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Schumacher Mi4

Old 02-20-2011, 09:06 AM
  #2521  
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Originally Posted by olev View Post
In reality you only need to change the fronts - the rears will last forever, even with the original black blades. Fronts get way more abuse due to the spool.

The biggest issue with the "race" version IMO are the shocks. It came with the old style Schumacher shocks (from 1997), which are nowhere near as good as the current ones, a real pain to build... although it is possible to get them equal and smooth, it will not happen if built by a beginner
Which front Driveshaft do you recomend and which blades? Please send part number.

About the suspension. Why "race" version shocks are dificult to built? I have never built a kit before, but i have seen that Schumacher manual is very detailed.
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Shumi View Post
Which front Driveshaft do you recomend and which blades? Please send part number.

About the suspension. Why "race" version shocks are dificult to built? I have never built a kit before, but i have seen that Schumacher manual is very detailed.
Blades - U1918 are the "old style" tan coloured blades, much better than the black ones.
Driveshafts - if you want to shell out the money, replace the front shafts with Mi4CX steel ones (U3823), but then you also need the CX spool (U3825). In all honesty, the stock shafts and blades are good enough, if you don't run mod and stay away from the boards, just stock up on the blades.
The problem with the old style shocks is that air gets trapped in the cap during building and later find it's way into the oil. Air in shock oil=no good. It's also difficult to get all shocks to have the same rebound.
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:06 PM
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Default Gear diff in a Mi4-CX

Hi all
Has anyone fitted a gear diff to there Mi4-CX?, is there one that would fit?.

Regards
Gary
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by GSM Storm View Post
Hi all
Has anyone fitted a gear diff to there Mi4-CX?, is there one that would fit?.

Regards
Gary
Go back and read the last 2-3 pages.

-Mike
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:01 PM
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Default Spec R diff for Mi4-CX

Originally Posted by timmay langdell View Post
its a tamiya 416 spec r gear diff machined narrower tamiya driveshafts and front spool pully.

roll bars are custom made and ball cups are std schumacher just drilled.

schumacher have a spec r gear diff made for the mi4cx and will be avalible very soon

well done martin!!!!!
Any more info on when the diff will be available.

Regards
Gary
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:08 PM
  #2526  
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CX build review,

having owned the Mi3, 3.5, 4, 4lp, and now the 4cx, the build with this one (CX) is the first one I had issues with, one of the rear outter hinge pins was a tad off and i could not get the e-clip on, and one of the 43mm turnbuckles had bad threads and I could not get the ball cup to thread on, no worries as i had extras from before. however the improvement in the drive axles is awesome, i can now go lock to lock on the steering without any binding issues, hopping or vibration. worth upgrading your lp to cx parts if your on the fence about it. very happy with the outcome of this chassis.

I do have a question if anyone knows the answer, what are the extra holes in the chassis around the area of the steering servo for, no mention in the directions.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
I do have a question if anyone knows the answer, what are the extra holes in the chassis around the area of the steering servo for, no mention in the directions.
Got pics? I haven't seen an actual CX, but the holes shown in the pictures in the manual are the same as the ones on the LP chassis, which are used for mounting the servo the other way around, and farther back, for the twin-point steering.

-Mike
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:11 AM
  #2528  
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
I do have a question if anyone knows the answer, what are the extra holes in the chassis around the area of the steering servo for, no mention in the directions.
They are for placements of different servos and also to help with the steering rod alignment depending on which steering system you intend to use (single or twin point).

Have a jiggle around with it and you will see what I mean.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Got pics? I haven't seen an actual CX, but the holes shown in the pictures in the manual are the same as the ones on the LP chassis, which are used for mounting the servo the other way around, and farther back, for the twin-point steering.

-Mike
Key word is extra. The lp has two sets of holes the cx has three and the extra set is not shown in the cx manual.

Originally Posted by jrxs-r View Post
They are for placements of different servos and also to help with the steering rod alignment depending on which steering system you intend to use (single or twin point).

Have a jiggle around with it and you will see what I mean.
I've run both the twin link and.standard steering on the lp so got that part figured out. In order to use the set of holes seems like the servo would almost touch the esc. Umm.. maybe move the rcvr to the front of the servo.... that's a thought.
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
I've run both the twin link and.standard steering on the lp so got that part figured out. In order to use the set of holes seems like the servo would almost touch the esc. Umm.. maybe move the rcvr to the front of the servo.... that's a thought.
I have got the servo as close in to the belt as possible running the twin point steering, and there is zero room to mount the RX on top of it. I have instead mounted the RX on its edge between the ESC (RS) and the servo. Its a bit tight to get wires in and out of, but still possible.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:11 AM
  #2531  
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Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
There's just a certain window the geometry of a car should be in. And to be in that window which is front camberlinks exactly parallel to the wishbone, rear 0.5 lower on the inside, you have to run 2/1.5 if you run the rollcenter like I did or 2.5/2 if you run standard blocks OR 2.5/1.5 if the car is a bit too edgy to drive.

I pretty much run the setup VERY! similar to the setup I ran on the yokomo, as well as on Alex Stocker's HB.
There is a "basic setup" that seems to work on any car. Atleast this is what I found.
hi martin,
the droop question i feel is not answered yet, and it is of great interest for me aswell.

could you please explain what your droop settings would be for basic carpet setup??

on asphalt at ETS you had 6/5.2mm (add 1mm dropp for carpet) would mean 5/4.2mm or 7/6.2mm for carpet??

thx and good luck in warsaw
v
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:13 PM
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Default 4CX

Just got done this last weekend putting my CX together. Must say "simply awesome car". I think the quality of this car is bar far best ive ever experienced. Thanks Schumacher for having put quality into your cars. Thanks to all the guys that put together all the Youtube vids on how to setup and care for your cars. I really like what you guys are doing and are making a strong showing all over the world. Keep up the work. CA, Ill be picking your brain this year.....
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:55 AM
  #2533  
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Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
hi martin,
the droop question i feel is not answered yet, and it is of great interest for me aswell.

could you please explain what your droop settings would be for basic carpet setup??

on asphalt at ETS you had 6/5.2mm (add 1mm dropp for carpet) would mean 5/4.2mm or 7/6.2mm for carpet??

thx and good luck in warsaw
v
It would be 5/4.2 for carpet.
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by scoyle View Post
It would be 5/4.2 for carpet.
thx for the answer! however, this does not sound logic to me for one reason. i beginn with a ride height of 5mm all around for example on a HIGH traction carpet.

if i set droop to 5/4mm (measured on 10mm blocks of course) then the chassis can move more forward and rearward, generating more grip. this resulted in some cases in griprolls on high traction carpet tracks. however, when i go in the other direction (leaving ride height unchanged) and change to droop 7/6mm the chassis cant move at all loosing grip and partly prevents grip rolls.

am i completely on the wrong path here??
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:02 AM
  #2535  
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Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
hi martin,
the droop question i feel is not answered yet, and it is of great interest for me aswell.

could you please explain what your droop settings would be for basic carpet setup??

on asphalt at ETS you had 6/5.2mm (add 1mm dropp for carpet) would mean 5/4.2mm or 7/6.2mm for carpet??

thx and good luck in warsaw
v
@vitomon:

It depends how you are measuring. You have to go to a higher value for carpet if you are measuring with the blocks.

You will have to go to a lower value if you are "measuring above ride height"
HTH
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