JB_catricala

iTrader: (1)

hey guys
I was just wondering what parts are needed to make the car more suitable for foam tire racing

Thanks in advance
JB

artwork

iTrader: (88)

JB-

This is what Andy was running in vegas for foam on the TC:

Chassis- http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/piw.p...=61285&lang=en
Top Deck- http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/piw.p...=61286&lang=en
Rear Deck- http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/piw.p...=61289&lang=en
Chassis Posts- http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/piw.p...=61283&lang=en
Wheel hexs- http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/piw.p...=72036&lang=en

Hope this helps...

edseb

Ah drift. I work with James and know what he was trying to do. For one, using that rear aluminum stiffens up the back and takes away some traction. By cutting the front, you will gain some flex and add a lot of twist to the front of the car. Since you run hard tires, you will never get the torsion on the chassis that you would from having traction so things like these mods would not only be counterproductive to a rubber race car, but would actually tune you in the wrong direction. For drifting it makes sense, but you have to remember the application, they don't translate very well to racing rubber touring cars.

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

I am pretty sure all the aluminum aftermarket diffs are for the old style. I would stick with the pom outdrives since they are pretty strong

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Don't use 3 racing lower bulkhead ,
because not fit !

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

HB offers an alum out drive for the new style diff.

edseb

The aluminum outdrives work fine but put more wear and tear on the diff and you will have to rebuild a little more often. The plastic ones work great and some pros have said they generate a little more traction (I'm yet to be convinced of this), but they are a little more fragile since they are plastic. Its a trade off you'll have to make.

Perry

iTrader: (20)

I'm getting ready to set a cyclone s up for GT class using a tamiya silver can spec motor. Any suggestions on gearing? Track will me tight with short straights, rubber tires, and I will most likely be using some ib4200's, 6 cell. Oh yeah this is my 1st TC so i'm totally clueless. Thanks

CSF0623

iTrader: (12)

Hey Carl do you mind sharing your BCR set-up here? I run at BCR once in a while and have seen your car on the track...and it's pretty dialed.

Tulsa TC3

I am getting ready to purchase a Worlds edition from a local pro class drover and was wondering some of your opinions on the car in general and things to watch for. I the 3.5mm chassis a good investment and how does the Worlds Edition compare to the new TC and what parts would be wise to use from the TC.
Any help is appreciated thanks

tomracing

only if you are running foam on carpet i guess otherwise stick to the std chassis

you would be advised to use the diff from the TC as it is way better then the older version.

peetiewonder

iTrader: (25)

my car is actually a drift application, thats interesting about the aluminum in teh rear, i may swap it for a fiberglass one i have, and maybe cut that in the center to again encourage cassis flex.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

I wonder why


RCMARKET : I just placed my first order with you... don't disappoint me

Thanks!
Paul F. (switzerland)

edseb

I've tried the aluminum heat sink one like you have, the fiberglass one and the 3 Racing carbon fiber one all back to back on asphalt and although subtle I found the fiberglass one to be the most consistent and stable. That was on tight track with medium traction (BCR), so there may be times when the other ones might work better, so at this point I still have them all in my pit box. Chassis flex is a way to add to your tuning but can be taken too far. A car that is too flexy will twist and load up like a rubber band and either snap back unpredictably or hold and cause tweak. You can experiment, but be very careful, you could have a car that does a lot of weird things out of turns after it tries to go back to its original shape, that's why we don't run fiberglass or plastic chassis (at least for the most part) and run at least a certain thickness. I run the stock chassis, and prefer to let the car's suspension do most of the dampening and traction duties. I personally don't like to run a thinner bottom or top or thicker, the stock one seems about right. BTW, I don't use the posts at the front of the car either. Now for drifting, things may be the opposite, the car will never twist or load up like it would with traction, so I'm sure a stiffer chassis set up (like carpet) would be better and more consistent, but you will have to test that yourself. Good luck.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Anyone running alum front knuckles? I'm thinking of going to them. I don't mind replacing them when they break but I'm tired of buying 2 packs just to get 1 pair. The rear hub are useless to me. Who also has the best price? I'm sure some will say hotbodiesonline but that's a dead horse around here so if it's found somewhere else please share the info. Thanks in advance.