or 7/6.2mm for carpet??
thx and good luck in warsaw
v
03-01-2011, 03:13 PM
#2532
4CX
Just got done this last weekend putting my CX together. Must say "simply awesome car". I think the quality of this car is bar far best ive ever experienced. Thanks Schumacher for having put quality into your cars. Thanks to all the guys that put together all the Youtube vids on how to setup and care for your cars. I really like what you guys are doing and are making a strong showing all over the world. Keep up the work. CA, Ill be picking your brain this year.....
03-02-2011, 12:55 AM
#2533
Tech Regular
hi martin,
the droop question i feel is not answered yet, and it is of great interest for me aswell.
could you please explain what your droop settings would be for basic carpet setup??
on asphalt at ETS you had 6/5.2mm (add 1mm dropp for carpet) would mean 5/4.2mm or 7/6.2mm for carpet??
thx and good luck in warsaw
v
the droop question i feel is not answered yet, and it is of great interest for me aswell.
could you please explain what your droop settings would be for basic carpet setup??
on asphalt at ETS you had 6/5.2mm (add 1mm dropp for carpet) would mean 5/4.2mm or 7/6.2mm for carpet??
thx and good luck in warsaw
v
03-02-2011, 02:55 AM
#2534
Tech Adept
thx for the answer! however, this does not sound logic to me for one reason. i beginn with a ride height of 5mm all around for example on a HIGH traction carpet.
if i set droop to 5/4mm (measured on 10mm blocks of course) then the chassis can move more forward and rearward, generating more grip. this resulted in some cases in griprolls on high traction carpet tracks. however, when i go in the other direction (leaving ride height unchanged) and change to droop 7/6mm the chassis cant move at all loosing grip and partly prevents grip rolls.
am i completely on the wrong path here??
if i set droop to 5/4mm (measured on 10mm blocks of course) then the chassis can move more forward and rearward, generating more grip. this resulted in some cases in griprolls on high traction carpet tracks. however, when i go in the other direction (leaving ride height unchanged) and change to droop 7/6mm the chassis cant move at all loosing grip and partly prevents grip rolls.
am i completely on the wrong path here??
03-02-2011, 04:02 AM
#2535
hi martin,
the droop question i feel is not answered yet, and it is of great interest for me aswell.
could you please explain what your droop settings would be for basic carpet setup??
on asphalt at ETS you had 6/5.2mm (add 1mm dropp for carpet) would mean 5/4.2mm or 7/6.2mm for carpet??
thx and good luck in warsaw
v
the droop question i feel is not answered yet, and it is of great interest for me aswell.
could you please explain what your droop settings would be for basic carpet setup??
on asphalt at ETS you had 6/5.2mm (add 1mm dropp for carpet) would mean 5/4.2mm or 7/6.2mm for carpet??
thx and good luck in warsaw
v
It depends how you are measuring. You have to go to a higher value for carpet if you are measuring with the blocks.
You will have to go to a lower value if you are "measuring above ride height"
HTH