Losi XXX-S
#3886
Hi Guys!!
I'm pretty new to these forums so bear with me!!
I got my XXXs about a month ago now- very impressed!!
I used to run a TC3 but defected after seeing one going very quickly in the mod class during our summer series.
I will be running mine in the stock class with an Orion Chrome stock motor. Any tips I should know? I guess most of this would be covered already in the forum but thats a lot of reading to do
OBY, I'm sure I read that you fitted some of the Fasttrax parts to yours, how do you like em? I ordered the ally steering, carbon shock towers and the underbody in preparation for the forthcoming winter series at Wrexham.
As I already said I used to run a TC3, it suprised me somewhat to see Losi saying in the manual that moving the batteries forward gives more steering, I tried and it just understeered for Britain! Moved em back and its better what gives? I always thought more weight to the rear?
I also want some info for setting up for slippery conditions- snow, ice, rain, low temps etc for the winter series. I love racing in the winter because the weather is a great leveler when it comes to power output. Got the right tyres already- Pit wets 25mm for damp and 21mm's for when its pi$$ing down and Schumacher mini pins if it snows!
I have seen some guys running supposedly stock motors only a lap down on the mods any ideas on how they get so quick?
Thanks for any help,
Pete.
I got my XXXs about a month ago now- very impressed!!
I used to run a TC3 but defected after seeing one going very quickly in the mod class during our summer series.
I will be running mine in the stock class with an Orion Chrome stock motor. Any tips I should know? I guess most of this would be covered already in the forum but thats a lot of reading to do
OBY, I'm sure I read that you fitted some of the Fasttrax parts to yours, how do you like em? I ordered the ally steering, carbon shock towers and the underbody in preparation for the forthcoming winter series at Wrexham.
As I already said I used to run a TC3, it suprised me somewhat to see Losi saying in the manual that moving the batteries forward gives more steering, I tried and it just understeered for Britain! Moved em back and its better what gives? I always thought more weight to the rear?
I also want some info for setting up for slippery conditions- snow, ice, rain, low temps etc for the winter series. I love racing in the winter because the weather is a great leveler when it comes to power output. Got the right tyres already- Pit wets 25mm for damp and 21mm's for when its pi$$ing down and Schumacher mini pins if it snows!
I have seen some guys running supposedly stock motors only a lap down on the mods any ideas on how they get so quick?
Thanks for any help,
Pete.
#3887
Big Pete, I like the look of your tire selection but you might want to put some Take Off CS 22s in as well
I found moving the pack back gave more rear end grip, very useful in slipery conditions. I normally run mine at the back or split.
I have the Fastrax bellcranks (less slop) gear adaptor (stock gear is a bit noisy) and the underbody (essential )
OBY has a wet set-up a few pages back, I may post my low-grip set-up once it is a little more refined
P.S. No cricket talk
I found moving the pack back gave more rear end grip, very useful in slipery conditions. I normally run mine at the back or split.
I have the Fastrax bellcranks (less slop) gear adaptor (stock gear is a bit noisy) and the underbody (essential )
OBY has a wet set-up a few pages back, I may post my low-grip set-up once it is a little more refined
P.S. No cricket talk
#3888
Tech Addict
Originally posted by shrekair
how will it slow me down?
how will it slow me down?
I think he means how the turn in and the reatction of the car.
From Bk himself- less droop will decrease traction and gain stablilty. By decreasin the droop in the front the car will change direction faster but lose exit sterring
and I sent you a pm
#3889
new shock towers
Good news, our new carbon fiber shock towers may start shipping as early as next Thursday! Order both shock towers for $29.95!
These towers will be in full force next weekend at the OktoberFAST race(4-6th), the first race of the US Triple Crown Series!
Pictures of the prototype can be found here: http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/xxxstowers.html
(please note: The production towers have been strengthened since the prototypes but still look very close to the original designs shown in the graphic)
Thank you!
Ben, Team PRP
http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp
These towers will be in full force next weekend at the OktoberFAST race(4-6th), the first race of the US Triple Crown Series!
Pictures of the prototype can be found here: http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/xxxstowers.html
(please note: The production towers have been strengthened since the prototypes but still look very close to the original designs shown in the graphic)
Thank you!
Ben, Team PRP
http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp
#3890
Thanks LouisB, I forgot about the CS22's! I also run on HPI 15/40's so I should have enough!
