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Old 02-20-2007, 01:02 PM
  #7231  
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Originally Posted by xluis
For me, I would make these litles changes (in red), is posible the springs are litle soft,too.
yes springs are way too soft for the shock oil, you may want to drop to 35 to 40wt with gold and silver springs
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:52 PM
  #7232  
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Why is the oil too thick and the springs too soft? Im trying to learn and i want to be able to recognise what changes i have to make, so any advice will be a huge help guys. My learning curve is pretty steep at the mo .

Thanks!!!!!
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:09 PM
  #7233  
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First change droop to 6/5 then if that is better then change springs to pink/blue. Otherwise its a pretty solid setup. Maybe change the ackerman to 2mm with a spool. If you still feel that the rear is lacking in grip then raise the inner link im running 2mm at the moment but im running 3.5 at the front and i may raise it to 4mm. I am running a 1way though and iv not run a spool on carpet before.

HTH
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:58 PM
  #7234  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
yes springs are way too soft for the shock oil, you may want to drop to 35 to 40wt with gold and silver springs

i don't think the springs are too soft if you go too soft with oil tez the car will be under dampted though the fast sweepers and tend to break away you saw my cyclone on sunday i ran 2 @1.1 6owt front 5owt rear you may find your car over stears cos your using too much steering lock
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:00 PM
  #7235  
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just some advice about 64dp im thinking of changing to 64 what spurs and pinoins should i buy to give me ratios from 5.0 to 9.4
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:01 PM
  #7236  
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Originally Posted by Dan Hughes
First change droop to 6/5 then if that is better then change springs to pink/blue. Otherwise its a pretty solid setup. Maybe change the ackerman to 2mm with a spool. If you still feel that the rear is lacking in grip then raise the inner link im running 2mm at the moment but im running 3.5 at the front and i may raise it to 4mm. I am running a 1way though and iv not run a spool on carpet before.

HTH
Hi Dan

How will the change in droop change the car? If you raise the the inner link, does this increase the grip levels? I have found changing the ackerman to 2mm makes the steering far to aggresive for me. I do get on very well with the one way, but i thought i could try and give the car a lot more stick with the spool, gota try these things.

Thanks for the help.

Terry.
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:05 PM
  #7237  
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Originally Posted by stuey
i don't think the springs are too soft if you go too soft with oil tez the car will be under dampted though the fast sweepers and tend to break away you saw my cyclone on sunday i ran 2 @1.1 6owt front 5owt rear you may find your car over stears cos your using too much steering lock
Yeah stu, your car was by far the best car there, what the hell motor did you have in? I could try the steering lock thing.

Terry.
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:08 PM
  #7238  
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Originally Posted by stuey
just some advice about 64dp im thinking of changing to 64 what spurs and pinoins should i buy to give me ratios from 5.0 to 9.4
my car came with a 100 try that and go HERE and find more ratio's that you want
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:11 PM
  #7239  
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Tez you have pm.

When it comes to oil and spring combinations, the damping should always be adapted to the spring ratio. The suspension should never feel too 'springy' or too slow. Basicly pink/blue springs work well with 40wt oil 3x1.1mm pistons. Maybe up the oil to 45wt wen you change to gold/silver if you want to. Personally I don't think its that necessary, when going from pink/blue to gold/silver, to alter the oil.

As I said give that setup a try and see what you think, but start with 3mm under the links instead of 4mm stated on the sheet.

Cheers,

Phil.
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:28 PM
  #7240  
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what is the biggest and smallest 64dp spur that will go on the cyclone
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:30 PM
  #7241  
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110 or 112 I believe. I think the 110 and 112 might require some chassis modification though. I run a 108 right now with zero modification. I believe MarcosJ posted a while back on this so he will have a better idea.
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Old 02-20-2007, 04:39 PM
  #7242  
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With the CF plate - the largest stock is 108.

If you grind the plate a tiny bit to clear the spur, you can fit a 110 in without any issues. The spur will protrude from the bottom of the chassis, maybe 0.5mm. Negligible. It lasts well. It's rare to completely ground the chassis on that point so your spur won't be damaged..

With the metal heatsink plate - you can fit the 110 without grinding as it has more clearance.

I don't know about the 112, but that would surely stick out of the chassis a significant amount.

I run my 4.5 and 3.5 with the 110 and there aren't any issues with it.

If you want to run lower than 110/26 then you'll need to grind the motor mount to allow the motor to move backwards towards the spur. Only a little grinding is needed. Both the mounting screw holes need to be enlarged towards the back, but also the curved side of the mounting plate - this is so the motor has clearance once it's moved back. It's obvious when you have a look at the car..

Cheers!
(Thank to Marcos who pointed me in the right direction to start with..)
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:30 AM
  #7243  
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Originally Posted by Mhejjas
We'll race on a 24 hour endurance event this weekend. I've modified our Cyclone to be a bit more robust for this race









i think he means dont use many cyclone parts! (jkin)
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:43 AM
  #7244  
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Nice mod there Mhejjas. Care to share how you go about doing it? Xray's diff a direct fit onto the cyclone?
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:51 AM
  #7245  
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Originally Posted by diesel
Nice mod there Mhejjas. Care to share how you go about doing it? Xray's diff a direct fit onto the cyclone?
hi guys how long should your oneway spin for mine seems to spin for around 5 seconds and does a more free running oneway make for better lap times? cheers t.k
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