The LHS had some doubts as to wether the underbody was out yet but from your reply I guess it is.
One other question, has anybody tried the Ride range of tyres? inputs please if you have!
Later,
Pete.
The LHS had some doubts as to wether the underbody was out yet but from your reply I guess it is.
One other question, has anybody tried the Ride range of tyres? inputs please if you have!
Later,
Pete.
#3891
I have seen ride tires on someone elses car, they last well but have very little grip and are not belted (at least not the ones I saw)
#3894
reddew-
i dont have any pics but i'll try to explain it. i set it in my car so when i look at my car from the side i can read GT7 normally. i 2-sided taped the switched to the front edge so its just inside the chassis wall, then i 2-sided taped the capacitor in the back next to the wires. the capacitor sits a little off the motor mount. the right side of my gt7 is flush w/ the rear chassis wall.
O ooo
l----------l l
l----------l l
l----------l l
l----------l l
l----l______/ - chassis wall
^switch
0 = capacitor
o = wire mounts
i dont have any pics but i'll try to explain it. i set it in my car so when i look at my car from the side i can read GT7 normally. i 2-sided taped the switched to the front edge so its just inside the chassis wall, then i 2-sided taped the capacitor in the back next to the wires. the capacitor sits a little off the motor mount. the right side of my gt7 is flush w/ the rear chassis wall.
O ooo
l----------l l
l----------l l
l----------l l
l----------l l
l----l______/ - chassis wall
^switch
0 = capacitor
o = wire mounts
Last edited by shrekair; 09-25-2002 at 10:23 PM.
#3895
i have used the ride tires. our track is really low grip and i ran 23's with soft inserts. the tires are belted and lasted well for club racing in stock class. also the shop owner said they best with sorex wheels. if they good enough for the world champ there good enough for me.
#3896
Tech Rookie
BELT & PLASTIC OUTDRIVES
Guys do these parts break easily? Does losi have steel or aluminum outdrives?
#3897
Ok guys, I think I'll stick with the tyres I know ie. the Take Off cs22's and 27's seeing how opinion is divided
Thanks again for the input
mmmm I dont think you will have problems with the plastic parts or the belt, I only broke a front wishbone on mine and that was after fitting the boards (there was a piece sticking out ) the CVD's on mine are steel but I will be changing them for ally ones to reduce the rotating mass.
Later,
Pete
Thanks again for the input
mmmm I dont think you will have problems with the plastic parts or the belt, I only broke a front wishbone on mine and that was after fitting the boards (there was a piece sticking out ) the CVD's on mine are steel but I will be changing them for ally ones to reduce the rotating mass.
Later,
Pete
Last edited by Big Pete; 09-26-2002 at 10:10 AM.
#3898
a newbie at my club broke an outdrive on the front after a hard hit, my diffs are still all original parts, maybe a bad batch.
my wet setup??? i'll need to look that up cos i lost my sheet!
the tracks are the same size, in area with slightly bigger straights than i normally run, but the corners and much longer and more boring...pain in the arse, hate tracks like that.
i've not known any losi's with a one way yet. i'm the only losi driver at my club (god knows why cos its a good car and i win with it a fair bit), and the losi drivers at nationals are all a bit funny...not that sociable, so, this forum is my only real source of info, and my own experience.
anyone got any of the new parts yet???? no sneaky peek reviews on the front carriers?
my wet setup??? i'll need to look that up cos i lost my sheet!
the tracks are the same size, in area with slightly bigger straights than i normally run, but the corners and much longer and more boring...pain in the arse, hate tracks like that.
i've not known any losi's with a one way yet. i'm the only losi driver at my club (god knows why cos its a good car and i win with it a fair bit), and the losi drivers at nationals are all a bit funny...not that sociable, so, this forum is my only real source of info, and my own experience.
anyone got any of the new parts yet???? no sneaky peek reviews on the front carriers?
#3899
I bought my XXX-S from a guy that crashed "lightly" and tore the right front corner off the car. The steel universal was bent and the outdrive broke in half. Based on my experience with the car, he must have had one helluva impact to do that damage. The only thing I have broken is the rear uprights and the front knuckle, but that's usually from a highspeed impact. I think the car is very durable.
#3900
if i can take an 11x1 in foam mod and do a 1260 triple axel toeloop lutz delux aerial and fly about 18 feet in the process bounce off a wall and land back on the track, and NOT BREAK, i'd say this is a pretty incredible car!